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Mt. Fuji
On the way to Kyoto A tired 1937 hours, 18 May 2007, and back in Tokyo after two full, exciting days in Kyoto. We left Wednesday morning for the countryside to visit ancient Buddhist Temples and experience more traditional Japense culture. The trip started out a bit in a rush, as Michi over slept and we missed our scheduled train. We were able to catch the next one out, and were fortunate enough to catch a seat in the non-reserved car, as our tickets were only reserved for our orginally scheduled time. I guess that's the advantage of traveling in the middle of the week before the major tourism peak season.
We traveled from Tokyo Station on the Bullet Train, which travels over 300 kilometers per hour. Even with the speed, we were still in for a two hour trip to Kyoto. As we progressed through the country, the huge city buildings and lack of space gave way to a rural landscape dotted with rice fields and Japanese residential architecture. Even got to speed by Mt. Fuji. What a site! This huge, looming and dormant volcano dominating the valley around it. Stunning. The one picture we snapped from the train window doesn't come close
Ninomaru Palace
on Nijo Castle grounds to doing it justice.
We reached Kyoto sometime after 2pm, and had another 20 minute bus ride to the hotel. Kyoto train station is huge, and crowded, with tons of city buses scattering tourists from all over Japan through out the city.
Our first stop after check-in was Nijo Castle, conviently located directly across the street from the hotel. Nijo Castle was built in 1603 as the official residence of the first Tokugawa Shogun, and wasn't completed until 1626. The architecture is reported to be a perfect example of "early Edo period building." The castle was added to over centuries, finally completed in 1867, and so reflects later architectural tastes as well. There are several palaces and gardens within its boundaries, which all represent different styles, too much detail to get into here of course. All of it is breathtaking, and humbling to know you are touring a remote piece of world history.
All the Temples/Castles close around 5pm, so we only had time for Nijo Castle on Wednesday. That evening, we headed into the main part of the city to wander the streets, people watch, and taste test various tidbits, and let the night do with
Nijo Castle
overlooking the grounds us what it wanted. Kyoto is the second largest city in Japan, and the main city area reflected that with huge department stores, business, and just plain big-city hustle. One removed area in the middle of it all was an obvious tourist attraction, but still presented a better "cultural" feel. The street was lined with high-end restaurants, and Geisha houses with little wooden reader blocks listing the names of the Geishas in the home. A lot of local women walking around in Kimonos and tradtional dress as well. A huge Kabuki theater dominates a corner back along a main artery through the city. Around 8 or 9pm, tired from walking around all day, and full enough from eating this and that, we decided to randomly approach a younger person and ask about a good local spot for a drink. The couple we initiated conversation with were quite happy to talk with us, spoke English, and directed us to a tiny little bar called Moonwalk. Again, on a side street, and on the 4th floor of a cramped little building. We were greeted with a bar that held 3-4 tables along one wall, plus some seating along the bar directly behind
the seating. Tiny, smokey, and obviously local. There were probably about 10 people in the bar, plus the bartender, and it was almost at capacity! Michi and I sat down at the only open table and ordered a beer. I was feeling a bit intrusive, and shy, to be sticking out so much in such an intimate atmosphere. But, Michi being the great socailite she is, struck up conversation with the people next to us, and before you knew it we were talking, laughing, and drinking it up with the whole place. All were college students from a local University and eager to have an American in their midst. Michi and I had planned to go to Nara Thursday, and then finish off back in Kyoto, but the students suggested we do both days in Kyoto, and mapped out a tour of must-see temples. As you'll see, we took their advice. We stayed for about 4 hours, and shared a cab at the end of the night with a couple people.
After a full night's rest, we were up Thursday morning and off after a short "American" breakfast at a little cafe nearby. First stop was Gikakuji Temple, a
Kennin-Ji Temple
favorite zen temple Zen temple established in 1482. This temple is reported to be the beginning of the "modern" lifestyle of the Japense. It was built by Yshimas, the eigth Muromachi Shogunate. Beautiful zen sand/stone gardens, as well as meticulous greenery.
It was on to Hein Shrine, built to deify two Emporers of Japan - one its founder, and the other a later ruler of what was once Hein Capital. The oldest structure of the shrine was built in 1895, with other buildings constructed as late as 1940. Huge festivals are held at this shrine during the height of the Cherry Blossom season, with particpants clad in traditional ancient dress. None of this was going on when we visited, but the structres hold plenty of drama on their own.
Our last stop of the day was our favorite of the whole trip. Kennin-Ji Temple, the oldest in Kyoto. A zen temple, founded in 1202. The rock garden here was breath taking. We were lucky enough to walk around on a not-so-busy day. Michi and I sat and reflected to ourselves and each other staring out at the rock garden. Absoulutely stunning in its simplicity. We both commented how it felt similar
to sitting at the beach and staring at the ocean. Indeed, the pattern in the rocks seemed to reflect waves. Extremely peaceful, and easy to see its aid in meditation. Amazing, really, and hard to articulate the experience.
We ended the day with an amazing traditional Japnese meal, at a restaurant Michi booked earily that day. Right along the river (don't ask me the which one), and outside, sitting on pillows on the wood floor of the restaurant, enjoying a set meal under the stars. I'm not usually one for tofu, but I'm here to expand my culinary horizons and went for it. Unbelievable. Such fresh, interesting ways of preparation, presentation, and flavor. Very healthy, and so damn delicious! We reflected on the day, and again dug deep into our mutual past and talked on past times, past loves, and how it's all currently influencing and affecting us today. There are few meals through out life that I remember and cherish as an experience, and this was one. A highlight of the Japan trip thus far. I'm hoping to post a blog dedicated to my culinary adventures while here, so look for more in the future.
Another great
Kyoto
Kabuki Theater night of sleep after a mutual back and foot massage from the long day of walking, and up and checked out of the hotel by 10am Friday. We had time for two more temples before catching our train back to Tokyo. The first was the Golden Pavilion, Rojuon-Ji Temple. Built in the 1220s. More beatiful structures reflecting various architectual styles, and stunning gardens. The main gold bulding has been restored with gold as it was orignially. The gardens, however, are reportedly as they were hundreds of years ago. It is all a bit overwhelming even after just two days. There is so much history, and so many temples, and quite a complicated lineage, that is is hard to fully appreciate the entirety of it all without years of study, I think.
Our last stop was Ryoanji Temple, another beautiful Zen sanctuary. This is Japan's most famous, but Michi and I agreed that the temple from the day before was more enjoyable. This temple I believe is featured in Baraka - a film that holds a special place for me as a lot of you know.
I realize I have posted quite a bit, and it's really only a
Kyoto streets
Taking it in.. brief summary of what the past two days have held. I suppose it will take some time to really process all I've seen and talked about and experienced on this trip. It's great to put a glimpse of here, and share as I go. I am once again shown how crucial travel is. Especially for Americans who, as Maya Angelou once wrote, are the only people who can travel 3,000 miles and expreince the same language and culture. Our country is in its adolescence compared with the rest of the world. I am so blessed to have friends internationally and be able to take advantage of it.
Well, that's it for now. Off to rest a bit, as Michi is out doing her own previously planned thing for a few hours this Friday evening. The weekend is upon us, and we have plans to party it up, so look forward to more pictures and a report of weekend rendevous!
The posted pics are but sample of the 141 we took over two days. Friday's pics didn't make it as we haven't had time to upload them all.
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Brendyn
non-member comment
Fun times
Sounds like Japan is all it cracked up to be - glad you're having fun...Though, I'm still waiting for the promiscuity to ensue ;)