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Published: January 30th 2009
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From Vik
I can confirm that, following several bus journeys now, the train is most certainly a superior mode of transport here. The overnight bus to Jodhpur was a shaky experience to say the least. No snorers (not that we would have heard them behind our perspex wall in the roof of the bus) but the time (in hours) that we spent with our entire bodies lifted from the floor matches roughly the time we managed to spend on the floor. Our relief at arriving in Jodhpur quickly subsided when we realised that we were in the middle of nowhere (a popular place to position the bus stands here) and it was only 4am. Unfortunately Jodhpur did little to endear itself from then. The fort was pretty impressive, and the 'blueness' of the city made for great views, but the hostile edge that seemed to simmer just below the friendly veneer meant that we were pleased to move on.
Jaisalmer was an altogether better experience. Although it started with a well-planned operation (by the hotel staff in our former lodging) to net us at a specific hotel. The 'undercover agent' that engaged us in casual conversation on the bus had
the smile of the victor when we later ran into him in our 'chosen' place!! Hotel tricks aside, it was a nice place to spend some time. The camel trek into the desert was the undoubted highlight. Although I earned the dubious accolade of being the first person (in the guide's 10 year experience) to be thrown from a camel! Luckily the chosen site for the strop came on the first bit of sand that we had come to, so other then a few splendid bruises (which I'm really quite pleased with) I did okay. And the night spent under the stars was amazing (although pretty nippy!).
And now we're in a place called Bikaner. There's not much to recommend it. The hotel is good (we have treated ourselves to a comfy bed, hot water and a flushing toilet!) and there's a nice man in a sweet shop...that's about it. We headed out earlier to take a look at the temple with the 'sacred rats' (literally 1000's of them running about, just looking pretty rat-like rather than divine) and the bus ride was absolutely our worst journey so far. The low point being when the maniac-driver appeared to mow
down a dog (like the sheep in Wales - Dad, Glynn, Ian - I am hopeful it bounced back up!). So tonight we return to the trusty train, and head for Amritsar.
From Steve, Sorry no pics, as this puter has no usb slots..infact i think it is coal powered...maybe clockwork. Just to recover a few things Vik mentioned. The bus, it looked like it was in the original madmax film..and lost. The ride was like being in a washing machine, every time we hit a bump (or mountain as it felt) vik, me and the bags levitated, swapped places in mid air, then slammed into one of the walls before returning to the ground, national express, all is forgiven. Jodhpur's gentle blue haze of buildings when viewed from the fort was amazing, a stark difference to how it felt to be in the city. The city was very hectic, everywhere the rush of people and rickshaws, the constant screaming of horns bitting at our ears.. we retreated to the hotel much earlier than usual.
Then onto Jaisalmer, a beautiful sand castle, full of small alleys, bright clothing shops, and fantastic architecture, intricate carvings on almost every building.
The city of course was packed with a mix of tourists, cows and motorbikes, however it felt relaxed and friendly. The camel trek was great, my camel "Rocket", who did not quite live up to his name... plodder may have been more suitable, was a pleasent ride despite the enourmous pile of stuff strapped to his back. Vik was busy showing off her pacey stylish model "ATM", before coming a cropper, then was much slower.. at which point the tortoise (rocket) proved his worth. The camels were at there best when they saw wild camels, at which point they produced loads of bass noises, broke wind really loudly, then sneezed (bit like some of the people in this very cheap internet cafe). Our small group contained a number of french, who when it came to sunset produced and shared with us a fantastic Bordeaux wine and sausisson sausage!!!Then a night under the stars.
Now in Bikener, not quite as pretty although some really good pieces of architecture, which are mostly run down and abandoned. The spice market's smells were almost overpowering, the stalls selling nuts fascinating with their variety. Next onwards for Amritsar, the golden temple, and a return to the colour green.
Ps Iain, the Royal enfield is growing on me (sorry Andy), Bex I think even you would struggle with number bags and shoes for sale.
Dylan, I think you would love the Camels, even if they smell more than your mums horse.
PPS. Jill, I still managed to resist the sock and sandal fashion, even on a second visiting!! Vik x
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Ian
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India - it doesn't sound "nice"
Just re-reading your blogs and I was laughing as you don't make India sound "nice". Enjoyable, to some, yes. Intersting, definitely - but not nice. Funny! have fun though. Really, I just anted to comment as no one else had........