Arrived in Delhi

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Well here I am in Delhi after the most stressful start to a journey. My tube decided to break down on the way to the airport. I still arrived 2 and 1/4 hours before my flight was due to take off, but then spent an age queuing to check in and then discovered the longest queue I have literally ever seen for security. Finally got rushed through that as my flight was to take off shortly, discovered that they now make everyone stick their shoes through another x-ray machine (I really think that if Heathrow is going to insist on all this extra security, they ought to get sufficient tools to do it), then discovered the departure board said that my flight was closing, so ran through the myriad of corridors, only to discover another massive queue...

The flight itself was ok (especially compared to my last long haul with American Airlines), although I was sat next to a woman who seemed to have a thing for either stamping on my foot or elbowing me every time I was about to drift off. Good choice of films though - I got through Borat (hillarious) and the History Boys (a bit annoying).

Landed in Delhi and was relieved to see that the airport pickup hadn't run off without me, although the hoardes of demanding taxi drivers preparing to take me off and force me to stay in their friends' hotels didn't seem to exist. I'm also relieved to see sun. I'd forgotten what it was like, but let me tell you, it's very nice.

After dumping my stuff I decided to go off for a wonder. Had a curry, since that seems to be the thing to do, then decided I wanted to go to Humayun's Tomb. I seem to be situated in a hugely busy area of Delhi and wandered on to a main road with traffic all over the place.

And so I got into one of the auto rickshaws and got my first taste of Delhi traffic. Absolutely terrifying. There seem to be no road rules (the signs at the roundabouts saying 'give way to traffic on your right' are utterly redundant). People just weave in and out and frankly they must all be really good drivers with amazing reactions, or they'd all be dead. I considered buying a motorcycle helmet from a road stall. They have a habit of honking to warn that they're about to reverse into each other, but since the honking is pretty much permanent, I don't see how that works... The roads are insane, filled with these auto rickshaws, bike rickshaws, proper cars and the odd 4x4, and the occasional cow.

Anyway, I survived my journey, but discovered the tomb had just been temporarily closed due to a swarm of bees appearing. Which was a shame as it looked impressive. So I went back to my rickshaw driver and told him I wanted to go to Lodi Park, so he drove me to India Gate. I had an argument with a gang of rickshaw drivers and finally got to the park with my very contrite driver. It was absolutely stunning and worth the argument. I wanted to lie down and go to sleep, but Driver was expecting me back so I contented myself with admiring the pretty flowers and the buildings - Shish-gumbad apparently, built during the rule of the Lodi Sultans (1451-1526). You could climb all over them. Really lovely haven in the midst of Delhi.

I found Driver again and we started to head back, but then we passed an amazing looking building - the (or a?) Hindu temple. Stopped and had a look around it. All the signs were in Hindi, so I'll have to look it up and see what is written about it, but it was very pretty and impressive. Also drove past the first shanty towns I've ever seen in reality, including one set up in the middle of a roundabout. Imagine living on a roundabout, and not just a British roundabout, but a Delhi one.

And now I am back in my neighbourhood, having no doubt been incredibly ripped off by Mr Driver. But then, how much would you pay in London for your own private driver for half a day? Probably more than a fiver... I came looking for an internet cafe and have somehow ended up in a hotel's office. Will try and load pictures now and then probably go to bed, since I haven't slept in about 36 hours. Funny to think that, 24 hours ago, I was in an office in Old Street.

Tomorrow I am going to see Taru's aunt (Taru, if you read this, I spoke to her today) and collect my train tickets. I also want to see about doing this Hidden Tour of Delhi, run by Master Guesthouse. Possibly see if I can get sunburnt, just for novelty value.

I've heard you either love or hate Delhi. I'm feeling quite a fondness already, although it is very chaotic. I suppose that's part of the charm...

Love Virtual Rach xxx

p.s. photos uploaded (as you can see). In doing so, the computer presented its blue screen of death to me, then, when it had recovered and I was trying to find the photos to upload, I came across the hotel's porn stash. Time to go.

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Photos

Delhi Traffic
Delhi Traffic

Shish-Gumad
Shish-Gumad

Pretty flower 1
Pretty flower 1

Comments

[Fern]

Aren't you lucky!
You can now request another £4 from London Transport! I will faithfully print out all your blogs so that when I go to India I can avoid all of your mistakes and just make ones of my own. The rickshaw driver looks almost as dishy as Sigi. Sage address is: B-1 Mohan Cooperative Industrial Estate (not as pretty as Lodi Park I'm sure). Ring 4053 9222, x242, and you'll get straight through to the man. Keep us posted!

[Mum]

comment on episode 1 - arrived in Delhi
This is definitely the way to stay in touch! Sounds really exciting already, though I am not sure I like the sound of the dance with death on the roads. I have subscribed to your blog and should get emails when you add further episodes. Let me know if adding comments like this is a satisfactory means of communication or if you would prefer emails. You will be thrilled to know I have ordered a new printer - much like the old printer / fax/copier but hopefully with more energetic paper handling. Love MumXX

[Patrick]

Hope you're having a fun time. Try not to get into any fights over rickshaws or men. A shame you couldn't get into Humayun's tomb - you should try again when the bees have been wiped out. If you get the chance could you ask a local where St Martin's Garrisson Church designed by Smoosmith is and better still get a photo? Will email my new address for a postcard x