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Published: November 17th 2005
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Salto Huilo Huilo
If only we´d had a couple of hours to really enjoy the area. Woke up feeling stiff and sore, but we were packed and ready to go on time (8:30am). We´re beginning to behave like professionals.
Today was going to be an easy day. We needed to catch a ferry 21kms down the road, which according to our guidebook left at either 7am or 2pm, so we figured we had five hours to get there, then we planned to camp at the other end of the lake and spend a lazy afternoon recovering.
We quickly retraced the 4kms back to the turn off to Coishuenco and continued on. It was a gradual climb uphill, but nothing too bad. About 10kms out of town we came across an unexpected but wonderful find ... a well stocked store!!! We bought soft drink, the yummiest cheese and fresh bananas. Heaven. They even have Cabanas (Cabins) for anyone that may come this way after us.
Just as we were about to pull away I thought I´d check on the ferry departure times. ¨Doce¨. the store owner said. No problems I thought, two o'clock as I thought, then I did a quick double take ¨Doce or Dos?¨ definitely Doce ... That´s noon, not 2pm. Not a
The Ferry
Notice my friends the cattle waiting nearby ... and of course the obligatory dog. problem. It was only another 11km and we still had 2 hours ...
Then, of course, the road went up. I mean uupppp. It took us nearly an hour to grind through the next 4kms. We were pushing our bikes in spots. Despite the time pressure we decided to pull off and visit Salto Huilo Huilo (a waterfall) because we figured there would always be another ferry tomorrow, but we´d not likely come back this way again. Fortunately the falls were only about 200m from the main road, and a further five minute walk (run). Truly it would be a magnificent spot to stop and enjoy a few lazy hours, but the lady at the park gate (it costs 1500 pesos to visit the falls) confirmed that the ferry left at noon so we had to keep going.
As we left, three gardeners who were poking at our bikes helpfully told me that the road was all uphill from here to the ferry and looked very doubtful about my ability to make it. They kept staring at my stomach ... rude buggers.
We just went for it. Christie hit a sugar slump about 2kms from the ferry,
but with only 20 minutes before it left I had to continue on ahead to see if I could make it in time and get it to wait for her to arrive ... I even overtook a car going down the last section of road into Puerto Fuy ... I pulled up with 7 minutes to spare and the ferry was still there ... in fact it was there for another 40 minutes, as it actually leaves at 12:30 ... grumble grumble, grumble. Still better early than late.
The extra 30 minutes gave me time to eat five empanadas, a cup of coffee and two rum balls as well as get changed into dry clothes. Smart me even thought to hang my damp cycling clothes out on my bike like a washing line so they´d dry during the ferry crossing. Not just a pretty face (and fat stomach) you know.
It was a very relaxing and scenic crossing along the lake. It took about an hour and a half including dropping off some timber cutters along the way. Met some Canadians on the boat (first gringos we´d seen in a few days) but just as we were settling
in, it was time to get off again.
As I wandered over to get my bike I wondered why all these locals were laughing and pointing at it. Then I saw that the cattle that had been on board hadn´t liked boat travel too much and had had a case of the runs ... there was now nice runny cow sh*t splattered all over my cycling clothes ... 2 days until the next town. Yay! Christie also found this rather funny.
We felt a bit better after our ferry crossing, so continued on. Ended up covering another 18kms as it was mostly downhill or undulating. The border crossings were very easy. We passed the Canadians we´d met on the ferry. They´d got a lift as far as the Chilean Border, but had to walk the 8kms from there to the Argentinian Border. We told the guy at the Argentinian Border (who was looking to close for the day) that they were coming, and hope they made it there and on to San Martin, but we didn´t see any more cars go past us that night. Can only hope.
After being turned away by a very nice Hospedje
A long dusty road
We hit peak hour traffic coming off the ferry ... five trucks in a row! because we looked a bit too scruffy, we pulled into a gorgeous campground on the lake shore which had only opened for the season the day before. We had it all to ourselves and to make things perfect they even turned the hot water on so we could have a hot shower. I love Argentinians. All this for the princely price of 8 pesos each ($A4).
Had a lovely evening eating pasta, chocolate and coffee. I had got jack of my fringe getting into my eyes all day so Christie cut it off with a pair of tiny scissors. Let´s just say that if Anthony was there he´d have had to cry ... but at least it didn´t cost me $150 like his hair cuts do 😊.
After watching the sunset and reading for a while we settled in for an uncomfortable night awake ... somehow, despite having the entire, nearly perfectly flat campground all to ourselves we´d managed to pitch our tent on a downhill slope with our heads at the wrong end. One day we´ll come out ahead. It just wasn´t going to be today.
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Choshuenco to Nonthue Campground on the Western end of
Hello Argentina
Cheap food, cheap accomodation ... why did we ever leave you? Lago lacor, 6km from border.
Distance: 41.51km plus ferry ride . Total Distance: 229.7km
Mood: Went from sore and tired to happy and wonderful. Feeling great.
Route: All dirt roads, uphill and bad all the way to ferry, but mainly downhill and in good condition on the other side.
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Katia Stam
non-member comment
Prices and dates
Hi, very interesting your blog, moreover I want to go there (Huilo-Huilo falls) with my children. Your photos are amazing and funny. Tell me, when did you travel to chile, specifically to this area? and how about prices...cheap? sorry by my english, but I´m chilean and ...you know, we speak spanish here, so ok, I ´ll waiting your answer, by and have a good time! Katy