Bigger Than Ben


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Published: December 26th 2008
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The last three weeks had been pretty slovenly for us, majoritively spent sat in Spanish classes or in front of the laptop planning, so we were ready for a decent hike to blow the cobwebs away. Upon first look volcano Maderas didn’t appear all that sizable. However, after later inspection we found it to be bigger than Ben Nevis the tallest peak in the British Isles. So that was probably why it was a little more demanding than expected even for us walkers who had grown used to lugging 14-plus kilos 25 kilometres-a-day across Spain a few months earlier.

We quickly encountered some howler monkeys as we began to move up the cone through the dry tropical forest. Our guide had perfected his monkey call and even though he was struggling with a cold it had not impaired his communication abilities. The monkeys up for their morning food rounds were in good voice. The second group of monkeys we met just before we left the dry for the wet forest were having a really good chat and friendly with it. We’re even certain that one waved at us; twice.

It was clear from early on that our bodies had been lulled into a false sense of security following some lazy weeks. They soon got into it although the days to follow would likely be painful. Wet forest turned into cloud forest although we weren’t totally sure when as heavy cloud cover had meant we’d been denied views from quite early on. Twenty minutes from the top our guide (who had evidently set his heart on getting back for some early afternoon TV based on his rather punishing pace setting) reliably informed us that this was the most difficult route up. We supposed he was trying to give us a moral boost but unfortunately there was no getting around the fact that we still had to get back down. After nearly three and a half hours of hauling ourselves up muddy paths, shimmying under tree trunks and hop scotching the endless roots we found the rim. Zero view but we where very happy to get there and the inquisitive mouse who got to nibble on the crumbs of our sarnies was as well.



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30th December 2008

Great post Xmas reading
Hi Steve and Gina, just caught up with the last 5 bloggs which Xmas and family had kept me away from. Great to see a slice of Central American life. Looking forward to the costa experience. Keep safe. Love Mum

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