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Published: February 2nd 2008
Here they come!
Photo credit: Skip and Cathy MoyerAh, the Kuna people of Panama. Sit down and let me tell you more.
The Kuna people are indigenous to the Darien highlands of Panama, but moved to the coastal islands around the time the Spanish arrived, and made a living trading with English buccaneers and other visitors. They live in closely packed communities and are fierce guardians of their main income source, the coconut (they even post couples to live on isolated islands just to protect the precious nuts). More recently, with increased exposure to cruise ships and private yachts, they are finding a new way to make money; the Mola!
Kuna women are mad about molas. The moment you drop anchor, they paddle out in their dugout canoes and push molas like theres no tomorrow! Dont
dare say "No Thank You"; Kuna women are shrewd businesswomen and could hawk molas to a nudist colony!
The outer islands (Chichame, Lemon and Holandes cayes) are the big leagues. Kuna women carry molas on consignment, and if you try to bargain, theyll whip out a mobile phone from their bra, call up the maker, and coordinate the wheeling and dealing.
The mola in fact, is so important to
Buy this Mola!
Let the barrage begin! a familys income that it cements her power in the family unit (although they are traditionally a matrilineal society anyway). In fact, when a man marries a Kuna lady, he packs up his belongings (sometimes just a machete and some clothes) and moves into his wifes hut.. with her inlaws, hammock beside hammock!
If a family rears only male children, the youngest is not only encouraged to sew molas, but often become a woman entirely. Homosexual and transgendered individuals are a fairly common sight in the territory, and this makes for great "Nature vs. Nuture" debates! Is it a choice, or just a society where people can be themselves? Feel free to discuss amongst yourselves...
So what is a Mola? A mola is a reverse applique sewn fabric (normally 3 to 5 layers thick), traditionally depicting geometric shapes, often Kuna symbols (triangles are popular, but the official Kuna symbol, the swastika, is understandably rare on molas now due to low sales demand..). Recently, due to tourist demands, the depiction of animals is becoming more popular. Small molas sell for $1 to $5, and large molas sell from $5, most often $20, up to $80.
The best molas
No! Buy THIS Mola!
Maybe I better just buy all the molas. feature tight stitches; the closer and tighter, often the better. Notable Mola "masters" are Venancio and Lisa - ask for them by name!
Where does the Mola fit into the Kuna wardrobe? First, only the women dress in traditional clothing. Typically adorned with a red or orange bandana, a nose piercing and gold earrings, face painting (usually red cheeks or a bold line down the forehead and nose), intricate beadwork on their arms and legs (called uini) and a colourful flowing skirt (usually blue with orange patterns). The piece de resistance is their blouse; lightly coloured, airy with frills, the blouse is a bit old fashioned looking, but when the mola is stitched on the front and back, it really completes the look.
Some might say the Mola ties the outfit together.
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roy webber
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Great pictures Clive-Fill up these chips-AND KEEP THEM SEPARATE FROM YOUR CAMERA-you know what I mean!-Dad