Advertisement
Published: January 10th 2008
Edit Blog Post
Received a 5am wake up call. But this was more of a natural wake up call. It sounded like someone next door to me fell out of bed. But noone was around. It was an avalanche! With my eyes closed, I started doing the math in my head. It sounded close, so if the snow came towards us, it might make it over the ridge where we slept. But then, I was on the second floor. But then, this teahouse was made out of balsa wood....
Later, I found out the avalanche was close, and it was big. But it was not on our path.
The buddhist monastery for which this town is named, Tyangboche Monastery, has actually been knocked down on more than one occaison in its more than 100 year history. But by earthquakes and fire, not yet by avalanche (to my knowledge).
...it was early still, so i fell back to sleep.
7am sharp, the buddhist monks began to hit the prayer bell and sound the horn. I looked out my window and there was everest staring me in the face. The sun was already hitting the big peaks. So, my cue to start the day.
The daily walk was pleasant. I tried to keep my head up so I could stare at everest, but at the same time not take a fateful step into the yak dung that covered the trail, or walk off the side of the trail, which would put me 700 feet down into a glacial ravine.
Stopped for lunch in Shomare, 13,300 feet. At this point, I have to wonder why I brought so many warm clothes. My special north face jacket was meant for the nepal winter, but its near 60 degrees outside, and the sun is shining. So far, I got more use out of this jacket in Japan. But this isn't to say i'm complaining. Many times by late December, this path is covered in snow and ice, and our trek would have ended at Thyanboche. So, for this time of year, we are setting into a trail we normally couldn't cross! And the sun keeps shining, and there are no clouds.
Still, though, the heat is taking its own toll on me. My blisters are becoming pronounced, and my steps are geared towards minimising the uncomfortable feeling. But so far, the elevation has not been
a factor (and I've only been doing half a dose of diomox).
Ahead, is a herd of himalayan tar (like a mountain goat but with a nicer coat and head display). They are graceful as they jump from one rock down to another level of rock. But one actually got stuck on a massive rockface, with full exposure to a raivine far below. Me and Buddhi watched the Tar find its way around the rock, but it seemed stuck. 10 minutes later, the tar made a dash, scaling up the face of the rock and back into the trees!! We were both happy to see it made its way out safely, but for sure we never expected it would or could take the angle up the rock like it did!
Much of the walk involved passing Mani stones (life stones/memorials). The holy way to pass them is clockwise, and so this usually meant taking the more difficult route (up) around the stones towards Dingboche. But i guess this would make our way down easier.
As we reached Dingboche (just over 14,000 feet), I noticed I had a little headache. But i figured the sun was so strong,
it was probably the culprit. I was not short of breathe, and I think the pace of the trek has been relaxed, so I am not worried about the elevation.
At this elevation, my biggest worry was how to use the bathroom. I had already spent the previous evening learning how to squat the hard way. Now, at over 14k feet, I could not expect to see another western toilet until we made our way back down below 12,500 feet (to kumjung). And at this teahouse, which is probably the nicest I've seen yet, I have a private squatter all for myself! Now that's luxury.
The atmosphere in the dining hall was especially memorable. It was me, Buddhi, Phorbu, and the owner and his wife, sitting in a huge hall meant for probably 50 people, around a yak dung heater. The sun was going down and the owner turned the dining hall lights on. But even with the solar powered lighting, you could just see enough not to walk into someone, and barely make out the outline of the food. But the tasty meal didn't need lighting, as I devoured the tomato sop, chapati, and tuna spaghetti as soon
My Bed Setup
One Flannel liner, one down sleeping bag, two hot water bottles, two blankets! I was NOT cold. as it clanked onto the glossy wooden table.
After dinner, I went to grab my water bottles. These would keep me and my camera equipment warm at night, literally saving us from freezing. As I walked outside, I thought about my dad telling me to take a report of the stars. So, I looked up. Immediately, a shooting start whizzed overhead, and then coming from the other direction a satellite made its way across the sky. The sky was alive! And it made sense to me. At this elevation, I was almost 3 miles closer to the sky. This made everything closer and easier to see. I could just about make out the Sirius insignia on the side of the satellite! And I knew that what I was looking at was not an airplane. Because at this elevation, I was as high as the airplanes! Even a lowflying 747 flying at 30,000 feet would only be 15,000 over head; not to mention it would be on a direct course for the tip of everest which lay only a few miles away!
Back in the dining hall, the owner's wife turns on the radio, which is a buddhist chant.
She lights a candle and kneels to the floor for prayer.
I walked back to my room and jumped in bed, even turning on some music for the first time since my flight from MIA to LAX. Immediately, I felt homesick. It was amazing how a little music from home reminded me of everything I had left behind. It took some will power to turn off the music and read myself to sleep. I knew the trek would not be getting easier any time soon, and the support from everyone at home was more than half of what had got me through to this point in the first place. It wasn't about letting anyone down; but not as though anyone really cared where I wound up, as long as I am safe. Rather, I used my family as my strength to get me here, and I didn't let the music turn me around.
Advertisement
Tot: 0.119s; Tpl: 0.011s; cc: 10; qc: 50; dbt: 0.0582s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1;
; mem: 1.1mb
Shiruba
non-member comment
Excellent!
Eriku-kun! Love your travel blog! Wish I could be there! Are you still there or back in the US? For some reason, I received an email for this entry only today, while it says December 24th...! Anyways, HAPPY NEW YEAR brozah!!!! And to anyone else who reads this blog too!