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Crac des Chevaliers
on the stairs to the wall that surrounds the castle Today I checked out the Crac des Chevaliers, which is an old (1000 AD) castle/fortress. It was really amazing--incredibly well preserved, but getting there and back to Hama was the real adventure- a knight in shining armor out have been useful!
So Camilla (British roommate at the hotel) and I decide to set out around 9:00- 9:30, but first I had to exchange some Turkish lyra into Syrian pound. I didnt do this (well I changed a small amount at the bus station so I would have some, but the rate seemed bad so only a little) when I arrived and was kicking myself for it when I had to walk up an down the street mumbling "money exchange" because all the banks were closed yesterday (Friday= holy day- duhh!) and then follow an old man into a stairwell where he proceed to rip me off, but what could I do? I needed money and the bank wasnt accepting my card.
Anyway, I go to the Commercial Bank of Syria where they send me to the second floor and the lady behind the "exchange" desk tells me that today is a holiday so they cant exchange money-- strange because why would
they be open at all, if only to be there to tell the customers that they are unable to perform services. HAHA She said that there is another bank around the corner and they could exchange.
On the way out we met a Swiss couple who were also looking to exchange money. We walked into what seemed to be the bank to find a man with his back to us, leaning over the toilet working away at something with the door wide open! We realized that this wasn't the bank and promptly exited- I did not need to see that... We were standing on the street in a state of disgust and shock when the aforementioned man comes out of the building and says in broken English that this isnt the bank (umm...we'd figured that one out!). I have to mention that his pants were wet and splotchy in the crotch area and there definately wasnt time for him to wash his hands. He approaches the Swiss man and is about to touch his shoulder to point him in the right direction...I know I had a look of pure dread for this guy and his face didnt hide it either, the man removes his hand, and it is obvious to all involved that we know what he had been up to.
Anyway, money change, we head to the bus station. A 20 minute walk from town. We managed to find a bus to Homs (30 minutes away) and found a bus to the small town where the castle is located, but these buses dont depart until they are full, so we sat for the next 2 hours waiting for the bus to fill up. Although it was a long wait, we had some nice people to talk to and cute babies to gawk at. There was even a man who worked at the castle and said we could get in for student prices. In his broken English, he gave us the history of the castle until my neck was too sore from being turned around and he finally took his cute baby and exited. The baby was 9 months, although it looked younger and despite the fact that it had no teeth yet, ate a cucumber, some sort of pita wrap and an apple! haha strange food for a little baby.
When we finally arrived to the castle it was 2:00 and we decided to have some lunch at the restaurant, which was actually quite good.
The castle was really wonderful, and there were almost no tourists. The best part was the view. Camilla was even on the ball enough to have brought a flashlight so that we could check out all the areas that are pitch black (no electricity- not very tourist, really cool).
The nice man that we met on the bus was at the castle by the time that we had arrived and got us in for pennies and advised us when we needed to catch the bus back to Homs. We waited outside for an hour and a half and finally a bus showed. He said that he would take us for 100 Syrian pounds. (Oh, another thing, the price to get there when from 35 SP to 50 SP due to fuel prices in the past 3 days! Prices are going up across the board. It is more accurate to take LP prices and double them- brutal.). I tried arguing with the guy that we should not have to pay more because there arent other passengers, but quickly agreed because we needed to get back (it is still only $2). He then proceeded to stop until we had a full bus. When we arrived in Homs, we paid our 50 SP that everyone else is paying and he began to loadly complain that we needed to pay more. The people in the bus understood and agreed that we should not have to pay more now that he filled the bus (and went out of our way to do it), so there was a huge argument in Arabic with about 4 passengers sticking up for us and one angry bus driver. Then everyone exited and we were alone with the pissed off man until we got to the station (really only about 500m), but I was thinking I hope he doesnt try anything, but it was fine.
Then we came back to Hama and met some more nice Syrians along the way who are studying English at university, so we helped them with their homework.
We went for dinner at a restaurant that overlooks some of the norias (wooden water wheels) that HAma is famous for. Ordering our dinner proved quite the challenge and ended with Camilla imitating a chicken and pointing to her plate. We went to this place because we decided that we really wanted/needed a glass of wine after our day, but it turns out that they no longer serve alcohol. The waiting staff really seemed to enjoy us (I feel like a zoo animal eating here, because there is always an audience).
All in all not a bad day.
Thanks for all the comments from family, friends and even strangers (Erin and Dan--eat some kimchi for me, Im really missing Korean food!) It is nice to know that you are enjoying my blogs.
Also, FYI: Facebook has been blocked in Syria, due to anti-Islam groups, so I cant get on at all.
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Danielle
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It sounds like you are continuing to have such adventures. You just never know what you'll find in open doorways...ICK! I would have loved to see the castle. How nice for you that it was quite authentic. I'm also glad to hear you are meeting many friends along the way to enjoy your sight-seeing with. I'm surprised to hear you're missing Korean food! I bet yoy're REALLY missing Canadian food :D Ryan has been hoping you'll learn some interesting receipies to bring home to us. MISS YOU!