India Thrice: Return of the native

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It's official. I have a new relationship with India (well, with Delhi, anyway). Arriving in this country for the third time really does feel completely different. The entire city seems to have slowed down (which is a bit of a bizarre statement, given Delhi's crowds and chaos!). Everything passes by me at a more leisurely rate and I am noticing more details and having more "moments." I think I am getting a fuller picture of life in Delhi, now that I am not so sucker-punched by all the noise and activity.

It's an interesting experience, and really wonderfully satisfying, to feel both at home and also fascinated here. I feel well and calm -- I have never felt so well in India! -- and am thus able to really notice things. Today I was watching a woman in the lane outside Ajay's building ironing 'al fresco.' The iron was a big, black ancient contraption, full of hot coals. I smiled at her and was comfortable enough to watch her, and really take in what she was doing and how she was doing it.

Also very happy to report that my jet lag seems to have already passed, after only three days, which is a bit miraculous. I think it's the sun. The first day we were here, Ajay and I sat on the expansive, white marble terrace, with his family, and had tea under the Indian sun. The warmth on my winter-pale skin felt like a life-giving elixir. Another miracle. Maybe that's why Indians seem happier than Canadians. They're not cold.

Since then, I've spent quite a lot of time on the terrace, usually with several family members, and often watching Jai, who is 1 1/2, run around or get pushed around on his little tricycle. Soon enough, it will be too hot to sit out there, except first thing in the morning a later at night. I have also been to two of my favourite markets (GK-1 N Block and Khan Market), the Panchshila Club (Ajay's old stomping grounds), a yoga class at Sivananda Yoga Centre, and a meeting of the Delhi Network, an expat group for women that meets every Tuesday morning at the Hyatt Regency Hotel.

Today I went on the Delhi Metro for the first time, and was impressed by how modern and efficient it is (except I had to take a rather long taxi ride to get to the closest stop: the South Delhi line isn't finished yet). However, while the technology is modern, it is nevertheless still an Indian experience to take the subway. One train I was on was almost completely filled with men, all of whom were staring at me (of course); and getting off at one stop, the crowd waiting started to push into the train before the passengers could embark. We had to very aggressively push our way through.

It was worth it, though, to get across the centre of Delhi in about 8 minutes -- as opposed to the 30-40 it would take in a taxi, breathing thick clouds of exhaust fumes. I went to New Delhi Railway Station to get my train tickets, and then to "CP" (Connaught Place) to eat lunch at my favourite place, Saravanna Bhavan. It's a South Indian chain restaurant that serves delicious dosas. Afterwards, I went to an Airtel office and finally had all the necessary pictures and documents to get a SIM card for my Indian-bought mobile phone. So, running two errands -- getting train tickets and a mobile phone -- took all day and all my energy. And in India, that would count as a VERY productive day.

As I was leaving the Airtel office, one of the countless men in CP who seem to stalk foreigners asked me where I was from. Toronto, I answered as I continued walking. A man who happened to be walking by at the same time said, "I am also from Toronto; from High Park." I said, I am also from High Park! And we fell easily to talking. He is originally from Delhi, also Punjabi (like Ajay and his family), and has lived in Toronto for 40 years, which I would say is most of his adult life. He took me into a shop and introduced me to an old friend -- someone he has known 50 years, who was also very friendly -- bought me a mango milkshake from Keventer's and then found a taxi for me, negotiated the rate and gave the driver exact directions. He was wonderful, a really lovely person, and I knew it the moment I met him.

Meeting him reminded me about the many serendipitous things that usually happen to me in India. I had forgotten. I always say India is a magical place -- if you are open to receiving her that way. I bought a beautiful book, called Love Delhi, which is a guide to the most wonderful things in Delhi. There is a quote inside by Jawarhal Nehru, first prime minister of India, that reads: There is no end to the adventures that we can have, if only we seek them with open eyes.

He could have been talking about travel in India. This is the way to do it, in my opinion. The more relaxed you are here, the more enjoyment you will have, that's for sure. You have to let India come to you. You can't make things happen here.

I will let the man I met in the photography shop in CP -- where I went to get my picture taken for the phone documentation -- have the last word in this blog entry. We were talking about India (everyone's favourite past time), and I told him that Canada has one thing over India, it is much mroe efficient. He laughed and said he loves the cumbersome bureaucracy of India -- or the "red-tapism," as he called it. "I wish there was more," he said. "Without it, I would lose the main source of humour in my life." He meant it. He also said the slowness of getting things done in India gives you time to think.

Personally, I think it also makes you more humble. And for most of us, that's not a bad thing ...

P.S. Sorry there are no picture for this entry. I have been spending the first few days recovering from an extremely tiring flight, running errands and mostly just relaxing with the family. Tomorrow, though, I am going for a guided walk through Nizamuddin, one of the oldest parts of Delhi, and to hear the Thursday evening Qwallis (sufi songs) they have been performing there for 750 years. I will bring my camera! Promise!

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Comments

[Sister Tinh Quang]

I'm very happy that you made it safely back to your second home. I'm looking forward to reading more of your adventures.