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Published: September 20th 2008
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So I just got back from having coffee at a small coffee shop near where I live. It's called the Elephant House and it's famous, as it says in the picture for being the birthplace of Harry Potter. HARRY POTTER! This is one of the coffeehouses and cafes where JK Rowling wrote the first manuscript. She wrote in these cheerful places because at the time she couldn't afford to keep the heat on in her flat during the day. Now of course she can afford it, but the city still memorializes the places where she first wrote. I'll certainly be going back, if for no other reason than that the coffee is good!
Lindsay (my flatmate) and I spent the day wandering the city. It was a beautiful warm day (made it to 60 degrees!) Prince's Street Gardens were beautiful and I insisted that we stop and look at the flower clock which is like nothing else I've seen. The Gardens themselves are a kind of Central Park, lovely and green with picturesqe paths and lovely roses. They weren't always like this, in fact hundreds of years ago they were a lake into which the sewage and rubbish of the
city streamed. I still remember one tourguide telling us how "och, aye, they'd throw everything in there, crap, food scraps, dead rats, witches.." True story. Its where they did the witch hunts. Hard to believe now, in such a gorgeous setting. We also happened to be passing at the exact right moment to hear the cannon fired off from the castle, which they do every day at one. It had more smoke than noise, but was impressive nonetheless.
Our intended destination on our wandering was an outdoor market on Castle street. Lindsay had stumbled upon it the day before, and loved it so much that she wanted to go back. They had all kinds of food cooked in massive pans and in all of the places you could see the chefs chopping the vegetables to be put directly into the food. The baked goods tempted us beyond reason, not only at the bakery tent, but at the danish pancake, the fried doughnut stand (like a funnel cake but round and puffy and dipped in warm chocolate) and the creperie. And that's just the ready to eat food. They also had stands dedicated to dried fruit and nuts, fresh ground
Coolest seat ever.
JK Rowling could easily have sat here. How cool is that? spices, olives, and my favorite, a stand filled with all kinds of candy. YUM! I just had to buy some fudge. I wanted to buy everything, it looked like something out of a Roald Dahl book. They also sold scarves, flowers, shoes and everything in between. I can't wait for it to come back in November!
This week was a fun one. I went to my first Scottish Ceildh (pronounced Kay-lee). It was hosted by the New Scottish Dancers (a society that I am SO joining). Rachel was kind enough to come with me, and seemed to have as good of a time as I did, though she wasn't quite as giddy as I was: "Oh my god!!! This is just too AMAZING!" She told me about how they learned many of these dances during school, as the traditional Christmas dance is a ceildh. It was set in the stunningly beautiful McEwan Hall (see last blog for pictures) and there were well over a hundred people there all dancing. We did all kinds of dancing, some in partners, circles, lines, etc. What I found so incredible was that I went there thinking that this would be very new, only
Edinburgh in Copper
This was just off Princes Street to see them doing square dancing, contra dancing, and even clogging. The calling was different but it was so cool to see the origination of the American dances being so well preserved. Scottish country dancing had become square dancing, contra dancing is a mesh of the french court dances and also the scottish ceildh dancing, and clogging came directly from scottish step. I was thrilled to actually know some of the moves coming in, and we danced all the way through, to the music of a live band and the calling of one of the members of the society. I loved "the flying scotsman" where we basically formed lines and ran up and down the room.
The second to last song was called "strip the willow" which was the most dizzying dance ever. Rachel kind of laughed when she heard it announced, and said "no wonder they saved this for last" We were formed into lines of at least 50 some couples, girls on one side, guys on the other. The couple at the top of the line began by swinging each other, then started down the line the first guy swinging with his partner then the next girl,
Flags
You can't tell here, but the Scottish Flag is flying at the same hight as the Union Jack atop the Art Museum. I love this country. then his partner again while the girl did the same thing on down the guys side. It wasn't so bad standing in the line, but progressing down the line it was almost like being on a tilt-a-whirl. My partner and I were at a point where we had to go through it TWICE. It lasted for minimum of 20 minutes. And by the end of it we were exhausted. The last song was Auld Lang Syne, but not as I'd ever seen it. This was pure scottish tradition. All of the hundreds of people joined hands, and began singing, but towards the end the pace increased and everyone rushed the center of the room, grabbed a partner and danced to the fiddle until the band stopped playing the tune, singing the whole time. I can't wait for the next one!
As I started by talking about JK Rowling I feel I should bring this full circle, and list some of the more famous people from the University and City.
Charles Darwin - went here for a few years before deciding that Universities in general were just not for him
David Hume - Rather famous philosopher ("David Hume could out-consume
Schopenhauer and Hegel"... heehee- if you don't get it, watch more monty python) attended and lectured here.
Adam Smith- Economist, developed his theories in Edinburgh
Sir Walter Scott- Noted writer much beloved of the Scots
Robert Lewis Stevenson- Lived most of his life here, and attended University before taking off for warmer climates
James Hutton One of the founding fathers of Geology (so I'm a geek, but y'all love me)
Sean Connery- Enough said
Sir Arthur Conan Doyle- Elementary my dear Watson. He based Sherlock Holmes on one of his professors at the University
The list goes on, but those are my favorites.
Next week I start classes, and go on Homestay, so I'll probably be writing at some point after that. I love your comments and messages, keep it up! I miss you all, and hope you're doing well wherever you are!
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kmolly
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ok so those food stalls are glorious. i cannot wait to come visit you!! but not just for the food stalls :)