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Published: December 20th 2008
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Lots of Pictures today - I couldn't narrow them down!
The backpackers where I am staying is in the Northern Drakensberg Mountains, right at the base of a spot called the Ampitheatre, an 8 kilometre stretch of cliff and canyon. Today I signed up for a tour that would take me to the top of the Ampitheatre.
I was hesitant to sign up out of concern for what the hike would be like (because of my fear of heights and my current lack of energy as I’ve been feeling unwell). Reception assured me that it was an easy walk, we drove most of the way up, young children and elderly people do it, I’d have no problem. It would be a nice walk. That description was a serious under-exaggeration. While yes, we did drive a long way up, we still walked 3 hours up and 3 hours back, 12 ½ kilometres each way and there was major climbing involved. Not at all what I felt like doing. But I did it.
We had almost a 2 hour drive to start. The drive was beautiful. The massive jade coloured mountains and the vast green plains are truly gorgeous. We
passed by multiple groups of baboons gathered alongside the highway. And we had a rare sighting - a Cape Vulture. This area is home to four different types of vultures, but only due to conservation efforts. In 1990, there were only 3 vultures in the area. Farmers would poison animal carcasses to ill off predators such as hyenas, but vultures were also dying from the poison. Electric fences were also problems. Starting in 1990, carcasses that would otherwise just rot are tested to be sure they’re free of poison and are then brought from around the country and left in this area. They are set out on the fields and hillsides for the vultures to safely feed. Today there are about 500 vultures living in the area due to this project. South Africa really does some great conservation work.
After the first hour’s drive, we reached a town called Qwaqwa. The town probably covers about the same amount of land as Dunnville, but the population is 1 million! The township area of Qwaqwa is a success story compared to most townships in the country. The hill is lined with rows of government funded homes, all in good condition (rather
than the scrap piece homes you see most places). All are hooked up to electricity and residents can pay-as-you-go, so they only pay for what they really need. Unemployment is really low. The town’s schools give bursaries to the top five students to attend the University in town to learn business; upon graduating, these students start businesses in town to create work. The town has a great amount of industry and businesses are thriving. It seems to be a place that gives proof that with support and proper set-up, poverty can be fought.
Soon after we passed through Qwaqwa, we began snaking our way up the mountains. About another 40 minutes later, we reached the car park. Even from there, the view was beautiful. In this area, the mountains are on a provincial border. And at the starting point of our hike, we could look down one side into the province of KwaZulu-Natal and down the other into the Free State. Then rising above us was Sentinel Peak.
The day alternated between beautifully sunny and then overcast. Under the sun, all the mountains and lowlands were such a bright green, it nearly shimmered. Under cloudy skies, the whole
area took on a mysterious feel. We were so high up (started at 2600+ metres and went as high as 3171 metres), we could watch the cloud shadows move across the land. Always, it was the sort of setting for fairytales and myths.
For the first hour or so of our walk, we snaked our way up Sentinel Peak. The steady incline was tiring and the high altitude made me feel like I could never quite get a full breath. Sometime in our second hour, we rounded Sentinel Peak and travelled along the back side of the ampitheatre. It was a bit easier going here as it was only a slight incline. But then, the final stretch was literally a straight-up climb.
Mountain climbing I know is scaling a cliff with equipment. This was not that. But it was mountain climbing. Hands and knees, pushing and climbing and crawling up the cliff, one rock at a time. A few times, the rock I’d step on wouldn’t be solid and I’d stumble and be certain I was a goner. It was exhausting. And for me, it was very scary. My big fear of falling had a grip on me
and the whole way up, I was ever aware how easily I could fall. It was not fun. It was not what I’d wanted in my day. The Leadership Director in me kept thinking of all sorts of cliches, all sorts of lessons, all of the challenges I’ve pushes youth through to get them to face fears, push themselves and learn. And in that moment, I had a hard time caring about any of it. I was in no mood to create a lesson for myself. I just wanted that awful climb to be over.
Then, when it finally was, there at the top, irony greeted me . . . When I was Leadership Director, we did nightwalks and on the nightwalks, we’d pass around a rock and set goals for ourselves. Then we’d leave the rock behind, in a pile with rocks from every other nightwalk. I’d talk about where we’d come from and where we’re going and compare it to people who climb mountains and leave rocks behind at the top to mark their climb . . . Right there at the end of my climb to the top of the ampitheatre, was just such a pile
of rocks. I’m still working at teaching myself, but I know I was great at teaching others. I miss teaching leadership skills. A lot.
My emotional moment there changed to one of wonder as I walked across the top of the mountain and looked out across the ampitheatre. There aren’t words to describe. I wanted people there to share it with me, because I’d never do justice to explain it.
We had our picnic lunch there, looking out across the mountains and valleys. I took lots of pictures and just sat there, taking it in.
After lunch, we hiked along the top of the mountain and over to the Tugela Falls - the second highest waterfall in the world. (Highest because of the height it flows from, not how tall it is.) The stream to the falls was nice, but I wasn’t impressed with the falls. When sitting there looking out over the ampitheatre, they just couldn’t compare. It is so stunningly beautiful up there . . . it’s moving. I spent some time just sitting having a quiet moment. Namaste.
After sometime at the top of the falls., it was time to cross back over
the mountain and begin our decent. Thunder was rumbling in the distance and we didn’t care to get caught in rain if we could prevent it. We took a different way down from the top, and this one was even more terrifying . . . Two different chain ladders going straight down the rock cliff. I have faced and conquered this falling phobia of mine again and again and again. It does not get any easier! There were some tears as I waited my turn. Then lots of self-directed anger for the tears. I was visibly shaking. Our guide, Zee, was very kind and patiently aided me in my slow and very shaky descent. Everybody clapped when I reached the end of the ladder. Someone asked if I was okay. “Embarrassed,” I said. “But okay.”
The rest of the way down was generally easy. The biggest challenge was our exhaustion. At that point, you’re so tired, you want to walk back on auto-pilot. Except you’re walking down a mountain and as soon as you loose focus, you stumble. So there were some stumbles. After about two hours of walking, we finally reached the car park . . . For
our two hour drive . . .
When we reached the backpackers, it had been a 12 hour journey. Thus, I am now beyond exhausted and am headed for bed. Another tour is booked for the morning. The ampitheatre exhausted me.
But wow, was it ever gorgeous up there.
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stef
non-member comment
fear
I know all too well what it feels like to try and talk yourself out of a fear, and feeling like there is no way over it! Good for you for facing it, Jeanette. It is the only way to not let fear get in the way of life!!