Within Sight of the Top of the World

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Here we are, within spitting distance of the so called "Top of the World", and we have internet access. Owing to it's expense in parts remote, this blog entry will be a bit truncated from those in the past. Fortunately, there isn't too much to cover as most of the trip so far has been quite smooth. Let's begin!

So, on Wednesday, Sara and I had the task of trying to wrap up all our loose ends at work and the final trip preparation, including picking up the rental car to drive and drop off at SFO. Not sure mine went quite as well as it could have (sorry Mik and Aaron), but Sara seems satisfied. After a hectic two hours of checking and rechecking our gear, we were off to the airport in plenty of time. Other than forgetting to refill the rental car and briefly gagging on the $52 for six gallons (and turning around to find the closest gas station), we checked in and waiting three hours for our plane. The flight to Hong Kong was uneventful, but 16 hours of uneventful is a bit unnerving. The Hong Kong stop over seemed like a good chance to stretch our legs, but we did not realize that we had exited security and then had a long line through security. We still had plenty of time, but on limited sleep we worried a bit too much.

A short flight later, we landed in Singapore and checking into the Crowne Plaza at the Changi Airport, which was quite nice and even had the Maryland-NC State basketball game on. While we both felt like going to sleep, we decided it would be best to hit the town and adjust to the 8 hour time difference. The public transit system is fast and easy, so we headed downtown to see the sights. Our lethargy kind of got the best of us, so all that we really accomplished was lunch. Then we attempted to find a way to a nature preserve for bird watching, and by the time we got there the park was closing for entry. We only had an hour, but it was nice to get away from the rush of the city. Since our flight was fairly early, we skipped dinner and went to bed early.

Next stop, Kathmandu! Since we were already at the airport, and nothing of import happened, we were off! I sat next to a Nepali engineer, who was returned from East Timor, and we had a long discussion on the pros and cons of both our countries. Flying in, we were able to see the Himalayan mountains in the distance, but were unable to distinguish peaks from 150 miles away. Exciting, nonetheless. We arrived at the airport in Kathmandu, and I was a bit surprised at the dilapidated conditions, both at and around the airport. Customs was painless, and we were soon out in the mess of taxi drivers and porters. Fortunately, our hostel helped out, with a person to greet us holding a sign with my name on it. Not bad for $10 a night! The taxi ride was a bit of an eye opener, but I didn't have any trouble seeing why there are so many accidents here. Rules of the road? None. We arrived safely and relaxed with a cup of tea on the rooftop with the hostel owner, enjoying the dry 80F weather, though the views were clouded with smog, probably similar to Los Angeles circa 1960. We decided to run a few errands and tried to pay for our jungle trek, but they were already closed for the day. Then we figured out that we needed to getting a trekking permit, and had to hunt for a trekking agency that could provide one. We stopped for internet, and fortunately the owner overheard us discussing our situation, and had a friend come over and take us to the appropriate place. After a buying a hat and being offered hash four or five times, we decided dinner was in order. Of course, our navigation skills were less than stellar as we spent an hour walking up and down the wrong street. After a cheap and very filling dinner, we went to bed early for yet another flight.

The streets were unrecognizable in the morning, deserted except for other trekkers such as ourselves headed to the airport. A taxi drove up right behind us, so that was easy enough. After an even crazier drive than our previous trip, and then being overcharge (and as Sara noticed, only having half his vision intact), we arrived at the airport. Everyone else had tickets already, but we were informed that we could get our tickets inside, so we went through the x-ray. Far from an orderly affair, people were pushing to get their packages through, so I put my bags though first, then helped Sara with hers. We went through the scanner and were patted down, only to find that my bag, containing the camera and lens, was missing. A frantic, though in my mind in vain, search began. One of the employees helped us search for it, but I had given up by this point. Then, our Nepali "friend" showed up with the bag, having found it stuck in the x-ray machine. Great relief all around! He helped with our tickets and then getting checked in. Then, of course, he asked for a tip. At the time, I thought nothing of it, but in hindsight, we both are of the opinion that there is a good chance it was a scam. At least we were through, only to find yet another wait. Fortunately, we ran into a group of Indians who were very friendly and talkative, and headed to Lukla as well. It helped take our mind off the fact that their flight from the day before, as well as all others, had been canceled due to weather. Eventually, we got the call, boarded a bus to the plane, and were soon to see the highest peaks out the left side of the plane, towering far above us. After about half an hour, Lukla came into view. This isn't your average airport, as the landing strip is likely the shortest in the world at about 600 feet on a 30 degree slope to help slow (and speed) the planes. The landing was surprisingly smooth, but since we could all see our the front cockpit in the 16 seat plane, we all had white knuckles. Sara and I hit the closest bakery for a danish and some simple sandwiches, then hit the trail. Finally! The hike was nice but nothing like what we will see later.

We arrived at Phakding at about 3pm, and were drawn in by an "ECO" lodge. They were all about the same, but had an enjoyable time and met back up with our Indian friends for tea as well. The night was a bit cold, but we both slept well. Since time is running short, I think I'll call it a day for this entry, two days short of where we are presently in Namche. I'll try and update from further along, but we aren't quite sure what the services will be like. Regardless, this morning we saw Everest! Until next time!

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Comments

[Bernadette Thomasy]

Good Connections
We enjoyed the first installment on your adventure to Nepal. My favorite part was the sign with Matt's name on it being held up by the hostel staff member. That is a picture worth a thousand words and it came with a $10-a-night hostel. That's service and a bargain. Having tea on the hostel roof sounded like a scene right out of Greg Mortenson's book, "Three Cups of Tea." Enjoy it all and stay safe. Love, Mom and Dad