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Published: September 11th 2008
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And so leaving San Pedro and Chile was with an air of expectation - we joined our first tour group: a 3 day 4WD trip from San Pedro, over the border to Bolivia, and through some of the most delightfully volcanic and interesting terrain. Lunar landscapes, frozen lakes, bubbling thermal pools and guysers, flamingoes, and salt planes with a volcanic ´Island´in the middle. And the show stopping 'Rail Graveyard' - the resting place of piles of defunct rail equipment including huge steam powered drivers, and a myriad of bits and pieces, reating a photographic paradise of contrasts. It was undeniably incredible and a formidable experience.
Perhaps the experience we were most wary of was the reputedly -15°C nights. But prepared as we like to be for such things, we had pre-booked a sleeping bag each with our tour company (Estrella Del Sur). Planning to combine our thin bag, plus rental bag, plus blankets, we figured even Arlene would be OK.
That was until the staff at our accomodation finally admited they had no sleeping bag for us, and it is all the tour companies fault, not theirs. But it is OK - we will be able to get a
refund when we arrive at Uyuni in Bolivia. Great.
So we spent the night glued together on a single concrete bed base with mattress on top, while the scant water from our breath froze hard on the windows. Needless to say it was a remarkably bad sleep to start a three day tour... and also needless to say, we were unable to get a refund from the Bolivian office, as they ´had no money with them´, despite having sold a heap of tours that hour. Such is life. We got there in one piece... unlike a number of other tourists from the preceding months who fell victim to drunk and/or sleeping drivers, and poor vehicle maintenance. The skid marks and a cross or two are still fresh.
The tour was amazing, and we were thoroughly happy with our driver, who mostly stuck to the common tracks, avoiding contributing to the ongoing degradation of this once pristine paradise of snow white salt planes, sandy desert dunes, and volcanos. Our group of 6 - two Catalonian Spaniards, and two French, were outstanding company and were up for everything we were up for, including the obligatoy silly photos on the salt flats.
So, adios Vulcanos grandes, y hola Bolivia! We have a whole new chapter to our travels to now enjoy!
PS
Fellow traveller feedback on Tour Group Estrella Del Sur:
Tour booked for around the 20th August.
Cost: $105 US per person + 3000 chilean pesos for sleeping bag
Chose Estrella based on traveller feedback via internet and info centre.
At time of booking, we were on the second of two Estrella vehicles of 6 people each.
Specific questions asked at the time of booking:
Q1. Will we be on Estrella vehicles, or would we be placed on sub-contracted vehicles?
A1. Of course you will on Estrella vehicles.
Reality: We were dropped onto a third subcontracted vehicle
Q2: Can we rent sleeping bags?
A2: Certainly. Pay now, and show the receipt to the driver. He will arrange.
Reality: Driver looked a little perplexed when shown the receipt at first meeting. After dark, asked again. Referred to host of 1st night accommodation. No bags available despite having paid. Finally offer us one bag, which is never provided - it was probably a line to make us feel better. Told we could just get a refund on
arrival to Bolivia.
Refund Reality: Despite having sold 100´s of Bolivianos of tours that hour, the Bolivian office had ´no money´with them. We were asked to come back, when they would have some money. We did this many times over the next 24 hours, and they were either closed or would not refund.
Q3: Are there proper beds at the 1st night accommodation - not concrete.
A3: Yes - proper beds.
Reality: Concrete bed bases, with a mattress on top. Makes a cold start to the night.
Our driver Ronaldo was fantastic. He was not part of Estrella. He may have been from Crystal tours. He drove carefully, and picked sensible routes, rather than trampling the surrounding landscape.
This area is a busy tourist trail. Environmental concerns are easier for wealthy countries, but:
Multiple vehicle tracks going in the same direction to similar destinations, destroying the beauty of some of the landscape.
No toilet facilities. Most of our vehicle stops had no toilet facilities, with many unprepared tourists leaving toilet paper and the accompanying stink.
Plastic bags and drink bottles dumped at common lunch sites.
If you are doing this tour, please think ahead re toilet
and rubbish needs, and minimise your impact to this stunning environment for others to enjoy in years to come. Encourage your driver to stick to the common routes.
Here endeth the lesson according to us... gracias! Que te vaya bien.
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RobAndKrista
Rob & Krista
utterly stunning
Your photos are just getting better and better! Are you guys getting tired yet? You still look full of beans in your photos, good on you! X Krista.