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Published: August 3rd 2008
When we left Sydney to live in London, we had plans to visit many countries. Interestingly though, Croatia wasn't on the original list. But after being in London for a year, we had heaps of friends tell us that we HAD to go sailing in Croatia - so we decided that the summer of 08 would be the best opportunity. Erin had also planned for Alicia Sirbadhoo and Andy 'The Rock' Kabok to fly from Australia to join us for the trip. Alicia's great company, and Andy's antics would keep us entertained all trip.
Day 1 - London to Split
The 4th of July; American Independence Day, and the day we departed for 8 days in Croatia.... At this time last year we were in the Greek Islands (Santorini to be exact), and this year we would be on a yacht sailing the clear blue waters of Croatia's Dalmatian Coast - we sit back sometimes and think how lucky we have been to have such opportunities.
We decided on some cheap tickets with Croatian airlines that had a stop in Zagreb before going to Split. Unfortunately we sat around for 2.5 hours in 40 degree heat waiting for
our delayed connecting flight to Split. Maybe the direct flight may have been worth the extra expense?
We arrived in Split only to see the bus we needed to catch driving out of the bus stop....bugger! Stacy then went to talk to a cabby to see how much it would cost to get down to the harbour. The cabby said "eighty to ninety". Considering that the bus cost thirty Kuna each, that price seemed reasonable. So, with no hesitation, all four of us jumped into the cab and set-off for the harbour. 10 minutes onto the trip the meter ticked over 150 Kuna. What the...? A few questions to the cabby determined that he said the trip cost "two-ninety". Not "eighty to ninety", but "two-eighty / two-ninety". So we were ripped-off in the first hour of landing.....just perfect! And didn't Stace get reminded of it! Everyday it was: "that looks cheap Stace.....eighty-to-ninety?!", or "I wonder how much that costs Stace...eighty-to-ninety?!"). Let's just say that Stace didn't get ripped-off again!
That night we stayed in a little guesthouse up on the hill in Split. We were very fortunate to have air conditioning as Croatia is incredibly hot this time
of year…. It was so hot, that Andy kept saying: "It's like, so hot right now". He even sounded like Paris Hilton when he said it! It was classic! It sounds lame (and yes, it is...), but after it gets said about 20 times a day, it seems to get funnier and funnier...
That night we spent our first evening having dinner and drinks at one of the nice little waterfront restaurants; that restaurant is like, so hot right now.... (you get the picture).
Day 2 - Split to Makarska
Our boat, called ‘Tvrdi’, which we booked through “Sail Croatia”, was due to leave Split at 1pm. We were allowed to put our bags onboard from 10am onwards. So we found a café to have breakfast, dumped our bags onboard and spent the next couple of hours wandering around the market stalls, and bought some last minute items.
At 12.30pm we boarded the boat and found our room. We were sharing one small room and Alicia and Andy were sharing another. Both rooms were above deck (unfortunately ours was next to the engine room, so it was a tad noisy and smelly) and contained a bunk
bed, toilet and a shower nozzle attached to the hand basin. It was tiny, but that didn’t matter as we didn’t plan to spend much time in our room.
After exploring the boat, we went up on deck and met the 33 other people we would be spending the next 7 days with. Almost all of our fellow passengers were Australians aged 18-35. We also had a couple of Kiwi’s, a Romanian and a German.
We were given a briefing as we ate our lunch (an incredible 3 course meal that we would be treated to every day). We were introduced to the staff on board and met our crazy waiter, Michele (a definite ladies man). Then we were on our way!!!
The first town we stopped at was ‘Makarska’ (on the mainland, south of Split). Upon arrival, the four of us headed to a place by the rocks where Stacy and Andy decided to swim. The girls sat in a cave transformed into a funky bar. After a couple of drinks, we headed to an Italian Restaurant for dinner. Following dinner, we explored the town centre and watched a concert put on by local bands and
Erin - enjoying the sun
At the Cave Bar - Makarskachoirs. It was then time to treat ourselves to gelato and the first of many cocktails that we would consume during the next week. We settled into the Cocktail bar, listened to music and were treated to a pretty awesome fire works display.
Day 3 - Makarska to Mljet
Following a much needed sleep-in (our bodies were not yet used to the heat and it had knocked us around a bit!), we went up on deck for breakfast. Following breakfast, we climbed the ladder onto the roof of the boat and settled in to catch some rays and read our books/magazines. When the heat of the day kicked in, and we all felt a little cooked, it was time to find some shade! We knew it was time to get out of the sun because Andy would remind us: The roof is like, so hot right now... Taking in the morning sun became our typical daily routine.
Today we were bound for ‘Mljet’. On the way to the island, the boat stopped and we were allowed to jump off into the crystal blue water. The water was so clear, you could see all the way to
the bottom. The temperature was warm, yet refreshing. After ample ‘swim time’, we again began cruising towards Mljet.
When we arrived at the Island, we were told that we could walk through the National Park and catch a boat across to another small Island to explore ‘Saint Maria Mosque’. Together with Alicia, Andy, Nicole and Andrew (another Australian couple from our boat), we walked through the National Park towards the next boat, stopping for a swim on the way.
After a short boat trip, we were left to explore the Monastery and its peaceful surroundings. The boys went for another swim before we headed towards the boat that would take us back to Mljet. Unfortunately, we missed our boat and had to wait 1.5 hours for the next, and final boat of the day. This was somewhat frustrating as it meant that we missed the BBQ dinner on board our boat! However we made the most of the situation and relaxed by the water, with ice creams and dinks. When we eventually arrived back, we found a place for dinner and drinks as the other ravenous travelers on board our boat had demolished all the food from the
BBQ.
Fortunately, we did not join a couple of our fellow passengers in a midnight swim as their escapades resulted in them stepping on sea urchins - a rather painful experience!
Day 4 - Mljet to Dubrovnik
Today we were heading towards ‘Dubrovnik’. On the way, we stopped for a swim and Stacy donned some trendy rubber shoes (rubber shoes are like, so hot right now...) and headed for a small beach a short swim from our boat. We all had purchased the shoes to avoid the wrath of the dreaded sea urchins.
After lunch, we arrived in Dubrovnik, an incredible walled city. The docks were located just outside of the city, so we needed to take a 2km bus trip into the town.
As it was unbelievably hot, we all (Stacy, Erin, Alicia, Andy, Nicole and Andrew), decided to catch a boat to Lokrum (an island a short distance away), so that we could go swimming and cool down. But there was no beach! We simply had to dive from the rocks into the waters or climb down one of the steel ladders that were attached to the rocks. After a short swim,
Dolphins
They came to play...but only twice, and only very briefly. we headed back to Dubrovnik with Alicia and Andy. Nicole and Andrew decided to spend more time on the island.
When we arrived back at Dubrovnik, we decided to climb the walls that enclose the city. The view from the top of the walls was amazing and a definite ‘must do’ for anyone who visits Dubrovnik. On our journey around the walls, we stumbled upon some of the others from our boat and stopped to enjoy a freshly squeezed orange juice. We also stopped to watch people playing water polo in the ocean below!
After a quick trip back to the boat to freshen up and change, we headed back into Dubrovnik to have dinner. Joining us was Alicia, Andy, Phil, Alana, Katherine, Rick, Holly, Andrew and Nicole (fellow members of ‘Team Tvrdi’). We enjoyed an incredible sea food platter, followed by more cocktails!!!
Day 5 - Dubrovnik to Korcula
Today would see us depart Dubrovnik and arrive in Korcula. We awoke to rough seas and both Erin and Alicia were feeling more than a little nauseous! Whilst everyone avoided heading up to the roof, Andy ventured up and held on for dear life! He
explained that by lying spread eagled, you could get enough grip to stay balanced….
When we eventually headed into calmer waters, we were able to go swimming in a very idyllic setting. We spent quite a long time in this spot, swimming, paddling around on one of the two kayaks, and jumping off the boat into the water.
On our way to Korcula, we happened upon dolphins playing in the waters. They stayed near our boat for a short while, before they were out of sight (that didn’t stop Erin continuing to search the waters in the hope of seeing more!).
After arriving in Korcula, we decided to explore the town. We went to Marco Polo’s house, which is where he is believed to have been born in 1254. Whilst there wasn’t much to the house, we were able to climb the tower and look out across the water and town.
As the sun set across Korcula, we enjoyed cocktails on top of a turret on the walls of the city. The only way up to the top of the turret, is via ladder. Therefore the drinks are prepared downstairs and hoisted up using a pulley
system on the side of the tower. A very inventive system!
Day 6 - Korcula to Hvar
On the way from Korcula to Hvar, we stopped on two separate occasions for a swim. We spent the rest of the time lazing around the boat, reading at times or socializing with others. When we arrived at Hvar, the crew treated us to some very strong punch and fresh BBQ’d fish that was caught by one of the crew. Our boat definitely had a party atmosphere!!!
After briefly exploring the town, Stacy, Andy and Andrew decided to hire scooters whilst Erin, Alicia and Nicole decided to relax by the water with you guessed it - more cocktails!!!
As the boys were hiring the scooters the scooter guy asked how much experience we had. We all said we had “plenty”. About 2 minutes later, Andy had some doubts and then said, “well actually, not that much”, and then downgraded that to “actually, I’ve never ridden a scooter before…” So the guy took some extra time to explain how things work. Andy’s first 100m on the scooter resulted in him dragging his feet whilst trying to balance, then loosing
his thong (flip flop) to the gutter, and finally badly stubbing his toe!. He had to turn around, and recover the thong, but unfortunately, his skills to do this were not good enough and he ended up dropping (and only just saving) the scooter! We ended up only making it about 1km up the road to the castle, and then had to return because Andy’s scooter skills eluded him. The scooter guy, when he saw us coming back in, raced out to meet us. He looked concerned; he had seen Andy’s antics as we rode off with the scooters! He said grabbed the handlebars of Andy’s scooter and said “I don’t mean to be rude, but this is not for you!” Lets just say: the scooter jokes lasted many days!
After regrouping and having some dinner, we decided to join some of the Tvrdi Team and head to a night club recommended by our Chef, Marco. Whilst the night club was quiet at first, by mid night it really started to get going (though not the R’N’B room - Alicia had the room to herself, joined at times by both Andy and Erin!). At about 3am we headed back
to the boat for a few hours sleep.
Day 7 - Hvar to Brac (Bol)
We arrived at the Island of Brac, by about 11am. We moored just off the beach at Bol (the main town on the Island of Brac) and whilst some of us swam to the island, a couple of people used the Kayaks to shuttle our towels etc over to the beach. We spent the next 5 hours swimming and lazing on the pebbly beach. As the afternoon progressed, the winds increased, causing choppy seas. By the time we had to swim back to the boat, we had to battle strong currents and the chop back to the boat (hard work!). Some people even required assistance to make it back!
The boat then docked at the wharf at Bol, and we were left to explore the island for the night. The four of us had a nice Italian meal, and then sat by the water sipping cocktails.
Day 8 - Bol to Split
At this point, our trip was close to over. We departed Bol and began our journey back to Split. Of course we stopped for a final
swim! Our final lunch on board our boat was a real highlight - BBQ’d Carpina (fish), which was delicious!
Upon arrival in Split, we all decided to have dinner together before heading to a beach bar for drinks and dancing. As some of our fellow passengers were leaving very early the next morning, this would be the final time we would see them. With promises of swapping photos and looking each other up on Facebook, we bid farewell to some of Team Tvrdi. Our trip was definitely drawing to a close….
Day 9 - Split to London
Following an early breakfast on board our boat, it was time to leave. We walked Alicia and Andy over to where they had to catch to Bosnia. Before we knew it we were saying our ‘goodbyes’. This proved difficult for Erin and Alicia, who had both cherished the time they spent with each other as it was the first time they had seen each other in 18 months apart.
After watching them board their bus and waving our goodbyes, it was time to decide how we were going to spend the next 12 hours until our flight departed
Split for London. As we felt overcome by heat and had thoughtlessly left our swimming costumes in the bags we had checked into storage for the day, we decided that a cool place was imperative! After doing a bit of shopping and sitting in a shady park, we eventually stumbled upon an air conditioned restaurant (a rare find!) and decided to stay there for as long as possible. After leaving here, we hired deck chairs with umbrellas and feel asleep in the shade. It wasn’t long before it was time to head back to the airport.
This trip was absolutely amazing - island hopping, cruising, swimming, relaxing, great company - what more could you ask for.
We would like to say a big thank you to Alicia and Andy (aka: The Rock Kabok!) for helping make this journey a special one!!!
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Rach and JK
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Oh the memories.....
So glad you guys had as much fun as we did!! Take care.