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First things first. Everything is fine here in Turkey, at least for the tourists. I'm in the middle of Turkey right now. The bombing in Ankara (the capital) 2 days ago has relatively low impact on the tourists here. The only effect that I've seen is tighter security. As I'm typing this blog there are machine gun armed para-military men checking the Internet cafe and looking at everyone. To quote the words from a local here: stupid things happen sometime, all because people are a little different.
I thought of the title for the blog while hiking in the tuff (fertile compacted dust from volcanic dust ages ago) hills of Cappadocia, which is in central Turkey (I made a trail map of my routes in Turkey
Turkey Route). With centuries of natural erosion and man made carvings in the volcanic stone, the landscape looks out the world. Interesting enough, there is a famous myth that the first episode of star wars was filmed here. Sadly it's not true as its filmed in Tunisia. However, this place was the starting place for the first Christian community. With the natural caves and they found relative security and secrecy to practice their religion.
When Christianity became main stream this region was treated as the Oxford equivalent of the day, with people come from all over the world to study and become priests. The caves also served as home and shelter for the locals. Some stone caves are inhabited even today. I visited an underground city, completely man made, 85 meters deep, with 8 different levels of complex architectural design and ventilation system.
Back to the original topic. As a tourist, I am definitely out of place. So far I've been mistaken as a Korean, Japanese, Singaporean, a solider, and a monk from Butan. Never a Chinese. Sometimes its aggrevating, but guess we all look alike. In some country villages I get interesting stares asking "why are you here." Once I had a string of kids following me and imitating my walk. Didn't know I havea funny gait. Vice versa, I have came across many different practices here in Turkey, most of which I have already grew accustomed to. (Note: information below are only what I've seen, which is probably incomplete given my limited time here in Turkey. If they are different from what you already know, hey, I have nothings against admitting
being wrong).
1. Division of man and woman. In my long bus rides and country hikes, I saw mostly women working in the fields, herding animals, taking care of kids, and cooking. Generally speaking, men cannot be found in the open. Most of the time when I have located these elusive mammals they huddle together in town squares sipping tea or heading to the mosque. That's not to say men don't work. They run the businesses and "supervise" women. Not a bad gig. Furthermore, most of the time men and women eat separately, at least when there is a large group. Food is also served in individual portions or self serve at a counter. I have yet to see family style entrees here.
2. Singing minarets. Even though Turkey is probably the least conservative Muslim state, prayers are still conducted 5 times a day. You know when it's 5am when the mosque minaret loudspeakers broadcast the morning prayer. Then it's 1, 5, 8, and 10 (I think, but could be wrong). To some level, I find the singing prayers relaxing, especially in the entrancing landscape of Cappadocia, with the elongated vowels reverberating through the valleys
3. Turkish
flag and Ataturk. Turkish republic, along with the Latin based language everyone speaks today, was created back in the 20s after Ottoman empire was dissolved by a military hero Mustafa Kemal. He sowed the seeds for industrialization and modernization in Turkey. In turn, he changed his name to be "Ataturk," translating to father of Turkey. 80 years late, every town has a main street named Ataturk. His image is also imprinted on Turkish flags, which are omnipresent where every you turn.
4. Preservation of artifacts (or the lack of). Maybe its because there are so many historical artifacts and natural wonders here. There is absolutely no preservation. People walk over, touch, sit, and damage ruins at will. In Pammukale, where the travertine (calcium deposits build by mineral rich water flowing over time) is labeled as a UNESCO world heritage site, bus loads of people bath amidst the fragile travertine. Even though the tourists are contained in a restricted area fenced off from the main site, the water could be directed to free flow into the travertines that are already slowing in growth due to global warming. Furthermore, near the travertine there is the Roman city Hieropolis, which has the
Underground City Defense
Remember the rolling rock door from Indiana Jones? They got the idea from the ancient Christian communities in Cappadocia, who used this type of wall to fence off different levels in the underground city. It's operated by the hole in the middle of the door, which is also used for arrows. largest necropolis (above ground grave) in the world. Guess what's in the tombs: cigarette butts, water bottles, tissues, and other decomposing garbage.
5. Family size. Size still matters, and family takes care of business. In Pammukale I stayed at a hotel, and the owner, 70 years old, has 7 sons and 2 daughters. Now the sons run the tour company, bring guests to the hotel, and operate the hotel. The daughters in law cook, do laundry, and take care of other women business mentioned in point 1 above. He even gave me a business card, which belongs to his son in Hong Kong. Not too hard to guess that the prodigal son owns a kebab house there.
6. Sea food. For a country surrounded by water on 3 sides, sea food here is extremely expensive and fresh fish is hard to come by. In the Mediterranean town of Fetiye, known for its azure water, fish is as if not more expensive than Cappadocia, where land is much more barren. Anyhow, I went to Fetiye for the beach and the rock tombs bequeathed by the Lydians, not for the fish.
7. Cats and dogs. Literally, every where you
Local Male
That's his job. Giving flowers to tourists. turn you will come across few stray cats and/or dogs. Neutering, apparently, is a novel concept.
8. Translation. Given the amount of English speaking tourists here, you'd think the translations make sense and the meaning is kosher. Guess not.
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Max
non-member comment
Robert A. Heinlein?
I thought for a second that you were being raised by Martians. I love Kebabs, so I fully support your diplomatic effort in bringing more of them to China by educating the ignorant natives in Turkey about the differences between your superior race and the Koreans, Japanese, Filipinos, Aztecs and Monks. I will continue your efforts here in San Francisco, though I have trouble distinguishing between Shiatsus and Yorkis.