DOING LINES IN SOUTH AFRICA

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DOING LINES IN SOUTH AFRICA

It’s addictive.

I only did a little bit at first.

Forgive me.

Initially, because of all the miserable things associated with it, I was very anxious.

But I went ahead.

Forgive me.

My heart raced.

I poured sweat.

At night, when I walked in the dark, paranoia.

It’s true, I said to myself, real, no joke, because the knifepoint has been so close.

But I could not stop.

I did more.

After all, I was surrounded by it. There was no getting away.

And little by little, month-by-month, my tolerance grew.

I needed more and more.

But I’ve “heaved to,” as the cap’n might say.

And now, just yesterday, it dawned on me.

I could live here.

South Africa.


SOME REASONS:

1. Pan-fried duck livers with puff pastry served with a brandy and black peppercorn sauce.

2. “How can people worry about taking their AIDS pills when they don’t even have water.” (woman talking to me on a bus)

3. Pinotage.

4. “As a woman living with HIV I am often asked if there will ever be a cure for HIV/AIDS, and my answer is that there already is a cure. It lies in the strength of women, families and communities who support and empower each other to break the silence around AIDS and take control of their sexual lives.” (Beatrice Were)

5. Cycling over the Helshoogte Pass to Franschoek for a bar of dark Belgian chocolate.

6. “…then I lost my direction. I didn’t see that I was presenting myself as a potential victim; you never realize it until it is too late, and by the time I realized, I was already looking at a wall. You never know in Johannesburg, but I tell you, walk carefully and think fast, this is Johannesburg, you are either fast or dead.” (Kgebetli Moele, from “Room 207”)

7. “Friends, comrades and fellow South Africans. I greet you all in the name of peace, democracy and freedom for all. I stand here before you not as a prophet but as a humble servant of you, the people. Your tireless and heroic sacrifices have made it possible for me to be here today. I therefore place the remaining years of my life in your hands.” (Nelson Mandela upon his release from prison)

8. “If you only visit two continents in your lifetime, visit Africa. Twice.” (R. Elliot)

9. The South African people.

10. The unique honor of witnessing a fledgling democracy take root.

11. There are 1500 muscles in the trunk of an elephant.

12. “No average black man can ever at any moment be absolutely sure he is not breaking the law. There are so many laws governing the lives and behavior of black people that sometimes one feels that the police only need to page at random through their statute book to be able to get a law under which to charge a person.” (Steve Biko, from “I Write What I Like,” 1978, during apartheid)

14. "I am one of those who believe that there is no permanent home for even a section of the Bantu in the white area of South Africa and the destiny of South Africa depends on this essential point. If the principle of permanent residence for the black man in the area of the white is accepted then it is the beginning of the end of civilisation as we know it in this country." (PW Botha, former South African Prime Minister during apartheid)

15. "I am sick and tired of the hollow parrot-cry of “Apartheid!” I’ve said many times that the word “Apartheid” means good neighbourliness." (PW Botha)

16. “If there are dreams about a beautiful South Africa, there are also roads that lead to their goal. Two of these roads could be named Goodness and Forgiveness.” (Nelson Mandela)

17. Double baked roasted butternut and Gruyere soufflé with brown sage butter and pine nuts.

18. Opening night in Cape Town.



PLEASE PASTE THIS INTO YOUR BROSER FOR "SA LINES" SLIDE SHOW:

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Comments

[ian]

wow!
Uncle Joe was right to be nervous!