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Published: November 20th 2005
Cusco
On 19th October, I had just over a week to go in South America. I have to get to Santiago on the 29th, but still not been to Peru. I hadn't expected to spend so much time in Bolivia, but have no regrets. However, I did want to go and see the Inca capital of Cusco and the "Lost City" of Machu Picchu.
I took the bus up from Copacabana. After a slightly farcical border crossing (it would have been easy to get into Peru without showing passport and then returned to Bolivia) we headed to Puno, then up to Cusco.
We finally got to Cusco about midnight and I got a taxi into town with some other tourists I met on the bus. We got ripped off by the taxi driver (we later found out how much we should have paid and it was about five times over), but he had the cheek to try and rip us off even more! We ended up in a hostel in a dorm with no locks, numbers or labels on the doors (including the toilet) and a noisy tour group that woke us up early in the morning. I got
up early and found another hotel. I'd stayed in places in Bolivia that weren't too nice but generally didn't mind as I was out most of the day doing stuff. This was the first place that compelled me to go. I ended up in a small friendly family run hostel with a private room for very little more than the awful dorm. However, it was a sign of how things were going to be in Cusco: more expensive generally than Bolivia and people are more adept at taking your money.
In Cusco there are no street vendors with stalls on the streets as you find in any town in Bolivia. I'm very much aware that this is a place that people come on two week holidays from wealthy countries on holiday; and who are not on the same budget as long term travellers. Cusco has doubled its prices in the less than two years since my Lonely Planet was published and many things are more expensive than in my Footprint guide which is only a few months old! The authorities are capitalising on more tourists coming here because of terrorist fears in other parts of the world. It's still
More Inca Stonework
Huge stone at Sacsayhuaman (often pronounced "Sexy Woman"), a huge Inca site just outside Cusco, which eveyone likes to have their photo taken by.cheap by European standards, but definitely more expensive than I've been used to. Certainly there are a lot more tourists about than I'm used to - and they tell me this is the quiet season! There are certainly lots of Europeans, but I saw more Americans (and Japanese!) in Cusco than in the whole of Bolivia. And what’s more, there are loads of Israelis - with Hebrew signs in shops. Quite surreal...
I went on a “City Tour” of the main sites just outside Cusco. The Incas are a fascinating people. The capital of their vast empire was here and they built the city in the shape of a puma. Even though the Spanish destroyed so much when they got here, there is still lots of evidence of their building skills. The brickwork is really fascinating (I had no idea brickwork could be so fascinating, but anyone who’s been here will understand!). They generally didn’t use mortar and the stones are all irregularly shaped, yet fit perfectly. It is still a mystery quite how they did it, but it was very successful as several earthquakes since the fall of the empire have seen colonial buildings crumble but Inca structures
More inca stonework
Staircase at Sacsayhuaman stay standing.
My digestive system is feeling the strain. Don’t think I’ve eaten anything dodgy, just that I’ve been doing so many things in the last few weeks and haven’t really had any kind of break yet. I’ve also been eating badly: much less fruit and fibre than I’ve been used to; and a generally poor diet here (chips with everything, biscuits and sweets for bus journeys). Maybe I’m also feeling the shock of returning to altitude after the rainforest. Hopefully I’ll have a chance to unwind in Santiago but I want to make the most of being in Cusco while I’m here. I’m constantly reminding myself how valuable this time is and this may be the only time I come here.
The following day, I went on a day tour of most of the major sites in the Sacred Valley (Piscac, Urubamba, Ollantaytambo and Chinchero). Really interesting and I don’t think I can do justice in explaining what they were all about. I can certainly say that a day tour to cover them all was a bit fast and that you could really spend a week visiting all the sites (preferably at times when the tour groups
are not there) and doing some background reading on what they all meant.
The Incas are really mysterious. Their empire lasted just 200 years (only really 100 years as a major power) and they collapsed overnight when the Spanish arrived. The Spanish then spend a lot of time and effort in destroying as much of their buildings as possible (both in the search for gold and to smash the old religions and assert power). The Incas had no writing system that is now decipherable and there are so many gaps in our knowledge. However, there is a lot that we do know and it is really tantalising.
The following day, I had most of a day to kill before heading to Machu Picchu. Visited the Santa Caotlina museum, which showed lots of religious art. I find a strange appeal in the awkward poses; the same stories painted again and again; and the goriness. The Spanish built churches on the site of any Inca temple and there are loads in the centre of Cusco. I have to say that they do look very attractive even if they do represent the destruction of something unique and possibly even more beautiful.
More Inca Stonework
Different style. Not for such ornate buildings. Then I went to the Inca Museum. They had lots of artefacts but I wasn’t allowed to take any photos. There were scale models, including one of Machu Picchu.
After that, I went to the Museo de la Arte Precolombio. This was really interesting indeed! The museum has the idea that rather than show artefacts like a museum, it will do so as an art gallery and focus on the beauty of the pieces rather than get all anthropomorphic. Works are lit beautifully. They had pieces from all over Peru. It was interesting to see how this “primative art” as it was once known as, has influenced later artists. The bowls from the Nasca culture looked like Matisse and there were lots of works that looked like cubism. I forgot to take pictures of the pre-ceramic early period, but there were some really beautiful works in there. If anyone is going there, I’d most appreciate any photos! The museum is a bit under-rated (I saw only one other tourist in there) and not so well known but well worth a visit. It reminded me of an exhibition I’d seen in London a few years back on art from
the Aztec civilisation of modern-day Mexico that also took an "art exhibition" approach.
Machu Picchu
Machu Picchu is accessed via either the Inca Trail (on foot) or from the town of Aguas Calientes in the valley below. Aguas is only accessible by train. Hence, the rail company has a monopoly on access. Only a few years ago, you could get a cheap “local” train. Now, tourists have to go on special trains and they charge over USD100 each way. However, there is a cheaper way whereby you get to a town called Ollantaytambo halfway down the track by bus and get the train from there. There’s a special tourist carriage on the local train and they charge “only” USD20. You have to go late at night, have the whole of the next day in Aguas and return early in the morning the day after. This suited me quite well actually as I intended spending as much time in Machu Picchu as possible and spending two nights in Aguas would let me do this.
It was very strange travelling in the Gringo carriage. It’s a long time since I’ve been with so many westerners and no South Americans. Didn’t
Inca site of Ollantaytambo
Temple to Pacha Mama which was unfinished by the time the Spanish arrived. hear any Spanish spoken!
The following day, I visited one of the world’s special places: Machu Picchu.
The day started badly when I dropped my wallet while boarding the bus. It only had cash in (I was careful about that and luckily only a small amount) but it was annoying and inconvenient. All my important documents and cards were elsewhere so I could carry on and was determined that it would not ruin my day!
We arrived as the site opened at 7am. I started the day with a two-hour tour of the site. As we entered, it was misty and we couldn’t see more than 100m or so. Gradually the mists cleared and we could see more and more of the site. Eventually, the sun came out and we saw the full majesty of the setting of this city on a col in the mountains, with mountains all around, including Wayana Picchu, the famous backdrop that you’ve seen in thousands of pictures. An awesome sight and nice to see it gradually revealed like this.
After the tour, I climbed Wayana Picchu. It was a steep climb and really busy at the top. Great views though!
Then, I walked the last part of the Inca Trail, up to a ruin known as the Sun Gate. For people who walk the Inca Trail, it’s there that they get their first view of this amazing place. Incidentally, I chose not to do the four day walk to Machu Picchu via this popular footpath. In recent years it has become more difficult to get onto as visitor numbers are reduced and prices rise. I could have reserved it a couple of months previously, but I didn’t know when I would get to Cusco and did not want an artificial deadline in my trip. If I had booked a date, I would most likely have seen much less of Bolivia.
I was determined to spend the whole day in the site as there is so much to see there. By that point it was mid-afternoon and the site was emptying. Then, a rainbow came out! The rainbow was an important symbol for the Incas. We also got some thunder (also a symbol) and a little light rain which happily scared away a lot of tourists.
I had until closing time at 6pm, so I went back up
Church built on site of Inca temple
The freize shows the Incas being defeated. to the central feature of Machu Picchu. It has been named the “Intihuatana”, which literally means “Hitching Post of the Sun”. It’s also known in English as the sundial. No one knows what it actually is. There are lots of very intriguing theories, but little in the way of facts. What is undeniable though is that this was a place of great importance and has many astronomical alignments, including being at the exact spot to see the winter solstice sunrise and sunset over the summits of adjacent mountains. The centre piece is carved out of the solid stone found in-situ at the site when it was built. It has an angle of 13 degrees (the same as the longitude at this point) and looks like it must be an abstract piece of art you’d find in a gallery. There are nearly always loads of tourists at this point and everyone visits here. The site was getting really empty and I spent 15 minutes
alone, with no one else in that area. I could see a few people up at the “Watchman’s cottage”, where you get classic postcard views, and a few people milling around, but other than that, I could
only hear the wind, the river below, birds and insects. I felt really privileged and it put losing my wallet firmly in perspective!
When 6pm came, I left and walked down the hill as it was getting dark. I later found out that (apparently) the site closes at 4pm on Sundays! This may explain why it was so empty... Anyway, no one tried to throw me out and I’ll always remember the experience of having time alone in such a special place.
That evening, I tried cuy (guinea pig), a delicacy in the Andes which was popular in Inca times too. I’d been meaning to try it since I arrived, but as I was off to Chile in a couple of days time, this would be my last chance! I can say that (as with most types of meat it seems), it tasted “a bit like chicken”, but a bit more “meaty” and very greasy. It was served with the head and claws still attached. It’s quite tough to get the meat off the bones so you’re meant to hold it with your hands and chew it (I got oven cooked, maybe the steamed version would be easier?).
This felt a little strange, but I reckon that if I’m not going to be a vegetarian I should be able to eat meat that looks like it’s from an animal. Still, I left quite a bit of the meat on the bone. Would make good stock though... As if for a penance for my rodent/pet eating sins, I accidentally left my hat under the seat and didn’t notice until I’d left town. Having a bad day for losing stuff, but visiting Machu Picchu can make up for a lot!
Got the train and bus back to Cusco early the next morning. Four hours in all, and this is only the beginning of my journey to Santiago, nearly 2000 miles away! On the bus, met Felix, a German guy I’d first met in Copacabana. Although he’d taken the train back, he’d got to Aguas Calientes by another route. This route is not in the guidebooks (yet). With the train becoming so expensive then, if I were a Peruvian entrepreneur, I’d open it up for tourists. If you’d like to know what the route is, email me. Otherwise, I’d like the route to remain “special” for some time to come.
I had four hours to kill in Cusco before I got my bus south. I visited the churches and bought some last minute souvenirs (and a replacement hat!).
Peru and Chile don’t get on (the War of the Pacific again!) and it’s not possible to get across the border on long distance busses. I’m going to have to get a bus to a town called Tacna in the South of Peru, then get a local bus or taxi across to Arica in the north of Chile.
I got the supposed “luxury” bus. It did have “semi-cama” reclining seats, but it was not comfortable; we didn't get meals when we had been told we would do; and the light went out when I was in the toilet and had just locked the door (a scary moment!). I guess it’s just a matter of expectations. I’d heard Peruvian luxury busses were excellent, so was a little disappointed. It felt like a long journey, but I did manage to get some sleep. Most of the night, we were descending from the altiplano along some very windy roads. We stopped at a few places during the night and at one, I
Machu Picchu
The mists clearing and Wayana Picchu appearing. got out and looked at the stars as it was a beautiful dark, clear night. I’m beginning to get interested in astronomy after seeing its importance in so many pre-columbian ruins in South America. I managed to spot the Southern Cross and felt quite pleased with myself, bless!
Finally, I got to Tacna. There was a special taxi service to take us across the border. We travelled in this big old American car and it was the most thorough border control I’ve every been through! My bag was searched several times by lots of different people.
Notes on Peru and other Comments
I didn’t spend nearly as much time in Peru as I did in Ecuador or Bolivia. Also, I was in the most touristy part of the continent, so I didn’t see as much of the authentic country as I would have liked. However, the bits that I did see: the centre of the Inca Empire, were fantastic and I can see why they are the most touristy part of the continent!
They are certainly geared up to taking money from wealthy tourists. This is both from the authorities (doubling prices for transport and admission prices
which tourists will pay anyway) and for the hassle you get from beggars and touts. Supposedly, Peru is wealthier than Bolivia, but when you get an uneven distribution of wealth and fabulously wealthy gringos arriving, it’s going to make people try to get what they can. I would certainly be doing that if I were a poor Peruvian.
There are loads of other great things to see and do in Peru, and I could easily have spent my full six weeks there and still felt I hadn’t had enough time. Maybe another time? I live in hope...
Turns out I left Ecuador before they qualified for the World Cup finals. Would have been a big party in Quito that night! Great Quote I heard: “Venezuela is more of a Miss World winner than a World Cup qualifier”.
Managed to calm my digestive system down after a while with relatively simple food (Spaghetti Napolitana is fantastic!). I was lucky not to get a proper tummy bug during my time. I’m going to have to be a bit more careful with my diet while on the road though. Should hopefully be easier in Chile and New Zealand.
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Matt/Jim
non-member comment
Peru pleasure
hey mate. I missed you by about 5 months back then. Glad you enjoyed the Inca ruins. Yes indeed, what a differance in prices especially if you are coming in from Bolivia too. Great photos, great blogs my firend. Keep them up if you can.