A night to remember

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On the 26th December 2005, we arrived at Phi Phi Don island where the year before, on that very day, the Tsunami struck and took away so much life.

Boxing Day on the island was set aside as a memorial to all those who died. I remember so clearly the Christmas before, watching in disbelief as the first pictures from the affected areas started to be broadcast. Every few moments the death toll jumped as the true scale of the disaster emerged.

Over 5,000 lives were lost in Thailand. Around 3,000 are still declared 'missing'.

Here in Phi Phi much has been done to repair the ruined businesses that were destroyed. Tourism keeps the island afloat and many hotels, guesthouses, restaurants and bars are back on their feet, though a 'before and after' map shows that some streets have a third or fewer businesses than previously. Some restaurants have photos on the wall which show the damage. Where we dined recently, the building withstood the force, the waterline left behind was at least 9 feet high. Usually the whole building just disappeared leaving only a tiled floor or some concrete supports as evidence of what previously stood. One hotel where many staff and guests died was the Phi Phi Princess. Right on the beach, it took the full force of the raw power of the tsunami.

There are several charities working on the island. The Children of Phi Phi is one. The school was destroyed that day, luckily it was a Sunday and no children were in class. However the poverty that followed the wave led to many children being withdrawn from school - parents could no longer afford the fees when faced with more pressing basic needs. On this boxing day, a group of happy children decorate t-shirts, each a unique work of art, which are then sold to fundraise for the charity. The money goes towards scholarships for pupils that otherwise could not afford an education. It is heartening to see such practical examples of recovery.

But the mood today is one of rememberance for those who were lost. It is hard to be here. Such random luck who lived and who died. There are many survivors who have returned, and many relatives of those who didn't. People openly weep, both tourists and Thais. One older British man was telling the table next to us that he watched a young woman clinging onto a balcony as the water swelled. He described the moment when she couldn't hold on any longer and was carried away by the sea. There is a memorial garden here. Fresh orchids and hand written cards abound. One card is written to a much loved and much missed sister, it reads 'Where are you? Every day I think of you. It doesn't get any easier'. One photo is of a little girl, only 5 or 6 years old. Someone has left her a bright pink mermaid doll.

In the evening there is a programme of events on a stage that backs onto the ocean. The school children from Phi Phi perform, loudly and largely out of tune but providing a much needed lift of spirits to the audience.

At 8 o'clock a candle ceremony is scheduled. Steve and I return to the beach for this, and looking up into the sky there is an unusually bright constellation. But this is a starless night. The lights are from floating candle lanterns that have been set adrift by the people on the sand. We move closer and watch as the thin rice paper of the lanterns are unfolded and the candle at the base lit. Groups of three of four people gather round each one, holding it gently aloft until the heat from the flame fills the lantern. Once the lantern starts to rise, the bearers let it go as it makes its journey heavenwards. Some are laughing and gay. Some wave. Some murmur goodbyes. Many are crying. 5,000 such lanterns are set free tonight across Thailand, one for every soul lost. It is a magical and deeply sad night. One for counting your blessings.

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Comments

[helen lord]

Amazing photos. How moving to be there a year on. The lanterns are a nice way to remember people. xxx

[Prophet Zarquon]

Paper Lantern instruction?
Any idea where I could find instructions or schematics on how to create these rice paper lanterns? Anyone who knows how they are made, or might be of assistance finding out, please EMail me at crazyfreakinweirdo (at) yahoo.com