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Published: March 9th 2008
Lightplay
My favorite perspective, and it can be found anywhere trees and sunlight coexist.Hail from the Hippie Haven of El Bolson!
We left Bariloche Tuesday afternoon, finally en bici. The days pass slowly in the way you feel when watching a slide show of warmly lit photos or laying in a field looking at rorscharch cumulous clouds. Going south on Route 40 is like taking a trip through time. All the mileposts are numbered in descending fashion towards Ushuaia, El Fin del Mundo. Annie remembers dates like the initiation of the Ford assembly line and for some reason I think of flu epidemics and wars. We began our trip in the future, around the time when Mick Jagger will finally realize it’s over, and are now are in an industrious, naïve time before the world knew there could be war large enough to have its namesake.
The Lake District is living up to its name well. The first day we had lunch next to a crescent shaped mountain lake with serpentine mixing lines of glacial and fresh water currents a few hundred meters off shore. Lunch was wheat bread from a Bariloche bakery, mozzarella, tomatoes, avocado, carrots, and a somewhat frightening assortment of Argentine cookies.
Cocinando
I could very possible spend my whole life doing this. We ate slowly, swam the way we were meant to swim, and lay in the sun and read. Slowly. I have no idea what the lake is called and I like it that way.
That night we rolled our bikes off a lake access road and camped under the perfect stars of a new moon in the Southern Hemisphere. The next morning we made oatmeal and coffee next to the lake and woke ourselves up with another swim. The light here is PERFECT, it seems eerily soft all day. I should, however, qualify my claim of a morning swim and breakfast… it was 1:30. The time zones here are all oriented around Buenos Aires around a 1000k to the east, so the sun does not rise here until after 9 and sets around 9:30 pm. That, combined with the shade of the mountains, encroaching winter, and a severe bout of laziness, has robbed us of Argentine mornings. Either way, it is light when we wake up and dark when we sleep.
This is more or less how things are on the road. Due to a minor (con suerte) hang up,
Ahhh, vino.
The wine is quite possibly the best part of this country. If you can find it check out a 2007 Cab-Syrah mix by Suton. I have no idea if it is imported back home or how much it would be but here it is about 2 dollars and DElicious. however, we are stuck in El Bolson for a few days. Annie’s ATM card was ingested by a hungry bank machine Saturday morning and they cannot extract it until 8 o’clock Monday morning. This also happens to be the time they will send the contents of the machine to Buenos Aires, so it is somewhat crucial that we leave our idle morning habits for a day. This is undoubtedly the work of Herman, the mythical (or is he...) supervillian we have created who is now responsible for all our robbings, malfunctionings, and bus company debockals. It ended up working out, though, as it usually does. Yesterday we stumbled upon a spectacularly set hops farm with hedges of lavender and I may have found my new favorite smell. The owner of the farm was asleep but an amiable farm hand with a name that sounds like Eduardo invited us to sleep in his yard just down the street. So, until tomorrow we are staying in a small fenced in yard full of chickens and curious perros next to a quaint little log house and flower garden. I will try to snap a few pics of his mother, she is priceless. With
Gemaux
From a beautiful park in Mendoza. The light reminded me of a museum I saw in Tours, France several years ago. It was called Musée Gemeax (I think) and not much more than a hole in the wall filled with molten colored glass set against dark velvet and lit from behind. luck we will be making our way to Esquel tomorrow and then south to Chile and the Carretera Austral. Que les vayan bien.
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annie n
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ah hah hah
Hello Oh la, is that really how our trip is going? Sounds great. I especially liked the part about eating a lot of cookies. I love you, mister.