Last Days of Phnom Penh: Pesto, Yaba Induced Motos, and Sunsets

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Last Days of PP.

After getting confirmation that my Visa for Vietnam was good to go, I was able to book my plane ticket to Saigon. It’s the only country that I’ve been to that I had to get it AHEAD of time, which as I found out was kind of a pain in the ass. The more I think about it though, had I arranged the Visa prior to going to seim Reip, and flown from there to Saigon, that would’ve put Ron on the bus that had the accident. So it all happens for a reason, I guess.

My last day was spent on the internet mostly, and booking the plane, and all that other fun and exciting stuff you want to hear.

There is a lake in the middle of PP; it is home to some of the dodger walks of life, as well as the cheaper accommodations for backpackers. I had yet to see the fantastic sunset that people would rave about. The weather was behaving, so I decided that I’d give it a go, and have a few beers and shoot a time lapse of the sunset (I have shot a TON of time lapses, and will edit them together and post when I return).

I’d been to the lake side area few times, and always came away with the same semi grossed out feeling one might get from any of the back alley’s that offer all sorts of evils to any one with money. This sort of scene gets old after a while; these days it only takes about 10 feet of the alleyway to become old, but I still was in search of that perfect sunset.

I sat down, set up my camera, and NEW gorilla pod, and got a beer. The owner of the place was this middle aged burnt out Frenchman. He told me that he was closing the place in a few weeks. I inquired why. Was it due to lack of business, because it seemed that Cambodia had been on the up and up in the past 10 years; maybe a little TOO MUCH of the up and up. He told me that after the rainy season they were going to fill in the Lake, building high rises, and condos, with Chinese and Japanese investors. I asked about the CAMBODIAN residents of the area. His answer didn’t surprise me when he told me that they’d be fucked, basically.

As much as the dodgy drug pushers, hookers, and pretentious and semi obnoxious travels that flock that area, I don’t know if I’d trade that for high rises for the rich.

I know the next time I visit PP, it will be completely different. I'm sure some you that have been there in the past few years will also be blown away with its “development.” I use that term lightly, as developing isn’t always about building condos and buildings, but also a society and economy that functions for the people, something that seems to be lacking.

We’ll see where Cambodia end ups in the years to come.

I got a GREAT time lapse; one of the best sunsets I have been able to capture. After the beers and the sun were gone, I hired a motorbike driver to take me back to the riverside area, so I could visit my favorite restaurant one more time.

It came no surprise to me when the motorbike driver offered me everything and anything one’s little heart could desire while in the heart of PP. What did shock me was that he was doing this while weaving the bike in and out of traffic, constantly taking his eyes off the road, and looking back to me to ask me if I wanted this or that. I have to say the quote of the trip so far is this (as we weaves in and out of traffic):

MOTORBIKE DRIVER: You want to buy some China White (heroin)?

DYLAN: No, dude, I just want you to drive safely, if you do so, I promise you a tip. Just spend more time driving the bike and less time trying to sell me shit, ok.

Looking back on it, it was PP in a nutshell. A yaba (speed) induced motorbike driver offering you drugs while sailing through the traffic of PP, while I was clutching to the back of the bike.

I arrived at what had become MY FAVORITE restaurant in the city- and probably some of the best Italian food I have ever had. They have Pesto that rivals my mom’s homemade! The owner, an older gent from Italy greeted me at the door, and apologized that they were full (its very small). I told him that I’d be happy to wait for a seat in the best joint in town. What blew me away about this place was kitchen. To get to the bathroom you have to go through the kitchen, which is about the size of a closet; 4 little burners, a cutting block, a tiny oven, and a small sink with 4 Cambodian women running around.

Woke up this morning, sipped some coffee, and packed my bags. Just got into Saigon, which is VERY different then PP. the lack of PP’s dust is nice, but I’m sure the diesel fumes will make up for it. Only been here for a few hours, so I am off for a stroll.

-Dylan



PS.the Italian resturant is called Cafe Pop -its on the riverside

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Comments

[LD]

'Nam
Hey Dylan, Not sure how long you have in Vietnam, but if you have time I recommend heading up the coast to Hue (far). It's a fairly small city right near the DMZ so there's lots of war history there as well. Had the best view of authentic Vietnamese rural/village life from the back of a motorbike. If you make it there, go to "Cafe on Tu Wheels" and the feisty cafe owner and her brothers will sort you out!

[Marinos]

Pesto
Deb, if you are reading this, shame on your son for what he said about Cafe Pop's pesto! Jordans Dylan, Jordans!

[Annie]

This is truely the best way to start the day... your blogg and some dark ass coffee. Be safe. xoxoxo