Pocari Sweat and Water Trout

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My first entry. It was meant to happen two days ago. But circumstance has delayed that. So there's a fair bit to get through. In addition, I'd some great photos to include but I frustatingly formatted my camera's memory in a fit of finger-fumbling madness. So that'll have to wait till next time. This is the first of hopefully many entries on my 5 1/2 month trip. Japan is good place to start as the language barrier can't get much more challenging. Until Korea probably.

Tokyo is not much like London.　The beggars don't beg; the taxi drivers wear shirts, smart trousers and sometimes even ties and waistcoats; and people on the metro talk to you and give you their business cards. I arrived in Tokyo after an uneventful flight, brightened only when my Japanese neighbour engaged me in conversation. Arriving in Narita and making my way North to my hotel in Minami-senju was also uneventful and much easier than I was expecting. When I arrived at the hotel, I found myself a little disappointed for the Tokyo I first saw was grey, squat and ugly.

The three days I spent in Tokyo were long and arduous: 8, 9, 10-hour stretches of pounding the boards. In an effort to get off on the right foot, I flexed a little linguistic muscle to befriend two French people I had overheard in the lobby. They were happy to head out with me and I spent most of the subsequent time with them.

Tokyo is also a hard place to 'see', espcially in three days. However, I feel that in my meanderings I got a grasp of it and I liked it a lot. Highlights included: Shibuya at rush hour, with more people crossing a road than I've ever seen; Yusukuni-jinja shrine, where Japan worships its war heroes and villains; standing in the middle of Electric Street in Shinjuku, dazzled by lights and signs. For me, the ultimate was the view from the top of the Tokyo Metropolitan Government building at night. The view stretched for miles around, with red aeroplane warning lights blinking amongst the white glare of the rest of the city. I'd hate to estimate the electricity costs for running that lot.

By chance, the French that I met spoke excellent Japanese, greatly easing my immersion into Japan. They also had friends in town from Okinawa, who I met on the first night. We ate Okonomiyaki, or "fried as you like", essentially a DIY savoury pancake with whatever ingredients you choose. Then, I had my first Karaoke session, where I witnessed the bizarre performance of such classics as "Don't Look Back In Anger" and "Hotel California" by my hosts. Unlike the British pub pastime, this was taken very seriously, performed in a small booth in a very refined fashion, polite applause following each performance. On stating that Karaoke is not as big in England, I was met with the reply of "what do you do for fun"? Quite.

Leaving Tokyo was supposed to see me climbing Mount Fuji but the inability to book transport due to it being the last weekend of Official Climbing Season, had me instead jumping on the Shinkansen (Bullet Train) to Kyoto.

Kyoto was a great antidote to Tokyo. Often bemoaned for its crushing of cultural treasure under a weight of depressing concrete block buildings, I actually found it had a nice feel to it. The hostel I'm at is fantastic and I'd highly recommend it to anyone (www.j-hoppers.com). I stepped into the lounge area to find two friendly Aussie's, a Canadian and (most importantly) an acoustic guitar. Heaven. I made fast friends and my first night was spent wandering the beautiful, bustling Gion district and enjoying rice and Tofu in an amazing hidden traditional restaurant. The chef cooked in front of us, the waitress was Geisha-like in her smiling, bowing attentiveness and barely 5 words of English were spoken throughout. We were hilariously interrupted by an old drunken Japanese man with his Mother, who entertained us while we finished up. I'd recommend the place but have no idea what is was called and would probably struggle to find it again.

Today has been a long trek between temples and shrines (Kyoto's speciality) with Aussie's Matt and Ben and the end of the day saw me templed out. A shame because tomorrow I'm heading up to the legendary Golden Pavillion. Best get back in the frame of mind.

So far, so good, minus the immensly irritating photo fiasco. Well, it won't happen again I hope. Next time I write, I'll probably be in Osaka or Hiroshima. Till next time.

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Comments

[Stevo]

Dan, it sounds like you are having an awesome time- shame about mount Fuji, i was looking forward to hearing about your climbing effort! Pleased to hear that you are befriending some Aussies, they may need some consoling after next weeks ashes defeat. Keep enjoying yourself!