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Published: October 31st 2007
Huangshan
Chinese tour-group!Hello all, its us again. Since we last e-mailed we have travelled for 3 more weeks around Eastern and Southern China and we are still having a brilliant time.
After leaving Shanghai, we travelled to Huangshan in Anhui province, which was a 12 hour train journey away and is known for its picturesque villages and for the Huangshan mountain. After visiting so many big cities we hoped to experience peaceful rural China, however thats not quite how it worked out. On our first day we went to see two nearby villages called Hongcun & Xidi which were both listed as World Heritage Sites. Unfortunately they were about as remote as Blackpool and there was even more tat on sale. They were beautiful architecturally, however there were very few genuine villagers to be seen and most people in attendance were either Chinese tour groups or art students. This was our first introduction to the phenomena that is 'Chinese tour groups', we don't exclude ourselves from the tourist category (we know we sound like hypocrites) but the tour groups were overwhelming due to 3 factors; a guide at the front carrying a flag for everyone to follow, the guide using a megaphone
Huangshan
Kim at Hongcun Village where the volume is on the loudest possible setting and finally just for good measure every member of the group sporting an identical baseball cap! On the way back from the villages our minibus took us on a detour to a silk factory (obviously in the hope that we would be tempted by the silk P'Js on sale), here we were treated to a catwalk show to display their wares and to try and part us from our cash - it was very random!
The next day we had arranged to visit Huangshan mountain which we thought would offer some respite from the crowds, however as it turns out this is one of the most visited tourist sights in China even though it is 2.5 - 3 hour climb to the top (on the easiest ascent). It was absolutely mobbed by tour groups, Chinese tour groups are one thing but its a different kettle of fish when there thousands of people up a mountain on narrow ledges and steep inclines. We hoped that the view from the summit would make the climb worthwhile, but unfortunately the mountain was shrouded in fog so we couldn't see a thing, except for
Huangshan
Andrew at the lake surrounded by tour groups flags and caps! We made our way down the mountain on a more difficult route and if anything it was even busier, it was very narrow and we had to queue most of the way down - it was a like bad day at Alton Towers! I'm ashamed to say that I was getting so wound up by the pushing and shoving on the near vertical slopes that I had to hurl some general abuse beginning with the letters F & C - sorry!
For our next destination we decided to check out China's south-eastern coastline and headed to Xiamen. Even though the train journey was 20 hours we met some great Chinese people so the hours flew by. The bloke we met was so excited that he kept ringing his mates to tell people that he was sharing a cabin with English people and even passed the phone over to Andrew for him to have a chat. Here we really chilled out, it was so nice to be by the sea. One of the highlights here was the amazing seafood markets which were full of random delights including a donkey face (Kim had to do a double take)!
Huangshan
Hongcun - a quiet moment The fish were all fresh, some had been cross-sectioned and were so fresh that you could still the contents of the intestines and the heart beating - very appetizing! Gulang Yu, an island opposite Xiamen, was beautiful containing old colonial villas and lovely beaches, perfect for a paddle.
We then headed west to Guangzhou which we probably remember most for the amount of exercising going on. In the morning and afternoon Chinese people of all ages congregated in the local parks for their daily exercise routine. Having eaten so much Chinese food, I thought I would give one of the exercise machines in the park a go, I was knackered after 2 mins - too much beer and fried noodles, the bloke beside me put me to shame! I needed a spring roll and some steamed dumplings to get over it! Kim also got a dose of vegetables here which made her very happy as up to this point they had been few and far between.
Whilst on the subject of food, we've noticed that Chinese people tend to order a lots of different dishes but only eat a small amount from each. The problem we have is
Huangshan
A second and final quiet moment in Hongcun! that we order a range of dishes like the Chinese (when in China) but eat them all, so you may notice an extra chin every time you read a new blog! Still, it is absolutely brilliant going out for a Chinese every night. In fact, I've enjoyed the food so much I keep toying with the idea of pitching a stall in Camden selling all the brilliant Chinese food that you can't get back home (shame I can't cook!).........I'm telling you steamed dumplings are an absolute winner, they're so good I'm beginning to look like one!
Hong Kong was our next destination, and was only an hour and three quarter train ride from Guangzhuo. On arrival, we went for the budget option in the lonely planet otherwise known as Chungking Mansions.........although they should probably rename it Nelson Mandela House, Peckham! It was a tower block in Kowloon, and probably should have been demolished years ago. Despite this it was still 3 times more expensive than any accommodation we had stayed in so far. From that point we knew that budgeting in Hong Kong would be difficult - so we thought sod it and headed straight to the Soho bars
Huangshan
This was our advice before we scaled the mountain! on Hong Kong Island and had it large! We would like to add one claim to fame, the lonely planet quotes the Park Guesthouse, Chungking Mansions Room 1504 as having the "smallest bathtub you'll ever see," by coincidence this is where we ended up and we can confirm that it does!
Hong Kong has a fantastic skyline (as you will already know) and atmosphere. It felt different from mainland China, it was very cosmopolitan with New York-like avenues, lots of bars similar to what you would find in London and loads of shopping (warning no.2 to Laura, Jayne & Kate). We loved it, and even warmed to the mansions! However, I was quite happy to get back on the travellers trail as I had left all my decent clothes at home! (Although at one point I felt so untrendy that I had to buy a denim skirt, a top and some new flip flops..not quite budget travel and I think Andrew was relieved to leave in case I really did go shopping!)
After a few days in Hong Kong we thought we had better try and win back all the money we had spent and try our luck
Huangshan
The extent of our view at the top of the mountain - well worth the 2 and a half hour climb! in the casinos of Macau (also known as the eastern Las Vegas). It goes without saying that we lost all our money in 5 minutes but it was only the equivalent of 5 pounds so not too disastrous! We spent an evening in the city and had a look at a couple of Casinos including "the Sands" which has been exported from Las Vegas. It was absolutely massive, we both felt a bit out of place in our travelling clothes and Kim didn't approve of the free shows which featured western girls in thongs prancing around on stage.
Macau used to be a Portuguese colony, and you can really tell as the atmosphere and architecture is very European. It was unlike anywhere else we had visited in China. Macau is known for its Portuguese egg tarts and roasted meats, we tried both of these and they were delicious, some more things that can be sold on Andrew's stall.
We then travelled to Guilin via Guangzhou. In Guilin we visited the Dragons Backbone Rice Terraces which are amazing terraces cut into the mountains up to an altitude of 800m - the views were really spectacular!
That takes us
Xiamen
Friends we met on the train between Huangshan and Xiamen up to now, where we have spent the last 3 days in Yangshou, a town close to Guilin in Guangxi province. We arrived by boat having travelled on a cruise down the Li River. We were on a Chinese tour boat (if you can't beat them join them), but instead of hats we were given stickers to wear. I was amazed when I saw a lady wearing a Spurs shirt, although she had no idea who Tottenham were, I think she only bought it because it was made by Kappa. That brings me to another point, Spurs need to raise their profile out here, no-one has heard of us. For example, I was talking to a taxi-driver in Guangzhou about football, he told me that he loved Ar*enal and that they were very beautiful. I told him they were cheating scum that I was a Spurs fan and hated A*senal with a burning passion. His replied again that A*senal were a beautiful team, at this point I realised he couldn't understand me and didn't have a clue who Tottenham were, in resignation all I could say was "Mate, I'm a Spurs fan."
We have had a great time in
Xiamen
Gulang Yu Island Yangshou, cycling around the stunning countryside and kayaking down the Li River. We met a lovely old lady on Moon Hill selling drinks, you couldn't refuse a bevy from her. Some people may feel slightly concerned when they envisage me with a bike given my history, all I can say is... Dad don't worry there were no lampposts! and Dee it wasn't moped and there were no Kamakazi chickens! However Andrew seems to have taken my place with a bicycle classic. The other day we were cycling along a thin path with a drop into some bushes as I turned the corner I just saw his back wheel disappear over the side. When I caught up with him he was on his back, legs spawled out, bike on top of him, stuck in a ditch about 6ft deep! It was just a few scratches, a villager helped me get him and his bike out and her friend gave him some cakes as I think she felt sorry for him. He is absolutely fine and we have been laughing about it ever since!
I think the villagers helping us out, sums up how friendly and helpful Chinese people have been
Xiamen
Kim at the beach in Gulang Yu towards us in our time here. You should probably take what we said about tour groups with a pinch of salt! We have had another fantastic 3 weeks here, and the best thing is we have another 3 weeks left. where we would have hopefully reached Tibet.
Missing you all, update us on any news and we will be in touch soon.
Love
Kim & Andrew
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anonymous
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Wow - the view from Huangshan looks just like the view from the top of Mount Bromo! It's so unfair to be 'rewarded' for a 3 hour climb with thick cloud - maybe Alton Towers is the way to go after all?! Also very glad to hear the age old tradition of trying to con westerners into buying a load of crap they don't want lives on. I just question what' wrong with westerners in flip flops on stage? ;o) (sorry, I've become aussified with the thong thing!) Sounds like you're still having the best time and lots of laughs along the way. As usual, not too much to report from here - work gets in the way of all the good stuff. When do you get to Aus? There's loads of good music stuff etc on this summer so if we know when you're here we'll start seeing what's on....