Walking on Ice

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Matt Writes -

Sad to leave Buenos Aires we fly due south into Patagonia. El Calafate is close to 3000km south of the capital, deep in Patagonia and almost the end of the inhabited Earth.

The town itself was not particuarly charming, its existance now purely for tourism/overpricing and the constant gale blowing off Lake Argentina. However, it was the place to plan trips to the infamous Perito Moreno Glacier - the reason we had come this far, one of only two Glaciers left on the planet that are still advancing and not vanishing up global warming's arse along with with everything else that's naturally outstanding.

An hours or so drive in a bus brought us to Los Glaciers National Park where an entrance fee allowed us access to catwalks offering great views of this river of ice, moving 2 meters down the mountain a day.

Through a forest we walked with thunder that could be heard in the distance. Cracking, snapping the sound of a mountain in agony as this heaving mass forced its way down, calving a huge valley through the surrounding peaks. The trees cleared and onto a walkway with the expanse of the Glacier before us, a 60 meter vertical cliff of ice and a reservour of milky green water below, caused by sediments produced by melting ice.

The carving of a glacier is a sight (and sound) to behold as enormous shards of ice break free and crash into the freezing water. The thunderous sounds we had heard while walking through the forest was exactly this.

After eating lunch and staring at this specticale for a couple of hours we boarded a boat that took us to a shore near the side of the Glacier. Here, crampons were attached to our feet and guided by our ice axe wielding guide, we climbed up and onto the frozen mass. The undulating horizon of brilliant white was vivid contrast against the sky as we were surrounded by an unearthly landscape. Sink holes caused by running water produced chasms of pure brilliant blue. Taking a closer look could be rather hazardous as there was no telling how far down some of these holes went. Ice melted, re-froze and then melted again on the surface creating the illusion of walking on water. Nothing around us seemed normal or even natural.

Before our return to terra firma we were treated to a whiskey over glacier ice and being the chivalrous person that I am, I kindly helped Emma finish hers off ensuring a rather slurry, sleepy journey home.

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Photos

Sun up at Buenos Aires
As we board our plane to Patagonia

sundown on Calafate
Just over 2000km south of our Sunrise in the capital this eerie sky invites our first night in Calafate...

moom up at Calafate
...And as the sun gave us a beautiful dusk, the moon behind introduced the night

Bring me Sunshine.
Break in the cloud produce a ray of light that beams across the wall of ice.

Wall of Ice
Rising 60 meters above the water, the Perito Moreno Glacier.

Look he's behind you
Moving at 2 meters a day, may not seem that fast but we don't think we would stand in its way.

Spintered Ice
Constant movement creates enormous chasms in the ice - nasty fall

Under Ice
At the Glacier's edge you can look underneath

Big G Says High
Although there was no thunderclap, angelical harps nor miraculous actions

Ice Trekking
Another band of merry tourists...They must of heard about the whiskey

Cool Blue
Running water creates holes that smooth the ice and create holes of pure ice

Walking on Water
Ice holes re-freeze just to make tourists take snazzy photos like this

Ice Tipple
Whiskey over Glacier Ice. How about that for a pick me up after 2 hours with crampons on?

Road back to Calafate
While everyone slept, we took in the view

Comments

[Dave]

A nice look at el calafate
Matt, I was looking at photo's and blog remembering being there. great work. Salute Dave www.travelblog.org/bloggers/amanda---dave

[UNCLE Richard]

what a terrific way to spen a year. your mum (Chris to Matt) passed on the link I'll be watching for the next installments Richard