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Published: June 15th 2007
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TheMaster Of Nets Garden, Suzhou
The Master Of Nets Garden, Suzhou Look out 'obsessive compulsives' I actually enjoyed that last train ride. I am really starting to appreciate the harmony of a well packed bag, where everything has its rightful place. When I boarded my Suzhou bound train in Beijing, I found myself organizing my things and my self, until they were centimeter perfect. I slotted perfectly into my bunk, bag at my feet and essentials; book, mp3 player and water, strategically placed beside me. I was Zen, an extension of my pack! O.K I also took a valium so I could sleep, it may have altered my perception.
Anyway I was heading to the well renowned Suzhou, situated in the south of Jiangsu Province with Shanghai about an hour to the east. Since almost half of the area of the city is covered by water, in the form of vast ponds, streams and canals , Suzhou is praised as the 'Oriental Venice'. Taihu Lake, which is predominately situated in the territory of Suzhou, is one of the four largest fresh lakes in China. Built in 514 BC, Suzhou is an ancient city with over 2500 years history. The unique characteristics of the past are still retained in the present
Imperial Courtyard, Master of Nets Garden, Suzhou.
Imperial Courtyard, Master of Nets Garden, Suzhou. day architecture. Strolling through the streets, you can feel the unique charm of this town, still lingering in its long history.
Perhaps Suzhou's most famous assets though, are its traditional gardens. These gardens attain their high reputation not only for their vast numbers, but also for their charming natural beauty and ‘harmonious’ construction. At present more than 60 traditional gardens are kept intact in Suzhou, and a series of them have been listed on the World Heritage inventory, including the one I visited in the afternoon after first arriving, “The Garden of Master of Nets”.
This particular garden was first constructed in the Song Dynasty (1174 A.D.) and originally named “Fisher’s Shelter”. Its present layout and name came into being the Qing Dynasty when it was acquired as a residence for a local Chinese prince.
Consequently it is indicative of a typical private garden; the Master of Nets Garden is characterized with its splendid water scenes, its perfect proportions and its exquisite design. It really is something special, its architecture promotes deception, as through its intricate use of walkways and courtyards it conceals its small size. This was truly a fascinating insight into a Song Dynasty residence,
The Bund, Shanghai.
The Bund, Shanghai. its tranquil use of water was only accentuated by the light rain that fell while I was there. I strolled through this beautiful place all morning, stopped to drink tea by the pond, and bask in the serenity. I very rarely bumped into anyone else and was truly captivated by this place.
I wandered many of the intricate canals that lace through the town and then jumped aboard a small ferry for a lap of the Grand Canal, which encircles Suzhou. I spent the rest of the evening trying to orgainse train tickets through Shanghai to Shenzhen. As unfortunately, I only just realised it is nearly time for me to leave China; it has also just come to my attention that I am quite a long way from Hong Kong, from where I have a flight on the 16th.
The next morning I was up early, being the only non-Chinese, in my dorm I was up at 5 am with everyone else, and before I knew it, I was coerced out of bed, and curb side devouring bags of steamed pork buns for breakfast, with the rest of my dorm..
That afternoon I took the one hour train into Shanghai for the last leg of my Chinese adventure! Originally, Shanghai was a seaside fishing village but in time its gradual development has led to it being today’s multi-cultural metropolis, with both modern and traditional Chinese features.
After arriving I managed to navigate the subway system to my hostel, situated just off East Nanjing Road. After stowing my pack, and donning my wet weather gear, I found a great meal from a street side Muslim vendor, fried noodles only 85c AU, he said it was beef, its vest if I believe him.
That evening I wandered Nanjing East Road all the way to the Bund. The Bund is one of the remaining vestiges of Shanghai's colonial period. Zhongshan Dong Lu Road, or as us Westerners call it, the Bund, parallels the western bank of the Juangpu Jiang River. It was here that the European, American and Japanese built their banks, trading houses, consulates and hotels. Renovated by the Chinese as a tourist attraction and brightly lit at night it is a spectacular, and just walking the streets here felt as though I could have been anywhere in Europe, back at the hostel that night , I had a few beers and a good nights sleep.
The next day, my last in Shanghai, I just decided to meander through as much of it as I could, unfortunately Suzhou’s light rain had turned in to Shanghais’ torrential downpour, which didn’t make it easy. The short amount of time I had for both Suzhou and Shanghai have definitely not done them justice but, I am still really glad I made it to both.
And now that is it, tomorrow I have a 17 hr train ride back to Hong Kong, where I will fly to India! But what can I say about China?
China is much more than just another country it's a different world. Unless you have a couple of years, unlimited endurance and the language I don’t think you could even scratch the surface
From the ‘shop till you drop metropolises’ of Hong Kong to the desert landscapes of Xinjiang, or the historical Mecca of Beijing, China is a land of cultural and geographic schisms. It is a land both in the throes of dramatic transformation but yet somehow able to stay eternally the same. The thrill and trauma of change is everywhere as it is in a mad dash to turn itself into an ultra modern stronghold.
However when I first arrived in Hong Kong, I was on the hunt for the ‘authentic China’, but little did I know was that I was about to be immersed in it. As the sleeping giant that this is the real China us everywhere, an immeasurable sprawling area of unlimited diversity combining thousands of years of history and culture with the most modern aspects of civilization.
I am sad to be leaving China, more so than anywhere else to date. It has left me with many amazing memories and experiences. But now, with Rudyard Kipling’s “Jungle Book” in hand (I thought it fitting) it is time to transgress “through the looking glass” to India, where I’m sure an unimaginable adventure awaits.
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Paul Roberts
non-member comment
4th one from Paul
Aah, the well-packed bag! Something that I've never really got the hang of - the thing I need is always undetectable and then I accidentally locate it the next day in the 'secret pocket' that I'd stowed it in so that I'd be able to find it easily! China sounds like a real blast, Luke, although maybe a little daunting not knowing the language? I'm the sort of person whose knowledge of Chinese is ''Number 47 and a large steamed rice please." 17 hours on a train would seem to be a bit lengthy but I guess there's stuff to see as you ride. Even so, well done; I guess there's a reason that you're the only non Chinese around! So is there a cafe aboard the train or do you have to pack something before the trip? I'm only guessiong here but I imagine that a sandwich is not the easiest food to come across but there's probably a big use of plastic containers! But that's the way it is for the unseasoned traveller - we can only summise, you experience it. Safe travels, Luke, Marianne sends her best to you. Til next time, Paul.