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Published: November 20th 2008
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Another incredible day. Again though, I am exhausted!
Today I was in Knysna, a town located along the Garden Route of the East Coast. The town is built on the Knysna Lagoon, a body of water that is connected to a river to the north, and the Indian Ocean to the south. The huge lagoon opens to the ocean at a spot called The Heads: two cliffs of rock on either side. It is known as the most dangerous river opening in the world because of its rocks and sandbars - most of which are hidden. Today, I did a cruise on the lagoon, out to The Heads and a nature hike.
It was an easy 10 minute walk from my hostel to the waterfront. I checked in, sat in the sunshine, then boarded “The Spirit of Knysna”, the small riverboat that would take us across the lagoon. “Us” were mostly seniors on bus torus. There were few people under 60 and I think no one under 40 except me and one teenage girl with her parents. (It was like some cruise excursions I’ve been on!) Still, some of these seniors were adventurers - two men (ages 71 and
73) had the day before done the highest bridge bungee jump in the world! (It’s near Knysna and a popular backpacker stop - though I’m not doing it.) I guess today’s tour wasn’t adventurous enough for most backpackers, but I loved it!
It took about half and hour to cross the lagoon. Normally the lagoon is as clear as a swimming pool, but heavy rains have washed a lot of mud and dirt down from the mountains, so it was rather murky. We couldn’t see through the water, but we passed by the Knysna oyster farms (Knysna is known for their oysters - though the guide told us today that they don’t originate there; they came from South America!). At various times, many ocean animals have been seen in the lagoon - seals, dolphins, whales, sharks - but we didn’t see any today. The lagoon is also home to the Knysna Seahorse which is only found in this area. Our guide told us all about the seahorse: A male sees a female it likes and shows off for her; if she likes him, they become life mates. He has a pouch on his front that he will open and
she puts eggs in it; he fertilizes them and is then pregnant! 21 days later, the male seahorse goes into labour and births about 200 babies! The babies take care of themselves straight away and the parents breed again immediately. Once they become mates, the male seahorse spends the rest of his life pregnant!
We crossed the lagoon to the Western Peninsula, which is a privately owned nature reserve called Featherbed Reserve. There, we first boarded trailers that took us up to the top of the mountain. Such beautiful views all the way up! Back down to the lagoon, onto its islands and across to Knysna. At the top, we stopped at a viewpoint over The Heads, the opening of the lagoon, up the East Coast and out to the Indian Ocean. The Indian Ocean brings ideas of the beautiful and exotic, so I was quite delighted to finally really see it and just take it in.
We drove to the most southern tip of the peninsula and then it was hiking time. We had a 2+ kilometre hike down and along the peninsula. Most of it was through indigenous forest which was very beautiful. It felt majestic
- like fairies and mystical creatures could appear at any time. Then there’d be a parting of the trees and a stunning view of the cliffs, the opposite peninsula, the lagoon, the ocean . . .
Partway down the cliff, we could walk up and out onto Needle Point Rock - the part of rock that sticks farthest out into the lagoon opening. Out there were the most incredible views up the coast and out across the ocean. Truly gorgeous.
Continually, I just kept telling myself that it couldn’t possibly get more beautiful. Then there was another detour off the main path - this time down the cliff to caves opening to the water. Right before this turn, I crossed a bridge, which turned out to be a naturally formed bridge, part of the caves! It was unbelievable down there, the way the rocks just opened up to the water. Words aren’t enough.
The last kilometre of the walk was an easy path following the bottom of the mountain along the water. With these daily doses of long walks amongst stunning beauty, I’m feeling more at peace than I have in a very long time!
When
we reached back at the jetty, where the boat had dropped us, it was lunchtime - a delicious buffet where I had a feast! Even with my allergies, there was so much that I could eat and there were so many delicacies: mussles, calamari, kiwi, strawberries, chocolate . . . and so much more! The restaurant was on a deck above the water, with trees growing right up through it!
And then it was time to cruise back across the lagoon. Back in Knysna, I explored the waterfront a bit and completed a mission: to see a Knysna Seahorse! I’d read that one of the market restaurants had an aquarium tank with seashorses. So I hunted it down, asked the hosts at the door, then found my seahorse friends!
I’d heard so much about the Garden Route in South Africa; I’m happy that it really is so incredible and beautiful. One more stop coming up . . .
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Sarah Willett
LOVE the photos. Also LOVE that the man in preggers for once. And lifelong mates - cute.