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Published: April 30th 2007
Photos of "Hiking Madness" are now completely up to date and there are a few added to "Whirlwind" but I've had even more problems with uploading in Bolivia and my camera is currently locked away in the truck. Sorry!
Salta
On driving from Cafayate to Salta the escapades that hit our truck continued. We were supposed to be spending the first night camping at Salta Rafting, about two hours outside of Salta. This was an outdoor adventure haven with rafting, canopying and kayaking all on offer. The first issue was that even if we had got there we wouldn't have been able to raft because for the first time in 10 years they were tinkering with the dam upstream of the river. However we never reached Salta Rafting because the only road there was blocked by......a rock fall! There was probably space to get a car past but to get the truck past we would have had to start moving rocks and as some were still descending this didn't seem like a great idea!!!
So we had an extra night in Salta which led to a bit of drunken fun. Despite camping, and hence supposedly having camp meals, we decided to spend two of the nights in Salta eating out since they were our last in Argentina, land of the steak. On our first night we went to Sol del Convento and I had what must be my BEST steak in SA and generally in my life. Soooo tender, cooked perfectly to my liking (medium-rare) and with a delish sauce, mmmmmm. Wine at dinner and cocktails afterwards led to myself, Claire and Nikki partying the night away in a dance club on "disco street".
It was tres amusing as most people in there were 15-18 and dolled up to the nines whilst we were wearing scabby travelling clothes and jumping up and down. Apparently the local girls barely dance for fear of messing up their intricate hair dos! The only downside was that, rocking in at 5am, I realised I had accidentally left my charger and spare battery out in the shower block. As we were in a campsite where we had to pack away our stuff in the truck every day due to a spate of thievery, this wasn't the best idea! As expected I lost it, but thankfully I managed to buy another spare battery in Salta and another girl on the truck has the same charger as me, phew!
After a bit of a tent lie in, I had a chilled day in Salta the following day. A bit of a wander around the main sights, followed by watching "Shooter" at the cinema! Not the best film I have ever seen (ha ha, cheese central) but it was so refreshing to go to the cinema after 2 and a bit months. I then had to head back to camp as my cook group was on duty (spag bol - that was raved about I might add!) followed by yet another film!! This time 300. It think I am well and truly filmed out now, they will last me until my return.
Flying on a wire
For those that were desperate to get to Salta Rafting a day trip was organised as the road had been cleared enough to get a minibus through. Being the adrenaline junky I have now become I was well up for canopying. However this type of canopying was nothing like the adventure I had with Tom at Go Ape in the UK. We had to scramble up the sheer rock face of a canyon and then completed a series of 9 zip lines across, or along the wall of said canyon!! At one point we were 350m above the canyon floor!! Another activity that wasn't for the faint hearted!
I went first on the first line and loved every minute of it. There was a mixture of short and long lines and also slow and fast. My fave being the fast, long ones! Once you had mastered how to stop at the end it was great fun. I even did the "superman" which involved getting in a slightly dubious position with an instructer but was great fun. Instead of going along the line sitting in the harness I had to wrap my legs around an instructor and go down facing the ground with my arms out like superman. We ended the day zip lining into the bar area and stuffing our face with bbq. That night we were to stuff our face again with more steak at Sol del Convento as it was our last night in Argentina before hitting Bolivia.
Butch Cassidy Country
I think it was a slight shock to the whole truck how different the culture was as soon as we crossed the border from Argentina into Boliva. We were suddenly met with a majority of indigenous faces, as opposed to the European faces of Argentina and Chile. The poverty was also immediately apparent but with this comes a warm and vibrant culture and mostly extremely friendly and grateful citizens. The roads were also rather interesting!! This drive day, to Tupiza, is our driver's favourite for being the bumpiest, and twistiest and with loads of steep drops on one side of the road. And I'm not joking! The views were immense though and it was well worth it as we got closer to Tupiza and began to see the colourful rock formations.
Tupiza is reknowned for two things: the stunning red rock formations that come in both beautiful and amusing shapes (e.g. many a phallic one) and for being the area in which Butch Cassidy and the Sundance kid finally met their end. There were many ways to explore the surrounding countryside but a group of us decided that we had to do it on horseback in honour of the duo. 7 hours on horseback led to many a sore bum and calves, even for those of us who had ridden before. But it was well worth it! The ride before lunch was quite sedate and ended up at our very own campsite. But after lunch, with rested horses that were eager for home we had loads of canters across a dusty open river plain and waded through the river several times. The sights along the way were amazing, from narrow canyons, tunnels through the rock and strolls through green and fertile farming areas.
Driving to Tupiza was the first time that we experienced a prolonged period of altitude (we did cross a high pass to get to Mendoza but then came down again). Tupiza itself is at 2950m and several of the truck had horrendous headaches by the end of the day, with a few even having to throw up. My altitude sickness has only surfaced as a tiny headache on our first evening in Tupiza and slight dizzyness on the way to Uyuni but I was fine in Potosi so I must have adjusted by now. Still a bit breathless when climbing hills but then we all are. The Inca trail should be interesting!!
Photos without perspective
I would have loved to have stayed in Tupiza longer as it would have been great to do one of the longer three or four day horse treks around the area, staying within the local community. But sadly the nature of the truck is that it keeps on rolling, otherwise we'd never cover the distance that we do! Next stop was Uyuni, a small town on the outskirts of the famous salt flats. The town itself was a bit non-descript but the salt flats were one of the strangest sights I have seen on this fair planet. All the eye can see is blinding white salt in every direction. Sunglasses are a must to avoid blindness and quite a few people got seriously crisped by the reflection of the sun.
The flats were formed from an ancient lake that was cut off from the Atlantic by the rising mountains. The salt flats still contain water and so the salt that is collected from the outskirts has to be drained of water. Our first stop on our jeep tour round the flats was a small town where each family owns and runs a salt factory where they dry and package the salt. It is despicable how much salt these families have to package to earn a single dollar. This town is also where I met the sweetest little girl in the world who tried to steal my earrings, necklace and sunglasses at different points. I will try to get a photo of her in the sunglasses uploaded asap!
We stopped briefly in the area where the salt is collected into mounds to drain the water and then visited the salt hotel (self-explanatary) before heading to Fish island. This island is pretty much in the centre of the flats and was used by travellers as a resting point when crossing the flats to trade with other towns. It is covered in cacti, including one that is 1200 years old (just a very tall cacti really). The view from the top was one of blinding white salt in every direction with the occasional mountain or volcano on the distant horizon.
It was finally time for the moment we had all been waiting for. The chance to head off to a deserted bit of salt flat (away from all the other jeeps) and play around with the camera. Because there is no perspective on the salt flats you can do funny things with objects, making humans looking tiny in comparison to wine bottle etc. Please be patient and wait for mine, if I ever manage to find a computer speedy enough to upload them before my return! This was also a chance to get a bit naked! Whilst the boys headed off to do naked evolution of man, most of the girls got down to their knickers and did some arty ones on the salt! Not sure if those will be going on the blog though!
Silver Mining
Having got used to 3675m in Uyuni it was time to push the body further as we climbed up to 4070m and Potosi, the highest city in the world. Potosi was once made rich and famous by the silver mine that has eaten away at the red mountain overlooking the city. This past glory is apparent in the many colonial buildings, some of which have been up kept but some of which are sadly falling in disrepair. My one day in Potosi was action packed!
I began by joining the crazy group who had decided to have a tour of the silver mine. It wasn't actually as bad as we all expected having been warned of great wholes in the ground that we can fall into and drop 50m! We had a crazy little female guide called Sol who made the whole thing really safe and enjoyable. We started by heading to the miner's market and buying gifts for the miners. These included dynamite, coca leaves, special cigarettes, 96%!a(MISSING)lcohol and soft drinks! We also had to give food gifts to the women who organised the stores and facilities at each mine entrance and treats to their adorable kids.
We then got kitted out in our sexy mining outfits including yellow helmets and torches. Entering the mine we headed up to the top of the hill where the church is. It was a pefect spot for gazing down at Potosi and also for blowing up things!!! Our guide had bought a papaya and some extra dynamite and having named it George Bush we promptly split it into lots of little pieces! I still can't get over the fact that a) we could buy dynamite so easily and b) Sol lit the fuse in front of us and passed it around before trotting down the hillside with it! Jackie, our other guide, took the hilltop position as a chance to educate us a bit about the mine. The Spanish basically raped the mountain for it's silver and there is now very little good quality silver left so they now also have to mine tin and iron compounds.
The Spanish used local indigenous people and black slaves to work the mines, some of whom didn't see daylight for 4-6months at a time and consequently went blind. After independence and during the 1950s there was a brief period where the miners were fairly well off as they worked for the government, had houses and food provided for free and had free education for their children. But once Japan discovered plastic and the tin they were mining was no longer desired the government closed the public company. Gone were the electric and hydraulic drills and other eqipment. The miners are back using the same techniques as 300-400 years ago, working only for themselves, having to provide their own materials and only scraping a living if they happen upon a decent line.
It was quite heartbreaking meeting one of the miners whilst underground and seeing the gratitude in his eyes for the gifts we brought. The coca leaves he needs as they dull his sensitivity to hunger, thirst and tiredness allowing him to mine through the night. The alcohol and cigarettes it turned out were not for the miners but were an offering for the devil. Whilst all the miners are devote catholics above ground, below ground they believe in the devil. We visited a paper mache statue of the devil once underground and gave it alcohol and cigarettes to ensure safe passage in the mine. We all made it out alive despite having to be bent double a lot of the time and crawling up and down steep slopes in our welly boots! We had all safely donned masks as well, because as much as they insist that there isn't any asbestos in the mine apparently this is a lie! The average life expectancy of miners once they enter the mine is 10 years and some go in at 12-15. Sounds family doesn't it: Victorian England!
The afternoon was spent wandering the streets and the market and visiting a convent that was stacked to the rafters with gold! A very big contrast to the poverty of the miners. What I love about the streets of all the towns/cicites we have so far visited in Bolivia is that they are packed with stalls and little old ladies selling all sorts of goods, mainly edible ones. Most of these women still wear the traditional dress which involves sandles, colourful tights, big pleated skirts, black top hats and huge bundles tied to their backs. I am still amazing by the distance some of these women can carry these bundles through the countryside.
Llama fetuses
Which brings me to La Paz, our current location. Having been briefed by Tony our driver about the crime rate in La Paz and previous truck incidents we are all being very careful. No cameras (I'm using a disposable), no cards, no backpacks and just enough cash for what you need each day. Although I have been out and about all day and felt perfectly safe, despite clocking a few would be pickpockets. Had a lazy day exploring the streets thanks to the Lonely Planet's city guide. Wandered through the packed streets of the black market where everything from screw drivers to jeans are sold. Another interesting stroll was through the Witches Market where each shop or stall offeres llama fetuses (to be buried under your house for good luck), love potions, various herbs and mixtures to cure every ill.
Did LOADS of shopping due to the abundance of lovely textiles that are very cheap once you are happy to barter a bit. Haven't been that impressed with the silver though, which has come from Potosi. Most off it has been pretty shoddy or awful designs. Need to hunt some more me thinks. The only crazy moments today was when we stumbled upon a big demonstration in the main square. Seemed fairly peaceful but the number of armoured police with riot shield and tear gas wasn't making us feel too happy. They have a habit of jumping in unneccessarily in Bolivia so we stayed well clear. Will re-visit that square tomorrow in addtion to the art museum and the coca museum having put my money away to stop me spending any more!!!
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Anna
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BOLIVA!!!!
OMG I'm just about ready to pack everything in and come out to join you again. Everything you've described has brought back so many good memories. I loved La Paz - if you do the downhill bike ride you're mental - it was the most terrifying day of my whole entire life. Some of my favourite photos are from the salt flats, had any rain fallen yet - it's meant to be amazing when it's wet and teh sky reflects in the water - looks like you're walking in the sky! (apparently! I was still blinding white salt when we were there). How hot were the guys at the salta rafting place? was joquin still there? some of the girls from my group were considering getting off the truck there and living in north argentina forever. all those boys must have the time of their lives with new gringa girls being dropped off everyday. Oh do you ever bump into my old truck (Bukima?) or the Kumuka truck with Linda as the guide? I f you do can you tell her Anna and Guy say hi! Have an awesome time with the rest of Boliva, Peru and Ecuador - inca trail still to come!!! It's breath taking, I think the trail is actually better than actual machu picchu. and then the jungle!!! so much to look forward too! Lucky lucky girl! Keep having an amazing time anna xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx