India Thrice: Udaipur vs reality

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Lake of mirrors

Udaipur, 5:30 a.m.

From outside my window - which has a view of the Lake Palace Hotel glimmering on the moon fed lake - I can hear the sound of morning birds and Hindi wedding music, blaring in spite of the early (late?) hour. It is wedding season. On my ride into the old city of Udapiur, ranged around the lake, I drove pass two barats ( wedding processions) in full swing. People were dancing around the grooms, seated on horseback while bands played noisy clanging, clashing, squawking music. India is bursting with life.

I spent Friday morning in Jodhpur, and then to save time, had arranged to fly to Udaipur. I waited five hours in the airport for my plane. My time-saving plan was completely undermined by the Indian Airlines pilots’ lack of training to fly in fog. We were told that Delhi was fogged in. But when I called Delhi, Ajay’s Mom told me it was sunny, hot and clear.

Waiting for so many hours in Udaipur’s tiny airport was fairly excruciating, but the pain was largely relieved by talking to a lovely man from Bombay, a soil engineer who had worked in the U.S. and had traveled extensively. He was gentle, kind and thoughtful and we talked about big subjects such as our personal lives, faith, duty, fate and many other things, including the book he was reading, Maximum City by Sukhetu Mehta (one of my all-time favourite books). So, there in a nutshell is a typical Indian travel experience. It is a lesson in patience, acceptance (of the sublime and the ridiculous) and finding the positive in any given situation.

I can’t sleep because I am over-excited by India, and my heart was deeply stirred by my experiences in Jaisalmer. India affects people; it certainly affects me. And I never know how or when or what. I can look out my window and see the moon over the Lake Palace Hotel, it is now Valentine’s Day and I am in India’s most romantic city. I can feel my heart burning in my chest, and there seems to be much less separation between me and the world around me than there is when I am anywhere else but India.

This time, this third time in India, I am trying something new. I am traveling without a guidebook. It is really almost unheard of. Yesterday morning, I took an autorickshaw from my haveli hotel on the outskirts of Jodhpur into the old city and had the driver drop me at the clock tower, the well-known symbol of the centre of the old city. The Sardar market is spread out around it - an ancient bazaar still very actively selling fruit, clothes, saucepans, shoes, spices, saris and a dizzying array of other goods. I wandered for awhile, feeling the need for a cup of chai. A handsome young boy grabbed my hand and smiled at me, asking where I was from and a small man with a soft demeanor appeared and asked me what I was looking for. I said, a good restaurant. H e said, come this way, I will show you, and led me through some narrow winding lanes chock full of people, motorcycles, cows and shop after shop crammed with stuff. Finally, we came to a gleaming white Hindu temple and he took me inside. To my surprise, there was a beautiful new restaurant inside, the Nirvana, at the back and above the temple on the roof. The man bowed and left me, clearly not wanting anything, except to be helpful. The restaurant owner, Ajit, who had lived in London for 20 years, appeared and showed me around. I had a steaming pot of chai on the roof, under a shady awning, and enjoyed a spectacular view of the incredible Jodhpur fort and other glories of the Jodhpur skyline. I also had lunch at the restaurant and spent time in the shop downstairs. Then, Ajit’s helper called an autorickshaw for me and gave the driver directions back to my hotel. It was a wonderful experience. And all without a guidebook.

I am also trying very hard to “go with the flow” and keep my equanimity. I have been sorely tested, but so far, I have not succumbed to any of the tourist meltdowns I unfortunately allowed to get hold of me the first time I traveled extensively in India. I have been a bit irritated, but I caught myself and apologized. I am trying to take the advice from a book I am reading about the Bhagavad Gita that says equanimity is by far the best response to any given situation.

Jaisalmer 7 a.m.

I am writing from my lovely my desert-facing room at Fifu Rest House, in Jaisalmer. The sun is just coming up outside my window. It is casting a delicate light on the flat sandy earth. In the distance I can see the cooking fire of people who live in a thatched-roof round mud hut. Fifu is on the edge of town, and the tradtional rural life of the villagers is just outside the door. A man on a heavily laden camel just plodded slowly by, the camel's footfalls making a soft thudding sound. It's all very incredible and I love it here.

I stayed two days in Udaipur, enjoying the view from my small but comfortable haveli room, and wandering the crowded streets of the old city that are pushed up against the centre piece Lake Pichola and the Lake Palace Hotel.

When I was about 23 years old, I saw a picture of the Lake Palace in Udaipur and decided on the spot that I MUST see it (preferably on my honeymoon). Udaipur is considered the most romantic city in India. It was the capital of the Rajput kingdom of Mewar, and is graced with fabulous palaces, havelis, temples and gardens, all ranged around Lake Pichola. The Lake Palace, now the world-famous Lake Palace Hotel, sits in the middle. It may be the the second most photographed site in India (after the Taj Mahal of course).

On my first day I rented an audio guide and toured the City Palace. It is / was the main palace of the Mewar Maharani. The old part of it is now open to the public; the royal family still lives int he new part. In fact, as I was relaxing with a 200 rupee ice tea (very expensive!) at the palace cafe, a guide pointed out the prince walking by. I only glimpsed his pink shirt and upright posture.

The City Palace is a huge warren of interconnecting rooms and courtyards. Each successive ruler added to it. I took loads of pictures as each new room was or courtyard was completely different, and usually quite amazingly conceived or decorated. It still doesn't rank with the fort in Jodhpur, for me the architectural highlight of Rajasthan, but it is nevertheless very interesting. I especially loved the very large, white airy courtyard of the zenana, the women's quarters.

I spent the later afternoon having a long lunch at the Jagat Niwas Haveli Hotel. It is a gracious white haveli on the lake and it has one of the nicest restaurants in Udaipur. I had a window seat, and reclind on cushions and watched the afternoon sun sparkling on the lake as I ate and drank tea. The waters of the lake are very low, and the shoreline is exposed lake bottom covered in algae. The rains have not come to Rajasthan for two years and there is a water shortage.

In the evening, I went for a walk and came across a barat -- a wedding procession. The family of the groom was very noisily taking the groom, all dressed up and sitting on horse back, to the bride. It's wedding season, and there are weddings all over Udaipur and Jaisalmer (and everywhere else no doubt). I stood and watched the groom's face for about 10 or 15 minutes as the family danced around him in the street to a very loud traveling band. Young men lit firecrackers as motorcycles raced dangerously close by in the crowded lanes and street urchins held large chandelier lights, lighting up the street to daylight levels. I had a fascinating time watching the groom's very attractive young face change from solemn to smiling to frankly tired.

Afterwards, I went into the Jagdish Temple, which is about 400 years old, made of white marble, and covered in intricate carvings of dancers, animals, kama sutra poses and who knows what else. It is stunning. I sat for a long time with the women who were chanting and gave my Canada pin to a beautiful, open-faced young girl sitting near me. The women around me were delighted. They pulled me closer into their circle and I felt very calm and happy with them, chanting to Vishnu in this historic temple.

But I was restless in Udaipur, which I found confing after the wide open spaces of Jaisalmer, and also very commercial and touristy, and I abruptly changed my plans for the next day from arranging a tour of the royal gardens and the hilltop Monsoon Palace of Udaipur to a grueling 12-hour car ride back to Jaisalmer. What can I say? As beautiful and interesting as Udaipur was, my heart was still in Jaisalmer. I had left too soon.

The call of the desert overshadowed my visit in Udaipur. I appreciate Udaipur, but perhaps it was just not the right time for me to be there. I called this entry Lake of Mirrors because our emotions, state of mind and interpretations and projections colour our experiences of places. Another time, I might love Udaipur. But I don't feel like being a tourist in India; I don't enjoy it. I prefer to engage -- to study yoga or live with a family or volunteer or be part of something very special, such as the Fifu Guest House.

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Photos

Lake Palace Hotel 1
I took many pics of the hotel from my window, and couldn't decide which one to upload

moon over Lake Pichola
I woke early and took this photo from my hotel window

City Palace Hotel
I was surprised to see this beautiful angel on a wall in the palace

Lake Pichola
This was the scene directly across the lake from my hotel

Jagdish Temple
This 17th century temple, dedicated to Vishnu, was very near my hotel

City Palace Hotel
It was way too big to get into one shot; this is a small part of the exterior wall

City Palace Hotel
I lvoe these colour of orange and turquoise

Comments

[Kaushik]

Sensitive and compassionate
This piece reflects a tremendous understanding and patience for our country,India, through foreign eyes.Truly appreciated by an Indian.

[Kaushik]

Sensitive and compassionate
This piece reflects a tremendous understanding and patience for our country,India, through foreign eyes.Truly appreciated by an Indian.