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Published: March 30th 2007
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Hola Amigos!! Hows life in your corner of the globe? Southern Chile has proved an awesome way to spend the extra week we had up our selves after getting through Argentina quickly. Slightly more expensive than its neighbours, but with so much to see and do here it has been worth it. We hired a car and drove south from Santiago, navigating our way onto the Pan American Highway. The roads were great, and should be as the road tax costs an arm and a leg!!
We found out way to Pichilemu, an awesome black sand surf beach on the Pacific, which is slightly off the "Gringo" trail, and a must do for any surfer. The waves are massive, and go on and on and on. We really wished we had taken Blair up on those surf lessons at Christmas and got amongst it, but instead we enjoyed the peace and quiet of the place. Marcel the Dutch florist has a fantastic hostel right on the water and a great restaurant, all the best to him. It was at the end of the season, so we had the place to ourselves which was fab after all the big cities
and lonely planet travellers.
From there it was on to the adventure capital of Chile; Pucon, and rightly named. We knew we were up for something special as the landscape changed from vineyards and orchards to something that resembled Lord of the Rings with mountains submerged in mist, and rivers flowing with waterfalls. It was cloudy on the night we drove in after a gruelling 8 hour trip, so it was not until the following morning that the spectacular volcano that towers over this town was revealed. There was only one thing to do of course......climb to the top, and slide all the way down!! We were slightly surprised when we were armed with an ice pick, crampons, and all the wet weather gear we could carry, but was ALL needed believe me! Foot by foot we reached the summit, and got an eyeful of molten magma!!!! Totally amazing experience, and they had actually grooved into the snow a luge run, which we used to slide down on our backsides in hired waterproofs. Before we left Pucon we also did some white water rafting (totally hooked), and meet some great new friends. What a little jem of a place.
We stayed a night longer than anticipated due to Pucon being such a hit, and it was onto Puerto Montt, which is the gateway to the South, and what a hole!! One interesting experience we took away was a night with a witch. The Lonely Planet had said something along the lines of "the owner/artist has a moody disposition", but we always love meeting interesting people, so went along for the ride. It was a crazy house, of which we were the only inhabitants, except of course the artwork, which covered every wall. The owner was just like a witch, and did not like girls, especially ones called Nicole, but thankfully Callum smoothed the edges with his gentlemanly ways and we got out without a spell being cast upon us (well none so far touch wood!). I was so fascinated with this place I have included the photo of the hostel! Actually there was nothing else at all in Puerto Montt worth photographing.
The point of heading South was for two reasons. Firstly we had heard that there was an amazing National Park called Torres del Paine, and secondly there was a cargo ship called the Navimag which
would get us there. Apparently backpackers for some years with more time than money have been begging a ride from this cargo ship to get to the deep south, so finally they put in some cabins and made a thing of it. It took 4 days, and 4 nights, and we were actually on there with loads of cars and some poor horses, but as we cruised along we saw whales, dolphins, seals, penguins, massive glaciers, icebergs, and some truly spectacular scenery. Well worth the trip, although there was one stretch which had us all hurling over the side of the ship. Not at all fun, but thankfully it did not last for to long.
So, now we are in Puerta Natales, and tomorrow we head off into this National Park for some more adventures. We have hired a tent, jackets, and have loaded up our packs with 5 days of lightweight food, and are going bush, this time with out a guide. There is something really unspoilt about this sliver of the globe, lakes, rivers, mountains and mysteries.
The plan after that is to head North, so we are flying back to Santiago and busing our way
up into Bolivia thought the Atacama desert and salt plans. Going from the deep south to the far North in a week might seem something of a logistical nightmare, but down a glass of pisco sour, slurp a fresh oyster, and think; when in Chile.....
Until next time!
Nicole and Cal
xx
Highlight: Whales, Lava, Rafting, Volcanos
Lowlight: Vomiting on the Navimag!!!
Best Munch: Seafood/Meat BBQ with Kara and Jonson
Best Gulp: Carmenere wine
Rate: 8/10
Interesting Fact: The live volcano last erupted in 1984, we meet some retiring Kiwis from Hamilton, who where set on buying land benith dispite this!!!
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Sonia
non-member comment
Hello from me the mother
Hi Nic and Cal - As you continue on your adventures I marvel at the range of choices you have to explore. A quiet Sunday night here - tidying up bits and pieces. Have been extremely tired and wonder if it is related to the altitude training. Fraser has felt no effects. His knee has swollen with a combination of lots of tennis and walking and some days too long on his feet. He will give the tennis a miss now and get it back to good health. Blair's at the movies. We are off to Rozeta and Ken's for tea Tues night so I think we'll stay the night. I hate driving home so far at night when I'm tired out. Enjoy the national park. Love Sonia