Entry into Bolivia and Tupiza experience

---

Coca in cheek and my meanwhile 30kg backpack in tow (where am I accummulating this stuff from!), I cross (on foot) the border Argentina/Bolivia (to the first town called Villazon).
Immediately, without warning, we (I travelled with a Canadian lady called Maude) are greeted welcomely by sand dust, rubbish flying through the air, stinky smell, and about a million people. Utter chaos. Dogs are running through the streets stopping at every piece of rubbish in search for food, often bumping head on into our legs.
Maude and I make our way express to the Bolivian Bus Terminal. I couldn´t believe what I saw. Women with babies hanging from their backs, 10 year old boys ... just about every local, were attacking us from all sides, shouting ´Tupiza!´ (this is the town we want to get to), they were grabbing our arms, pulling us to a counter to purchase a ticket. A nightmare. We got out tickets and waited. As instructed by my guidebook, I went to the loo before the bus came (since the days of luxury are now gone - no more comfy seats, hello Chicken Buses). When I got to the toilet, the words ´oh my god´ sprang to mind. I´m in no way a princess - you know that ... but ... Nuff said.

So our 3pm bus left punctually at 3.40pm to Tupiza ´two pizza :-)´. The 3 hour ride was on a permanent dirt road, with red rocky mountains left and right. At one point I think the bus took some mountain with it. The road is bumpy (to say the least) and not for anyone with motion sickness.

The people in Villazon are poor to say the least. Ya, you sit in your offices wondering who to stab in the back next to get your next promotion. These people are seriously poor. Forget paved roads, supermarkets, even moderately comfortable buses. This is a real eye opener. The currency is 1 euro = 9.2 Bolivianos. The ticket cost 25 Bolivianos. You do the math.

I was fed up with cooking, so we went to a pizza place. The cook started a screaming match at his wife, and then proceeded to hitting her. (the Lonely Planet guidebook had said this is the best restaurant in town). .... okayyyy.

In the morning, I decided to book my onward journey, which will be a 4 day 4WD tour to see the sights of Bolivia. It is horrendously expensive, 1200 Bolivianos (135 euros) per person. Apparently you can do the same tour for half the price, in 3 days from Uyuni, but I heard first hand horror stories of the jeep drivers being drunk and/or falling asleep at the wheel, so I decidedly that fortunately I can afford the price it costs to live, so I booked the tour that had the best review.

See you in 4 days.


Goingons:
1. Not suffering from any altitude sickness, although some others in the group have permanent headaches and have difficulty breathing.
2. Took a photo of a traditional Bolivian woman, and she was very unimpressed with me. Bought some pears in return.
3. Oh yes - and this is a good one. I admired a baby on the street, and the mother asked me how many kids I have (not IF I have any, but HOW MANY). She said the average age to have children is 18-20, and by my age I should already have 3. Tja .... it would be nice... but alas the only thing I´m carrying right now is my backpack.

---

Photos

Bolivian Woman
Bolivian Women - those are their babies on their backs.

Comments

[Nigel and Margie in Australia]

Fascinating
From Colourful to Fasc(ary,too!)inating! Silvia, you've taken us into yet another place, and another culture. Take care, and enjoy at the same time. Your insightful commentary means we can be with you in spirit at least, and thank you again for sharing. Look forward to reading again in four days' time. X

[adrian]

mmm yummy bath houses
In the Capital of Ukraine, at the "resort" beach and wooded island in the center of the city river. At the Public Free toilets, the toilets (like seats in the ground) have long since overflowed, never is toilet paper free (here non existent) and already basically, you just go wherever you want on the floor - maybe aim near a wall ... It was so beyond gross, that somehow, it was enjoyeable and more relaxing ... yeah ... I am amazed by how well kept the people appear on the streets, but THIS is what they come from ... VERY interesting to hear about Bolivia - did you know the women wrestle? Hopefully that husband was toughing her up for her match after work