Crossing the border - fleeing a civil war

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Ecuador is a small Andean country of approximately 13.3 million people. Over the last five years thousands of Colombian refugees have crossed the border to escape an escalation of armed conflict amongst the military, paramilitary and rebel groups, and the hardships created by drug eradication programs (spraying coca crops with herbacide) in southern Colombia.

The reception to refugees by newly elected president, Rafael Correa, has been positive and he has promised to incorporate them into the economic and political life of Ecuador. The feeling amongst the Ecuadorian community is on the whole positive, although it´s not uncommon to hear the odd muttering of a racist comment.

The violence and eradication programs have displaced as many as 250,000 Colombians since 2002. Only one-third of applicants have been granted asylum and thus many thousands of Colombians continue to live in Ecuador without protected or legal status.

In light of this, a benefit concert is held every year to raise awareness of the plight and contribution of Colombian refugees in Ecuador. Hosted by several community organisations it consists of a two day festival incorporating traditional and contemporary music, dance, culture, art and food.

In the beautiful Itchimbia Park, stunning views of Ecuador and the surrounding mountains provide the backdrop for the community event and it is well attended, primarily by refugees themselves.

I was fortunate to be invited to the event by one of the organisers, a young Colombian refugee who hosts a regular radio program on Colombian culture and human rights. Whether or not the fact that I was the only gringo attending the event contributed to the overwhelmingingly positive reception I recieved I am not sure, but I was welcomed with open arms and felt very honoured to get the chance to talk to many people.

The aroma of wonderful food punctuated the air at every turn and I was fed copious amounts of traditional food all day (I did my best to avoid the guinea pig). I learn´t how the majority of Columbian coffee is exported and how much Columbians love chorizo. I was grateful that my soup didn´t have a little foot or hand waving at me unlike the pig that I found staring in my direction.

Colombian honey is apparently famous for its antibacterial properties and I narrowly avoided being stung by a bee as I was smothered in cream and sipped on wine made from the honeycomb. Popcorn, granola biscuits, cakes and icecream are all popular. Amongst the gaiety there was also a serious side, and information on nutrition, how to prevent aids and who to call for help with medical problems or assimilating into society was readily available.

The artisans displayed their wares and I couldn´t help but indulge in the handmade jewellary and textiles! Chatting to the stall holders I found that most were also scheduled to preform in either a band or dance troupe and I promised to stay and watch their group. Normally accustomed to being hounded in markets to buy local goods at inflated prices it was a welcome change to feel like a friend rather than a walking cash machine.

Many Colombian´s are from African heritage and at one point I was dragged up to join the colourful, gyrating afro-samba dancers. I displayed my moves until I physically couldn´t breathe anymore (damn altitude!). Exhausted, I collapsed back onto the grass amidst congratulations and big smiles from onlookers. I later learn´t that my dance partner was also the ex boxing champion of Colombia!

The kids had a ball with balloons and face painting and I continued to be amazed by the agility and energy of the young dancers. One young boy adorned with bells and shiny satin danced with such passion it was hard to imagine him not being somebody famous one day.

As the sun began to set behind the mountains, I walked away from the dwindling crowd, pockets full of email adresses, belly full of unknown food and heart full of the pleasure of meeting people who have so much to give.

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Photos

My new friend Cindy
She is learning English and we practised with the colours

Colombia´s answer to P Diddy
He rapped for at least 30mins and improvised with comments about the crowd much to everyone´s amusement

The best of columbian coffee
Two new friends, Dario and Mari Luz, both regugees

My awesome friend Benjy
The radio presenter who helped organiser the event

The little superstar
Watch this space....

Traditional highland dancers
They were wearing super high red stiletto boots....no idea how they managed to dance in the grass

Dancing the Bomba
The girls danced emphatically without the bottles moving an inch. I guess if one fell it would be the bomb

How´s it going honey?
The wine tasted terrible and the cream smelled bad but the honey was delicious

Comments

[Rob]

Hi Mel! Excellent story to read, must be have been a nice experience to be around these locals! Apparently for me it is possible to still learn new things about the beautiful continent as well! Keep enjoying yourself! Rob (from Holland)