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Published: March 12th 2008
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Boats of the Sultans
In a giant warehouse there were several dozen of these boats. All used by the Sultan for general lounging. It's been a while. Without an internet connection in my room, I need to go the library if I want a good connection, or wander down to south campus if I just want to check my email. It's not too inconvenient, but it means fewer posts as things (classes, touring) pick up here.
On Friday, I spent the entire day (again) dealing with the Turkish government and civil services in an attempt to pick up my residence permit and student akbil (transportation card that gives me a super-discount on all public transportation). Both efforts were in vain. The residence permit wasn't ready and I need to wait until the 17th to pick up my akbil. I had originally planned on going to the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia on Saturday, but after a long week and another exhausting day trying to get my paperwork finished off, I decided to sleep in instead. I did go to the naval museum though, which was pretty cool. It was mostly a history of the modern navy, but they had several sections dealing with older things. The museum had one building with a bunch of exhibits and models, a garden/grassy area with cannon and
Outside the Church
This is the rear of the Kariye Museum, the Byzantine Church we visited. The important looking man who looks like he is talking really is talking, that's our guide, Yavuz Sezer. artillery and then a warehouse on the other side of the garden. In the warehouse were actual ships used by the Ottoman Sultans. They weren't warships, but rather luxury boats, adorned with intricate carvings and bright paint.
Sunday was a big day. The exchange commission organized a trip, guided by an art history grad student at the university, of several parts of the old city. It was a very long trip, and the guide talked a lot, but there are some pictures (and a movie) that I was going to try to upload to show everyone a little of what I saw.
The first stop was Kariye Museum, which is an old Byzantine church. It was renovated in the 14th century (1300s), and even though the Byzantine Empire was in decline, it was still wealthy, and the local administrator was able to adorn it with lots of valuable things, like marble. Many people said they preferred this to Hagia Sofia, as you actually got to get up close and see the mosaics, which were pretty cool. Included is one of the mosaics, showing the administer behind the funding of the renovation giving the church to Jesus Christ. Also
Mosaic
This is a mosaic in the church, depicting the administrator behind the renovation offering the new church to Jesus Christ. Jesus Christ, in turn, is giving his divine "OK" approval. at this church was a very famous painting depicting the end of the world, with Jesus taking Old Testament figures from their graves. It is famous because it is far more realistic than contemporary paintings.
We left the church and took a bus to the Fatih Mosque complex, where I had been earlier when I registered for my residence permit. This time, I had a camera, and was able to take a bunch of pictures. The sheer volume of space in the mosque was unreal. The pictures I took can't convey the sheer height of the ceilings, so I tried to make a video. It is a bit disorienting, but approaches the spacial emphasis better than photos could. There is a lot of history and symbolism in the mosque, and Mehmet the Conquerer (Fatih) is buried just outside in a separate mausoleum.
Then we tried to take the bus to Topkapı Palace, the old royal palace, which is now a museum. We failed. we tried taking side-streets and alleys, and our bus simply didn't fit. We needed to make a sharp right-hand turn at one intersection, and got wedged at an odd angle blocking all lanes of traffic.
Resurection
This is apparently the most famous medieval painting, as it pioneers the artistic concept of realism, depicting things more in proportion with their surroundings and with realistic and detailed figures. It has a Greek title, but it should translate to "Resurection" if memory serves. There we sat, making tiny turns and movements back and forth for 15 minutes. Finally we were free and had to travel back down a hill in reverse until we found a bigger street. It was entertaining for all of us (as demonstrated by the fact that we started taking pictures), but we really messed up that intersection and frustrated a lot of drivers.
We finally made it to Topkapı Palace, which was huge. It was right next to Hagia Sophia, where the Sultan and royal cohort would attend Friday noon prayers. Topkapı was divided into several sections by gates. Each gate was followed by a courtyard and assorted buildings, with each successive courtyard complex being more removed from the general populous. (Example, 1st courtyard was public, one of the middle ones was for training the Janissaries and the last courtyard was for royalty only.) It was huge, and I know we didn't see everything, despite spending 3+ hours there (maybe more, I lost count).
I'm still playing football with the exchange commission, and am getting better and more consistent in my playing abilities. This weekend I'm made plans to go to Hagia Sophia/Blue Mosque with a few
Group Shot!
Josh (left), me, and then a Turkish pal of mine, Tanju, who leads the Turkish Conversation Club, part of the exchange commission, which helps foreigners learn Turkish. friends, so that should be really exciting. I'll try to post a few pictures of that next week sometime.
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Brita
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thinking of you!
Hi Brian! It looks like you are having quite a big adventure.... Please know you have lots of people at home thinking and praying for your safety, and supporting your world travels! (okay...I say this...and I mean this...kinda hokey, but mostly awesome....right?) Let your followers know if your paperwork get sorted out....wow...if there are two things I hate they would be paper work, and paper work in foreign languages! :)