Darjeeling, I love you

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It's a nice foggy day here in Darjeeling. Just perfect for sitting and catching you all up. Up until yesterday, the days have been sunny and clear and you could see forever. This is just the beginning of the end of the monsoon season in India so it's still subject to rain and mists.

I left Kolkata the night of the 3rd on the overnight train up here. Trains in India are the way to travel when it's possible. They are not so expensive and very dependable. Plus, you don't get caught up in traffic jams on trains. I discovered one neat little fact. As a senior, I get 30% off. So, instead of a 3 tiered (6 person) carriage, I bought a 2 tiered, 4 person and it turned out there were only 2 of us in it. Me and some Indian man. Although, we were given very clean and respectable bedding, I have to admit that, with that guy in there, I slept in my clothes. The only 'little' problem was that we had to share the room with a few cockroaches - but they weren't the big ones, so I tried to ignore this teensy problem and got at least some sleep.

After arriving as close to Darjeeling as one can get on the train, I took a shared jeep to Darjeeling. It reminded me a bit of transportation in Kenya on the local matatus - but not as bad. There were only 11 of us in ths jeep (driver included). Of course, we had to wait for it to fill so that took at least an hour to get the requisite 10 passengers. Finallly we left. It is a 3 hour journey by jeep. And, oh the roads. I think we travelled at a 45 degree angle - well, at least it seemed that way- the entire trip. And, on the outside lane all the way up. I re-discovered that I really truly do not like driving on mountain roads with sheer drops. I know it was beautiful, because whenever I 'peeked' I could see for miles in all directions, including down!. Most of the time, I focused on looking at the up-hill side of that road and praying at each and every turn that the beep of our drivers horn was actually going to be heard by anyone coming down.

Of course, we finally arrived (otherwise no blog entry). On the way, I had asked some of the passengers how I could get to Andy's Guest House, which I had reserved. 'Oh, there are all sorts of porters and you walk with them. You just hire one and he will carry your stuff for you". Well, yes, there were porters, but the one whose turn it was for me was a woman that probably weighed 50 pounds less than I do - and she was no 'spring chicken' either...although, doing that work for a living, she could have been a worn out 20 year old. I wanted to tell her 'no' so bad, I couldn't bear the thought of her carrying my 40 pound suitcase, plus another bag that probably weighed over 10. But, of course, women's lib and equal opportunity beliefs whispered in my ear that if I insisted on a guy, I would be taking a job away from her. The jeep passenger had told me all I would have to pay was 30 rupees ($.75). She said 50 and I didn't even have the heart to bargain. I felt like paying her 2X that. Anyway, she curled (can't remember how to spell the past tense of wind) this big cloth over the top of her head, hoisted my suitcase on top, grabbed my bag and slipped it on to her shoulder and off we went...almost straight up hill. I was huffing and puffing all the way up (of course, on my behalf, one has to realize the oxygen is thinner here and I had just arrived - however, to be honest, after 4 days I still huff, puff and sweat climbing up and down these hills).

We did finally make it. I didn't doubt she would. I was more worried and about me. Andy's turned out to be a gem. It'll probably be one of the best places I stay in Inida. I have met volunteers, teaching at the municipal schools here who have been here for a while and they said it was closed until just recently, being refurbished. They did a wonderful job of cleaning and painting and shining the place up. I was smart, too to call ahead because, while I am on the very front edge of the 'season', it is already filled each night.


After getting these essentials all in place I was out the door to invetigate. What a place Darjeeling is. Brief history. It was discovered by some British officer during some skirmishes with 'unhappy' locals back during the time of the Raj. When he reported back how beautiful and cool it was, right away negotiations took place with the king of Sikkim, who ruled the area, to 'rent' the area and build summer homes up here. It never gained the 'popularity' of Simla, a Raj hilltown built northwest of Delhi. There, they actually finally started movng the government to Simla during the hot, horrid months of the Indian summers. But, still, there were lots of summer homes and hotels built here. Plus, it was discovered that tea grew here and the Brits were trying to figure out how to break the Chinese monopoly on tea. And, does it ever grow. Almost all the green you see in the distance in the pictures I am posting is tea. Hills and hills and hills of the Darjeeling tea, which by the way, if you get the good stuff, is delicious.

The first morning here I decided to go easy (one really does need to acclimate to this thin air), so I decided to hike up to this Tibeten Shrine that is not so far from the center of town. On my way, I noticed this back gate to this beautiful looking courtyard and veranda. Well, my friend, Sharron, was just so envious that I was going to get to see Darjeeling because it's always been a little dream of hers to sit on the veranda of one of these old Raj hotels and drink tea and look out over the hills. Aha, I thought, this looks just like the place she described. So, on my way down, I asked if I could come in and have tea, which I did. And, sharron, it was just like you imagined and even more.

Here I am sitting, alone, on the veranda, with my tea pot and its very British tea cozy. First comes along this Scottish couple. He taught in a town near here for years. We sat and talked and they said they were on the way to Bhutan. My exclamation was, ' You sure must have made more money teaching than I 'cause I certainly can't afford Bhutan (it costs about $500 a night for the hotel rooms). Well, he said, "One of my students is now the king of Bhutan and we are going to be hs guest'. Now, this was an interesting encounter, if nothing else had happened.

But, after they left, these two British guys came out to the veranda, sat down and started talking to me. I joined them. They were a father and son. The father is somewhere around my age. Turns out he was born in Kolkata, where his father was an official and both of his parents were born in India. So, he was traveling with his son, who happened to be between jobs. He was telling all sorts of stories about his parents time (he didn't remember too much about his time because they left before the Brits entered WWII. It was so interesting, listening to all his old stories, but then, another older gent (n his mid-to-late 70s) comes on to the veranda, joins us and he was born and lived in Darjeeling until he was 6 or 8. His father was a high mucky muck in the local governement. He even took us into the hotel (the Windermere, by the way) and showed us pictures of his father that were on the walls of the hotel.

Then these two old timers started in, as certain classes of Brits frequently do, talking all about the times at Oxford and their experiences on the rowing team, etc., etc., etc. Plus, they told me what is was like to have parents that were part of the Raj government. The most astonishing piece of information was that, at between 6 and 8 they were all shipped off to England boarding schools and didn't see their parents for 3 years. Can you imagine. They both had it happen to them. Anyway, it was truly a great experience....which is good, because that pot of tea (which was delcious), cost me what my room at the guest house does for a night!! So, Sharron, I thank you for the tip!

It is now 3 days later, and we have been sitting in a cloud this whole time. There are some who are only visiting for a few days and they haven't seen any of the view. I met a young Japanese guy in Kolkata who had traveled through Tibet, Nepal, and Darjeeling - and never seen the mountains. What a terrible disappointment.

For me, since I got to see the beautiful views, this mist and fog is not so bad. Darjeeling is just such a pleasant place to be in. There are lots of Nepali and Tibetan people here. The result is that there isn't the constant yelling at you or trying to get you to buy somethiing or give out money for something you don't need. They are very pleasant to be among. And, when you can see the area, you simply can't be anything but awed by the beauty.

Tomorrow I leave for Sikkim. I will miss my friends, Sunam and Purin, in whose little tiny restaurant near my guest house I ate every meal, except one, since I arrived. I know that is terrible but I love feeling like I have a place where I feel comfortable and welcme. Besides, Sunam can cook better than almost anyone I know - that means all of you back home. It is western food, but I figure I'll be eating Indian for a long time, so I'm enjoying it.

The stay has been great here. Plus, I have had quite a lot of exercise, just getting around. As you can see by the pictures, there are not many flat areas anywhere closeby.

I want to get this out, since I don't know how hard it'll be to find and internet cafe in Sikkim. So, will close for now. More later.

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Photos

Darjeeling
This is only a partial view of Darjeeling. But, it gives you a good idea of its setting

Windemere Veranda
Here is the old Raj hotel I talked about. Lovely view from here.

The real Windermere veranda
As you can see, I am still being defeated by this program. The last picture was of the town square, the Chowestra. There are benches along two sides and people sit here, talk and people watch.

The Himalayas
It's 6:00 am and we have already watched the sunrise over the Himalayas. This is a picture of me and lovely young French girl. Guess which is which.

Sunam and Purin
I lived at their restaurant and considered this homebase for the past week. They are lovely people, Nepali....one Hindu and one Budhist - interesting, huh!

Comments

[Jerri Sly]

feels like I am there
Hay Sweetie, with the pictures and the way you can tell the story it feels like I am right there with you. Love ya! Jerri

[Donna]

Good for you!
So many people travel and think that the adventure is only museums and scenery. What a stroke of luck finding these people to chat with about life in India. These are stories that you will never hear from a tour guide--and stories that you will never forget. Good for you for being so open to these encounters! best, Donna