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Published: November 26th 2007
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Loi Krathong (Thai ลอยกระทง) is an annual festival held on the full moon of the 12 month (of the lunar calendar, usually in November), whereby people release krathongs (banana leaves with flowers and incense) into the river to honor the Goddess of Water,
Phra Mae Khongkha.
According to the story,
Nang Nopamas, a royal consort of King Ramkhamhaeng (the founder of Sukhothai), made the first krathong as an offering to Mae Nam. She set it afloat on one of the canals of the palace so that it would drift past her lover the king. The king was delighted with the creation, and thus was the origins of the saying that if two lovers set a krathong adrift and it stays afloat until out of sight, their love will last forever.
So... needless to say (but I will anyway), Loi Krathong in Chiang Mai is one of the biggest events of the year, and people party with fireworks (lots and I mean
lots of fireworks!) until all hours of the morning, the streets are jam packed with hanging lanterns, music, food stalls, shopping stalls, candlelit vigils to the Lord Buddha, and (my favorite) every couple of feet a group of
family or friends is releasing a big white 'Khom Loy' into the night sky with the belief that misfortune will float away with the lanterns...
The relasing of the
khom loy is most spectacular in Mae Jo, a town just outside Chiang Mai. This is where I went with my friend Tue, and a group of her school friends. Around sundown we piled into two cars and drove to the event, rocking out to a mix cd of Thai hip-hop, pop, and even ska. 😊 It took over two hours in congested traffic to park and then walk another 2 miles or so along with a swarm of people (and parade floats) to the site. Once in, we stood in a field next to a pile of monks on risers, listening to the Buddhist prayers and meditation sermon.
Finally, after a ceremonial flash of fire and smoke, the signal was given to the audience to light and release their khom loys. As the lanterns went up the night sky was filled with beautiful paper lamps that floated up and turned into a cacophony of stars in the milky way. It was amazing-- I am stumped for words to
decribe it.
The best part of watching the khom loys being released is the anticipatory build-up as people hold the edges of the lanterns, waiting for the fire to build enough hot air inside to sail away. Then, once it is ready, their fingers let it go and the participants' faces light up with cheers and they clap and shout happily together-- triumph! Away with the bad energy!
After the main crowd released the lanterns, the monks came back from the wat to release their own, they get to play too. The monks are all relatively young, and when I questioned why some wore cell phone earbuds tucked into their robes, I was shocked to learn about the 'new wave' Buddhism here in Chiang Mai, whereby {rich} monks are allowed to have certain possessions, such as mobiles and ipods. I think traditionally, monks are not to have possessions, like money or material objects, they are not allowed to buy things, and they refrain from such "distractions" of the material world. However, like it or not, this is no longer the absolute standard. Which is sort of confusing to me, because where do you draw the line?
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The following day (Sunday) Tue and I piddled around town on her motorbike-- we tried to go to the vegetarian society and art film showing at CM University, but both were randomly closed. Instead, we drove around her campus and wandered the markets-- she taught me about so many foods I am always staring at, like fermented green milk tea-- and looked through the cheap clothing and backpack stalls, before I went back 'home'. At 7 I met Madlen, a friend from Sukhothai, at the Teipai Gate, the old fortified entrance into the city. We wandered the Sunday street market, always a fun way to pass the time, staring at the millions of handicrafts and food stalls.
Together we climbed up on top of the crumbling brick gate and watched both sides of the streets, full of people and lanterns, music and excitement. She is going back to Germany the same day Chris will arrive in Chiang Mai, so while I'm assuring her that she has plenty of time to visit the beaches and relax, she assures me that my time will fly and he will be here in no time. 😊
We didn't expect more Loy Krathong
festivities to be continuing even after the full moon, but there was a parade, stages with pop singers blasting music through huge speakers, even more markets packed into the soi (little side streets), and shoulder to shoulder pedestrians... We eventually made our way east to the bridge crossing the Ping River, and were overwhelmed by the amount of fireworks and explosions shooting off into the air. Our ears were ringing, but we stuck it out to watch the madness-- so many people lighting krathongs, khom loys, shouting and laughing...
Finally, we had to turn in and walk the long stretch home. I'm so glad to have met up with her, otherwise I may not have ventured out this evening and seen more celebrations. When I had arrived back at Eric's in the evening, Troy was playing on the TV, right at the part where Brad Pitt explains to the girl that "...the gods are jealous of
us... because we are mortal and everyday could be our last. That makes everything we do or see even more beautiful... because any moment could be our
last.
We will never be here again..."
And I kept thinking when I was
sitting at the top of the old gate that I will never, ever be here again to witness this moment. I have had one Loy Krathong festival in Chiang Mai, Thailand, and it was amazing. 😊
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Tobie
non-member comment
.....speechless....
Court - These are some of the most beautiful pictures I've ever seen! You captured that lantern release meticulously. That has to have been one of the most memorable things you'll ever see...it's all downhill from there! Kidding. I think the epic adventures are just starting for you... Love your detailed blog. Keep it up. Chris (your husband) and I eagerly await the next entry! Take care Court. -Tobias