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Published: September 29th 2007
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Arrived in Kunming last Saturday (22nd Sept). What a crazy chaotic country this is. First two days extremely stressful with the huge culture difference and communication barriers. Saved by employee of the month at Kunming airport who found us a clapped out van and drove us round Kunming looking for hotel and ATMs. Now have spent 5 days on the road and much more comfortable. Passed everything on the roadside leaving Kunming - dead pigs, live pigs, pony carts, pedicabs and an old man holding aloft what appeared to be a curved walking staff, but on closer inspection, as we passed, was a very large, very alive snake - that night's dinner presumably. On the road we stop at roadside "eateries" and select from the available ingredients. I like to think that we have introduced a new classic to the Yunnan gastronomic repertoire - "Two Foreigners on Bicycles Soup" (main ingredients butter beans and Pak Choi).
Passed through Anning and stayed in sheer luxury for 8 pnd including breakfast. Receptionist had apoplectic fit when we wheeled bikes through immaculate foyer, but we then managed to secure a private box with attendant guard for the bikes. Was the mid autumn festival
and were taken to a restaurant with locals all out celebrating with banquet meals. Our agonies over choosing food invariably attract a crowd, but we managed to order our own excellent mini banquet by inspecting sample dishes. As the food arrived two waitresses approached with questions which we didn't understand - turned out the manageress just wanted to come over for a game of Charades. Which she duly did, and kicked off with an excellent mime of the shower scene from Pyscho. No-one on the Peart Team guessed the answer, so it was thrown open to the assembled crowd of waiting staff - to no avail. Richard was then dragged off to the drinks room to select our tipple.
The next day rode to Lufeng and stayed in somewhat basic accommodation, for the princely sum of 2 pnd. Went into what we thought was a restaurant but it was just a bar, where our request for food produced an assortment of roasted sunflower seeds, chestnuts, peanuts and beans in pods. Odd diet, but the left-overs did breakfast the next day. Had an excellent meal in another restaurant, following a tour of the kitchen food store to select the ingredients.
Next day saw us in Chuxiong in even greater luxury for just 8 pnds with a stonking breakfast. However, the next night was in a place which I called two towers (from its chinese characters - never saw its pinyin name anywhere, and it was at the back of beyond) was rather different. The room can only be described as a bijoux hovelette - it had two beds though only one had a mossie net, a light bulb, a stone floor and a resident mouse and cockroach. The toilet was the public one across the road in the pitch dark. Not quite as bad as the one in death valley, or the one at the beginning of the film Trainspotting, but worth avoiding. A young lad appeared and rustled up an excellent meal. Locals subsequently came along to take a look at us, and whiled away the time smoking with some kind of hookah instrument. We passed a couple of hours playing scrabble, which attracted a crowd of onlookers - greatly interested despite not being able to understand a bit of it. The most Pythonesque moment was when a young women walked in complete with intravenous drip and assorted
lines and bottles and sat happilly infusing. Spent the night hermetically sealed in sleeping bag and liner - far too hot, but wasn't going to expose myself to anything that hadn't been washed in Persil non bio very recently. Didn't sleep much despite being lullabyed by the resident cockroach, preferring to worry about Hanta virus and Chagas beetles instead. For the sum of 3.50 we got a room, a dinner, a bottle of chinese liquor and an unforgettable experience.
Now in Dali having done about 500 km on very variable roads. Fairly mountainous - had 50 km climb one day. Once out of sprawling cities, surrounded by rice and corn fields. Only uncultivated land is at the top of mountain passes. People very friendly, helpful and honest. Bikes doing well, but rear brake blocks already replaced. Will update you all when we can, but internet is rare. Technology not up to posting photos. Phone also seems unable to get voice mail. Anyone wanting to contact us should try text.
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Kerry
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Deepest China
WOW! Sounds like you are having a fantastic time. Really enjoyed reading your blog. It's a far cry from Skeggy! Look forward to the next instalment. Kerry