G'day Mateys

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Thanks for all the help with the visa. We finally have 2 30-day visas to Vietnam in our hot little hands. It only took blood samples, dna testing, retina scanning and over $200 USD. We especially appreciated the "expedited" service that took over a week.

We hadn't really planned on coming to Australia, figuring that we wouldn't be able to do it justice in the time we had but then we got through New Zealand a little faster than we thought (for those of you who've driven with Peter, you can understand...and sympathize) and we figured, why not, we're in the neighborhood and likely won't be again for a while.

So, we changed our flight back to SE Asia and flew to Brisbane with the sole intent of getting out to the Great Barrier Reef and getting a tan on the East Coast aka the Sunshine Coast. The Sunshine Coast did not disappoint. Apparently, Australia is experiencing the worst drought it has had in 100 years. Too bad for them but just what we needed. I've got some pretty weird tan lines and Peter is pretty pink (pink being the only color the Irish can get, apart from white).

East Coast Australia in brief: It is no New Zealand. And no one says G'day, mate. Instead it's "How are you going", to which we candidly replied by car, by boat, etc. Doesn't seem that this was the response they were expecting...

Sorry to any Aussies I've offended but there is something truly extraordinary about parts of the South Island. Namely, Abel Tasman, Milford Sound, and Doubtful Sound. They're a hard act to follow.

That said, the Great Barrier Reef is...well...Great. It's straight out of Dr. Seuss' imagination. Technicolor fish and crazy shaped algae everywhere. The coral itself looks like giant mushroom trees, if that makes any sense. I guess it's one of those things you have to see for yourself. Or smoke a lot of weed.

We did a three day cruise around the Whitsunday Islands that also went out to the Outer Great Barrier Reef. The wind/waves were really high and the trip out to the GBR was really rough. You know the storm scene in Forrest Gump where Cap'n Dan is lashed on to the mast of Bubba Gump's shrimp boat? Yeah, it was like that.

Okay, no it was not quite like that but the waves were over 10 feet and there was a lot of leaning over the side of the boat. Not us, but the other passengers.

We get out to the GBR and it turns out that our captain, Doobie (or Dougie, we can't understand these Aussies) was the only one who thought it was a good idea to try to make it out there that day. Good thing he did because the next day was worse.

Peter and I tried to snorkel around a bit but the current was so strong, it was really hard to swim. We both nearly drowned. Really. Even with the noodle to keep us sort of afloat. You know, the long styrofoam things that keep kids afloat in the pool that come will all sorts of disclaimers like "Use only in pool under strict supervision", and not "Okay to use in open sea under high wind warnings with weak swimmers".

Which brings me to the lesson of the day--you get what you pay for.

We've been trying to do this trip sort of on the cheap. I admit we (I) were a little delusional when we (I) thought we could "rough" it and do the hostel thing. Well, we (I) are not cut out to be backpackers or as they are known here, fekkin' bekpekkas.

So, we call this travel agent who was mentioned in the Frommers travel forums--Bob--and he gives us the choice of a "luxury" cruise at $1,000 pp or the "basic" cruise at $400 pp. We figured, we don't need to pay more than twice as much for luxury so basic should do. What we didn't figure is that "basic" is a euphemism for a rusting piece of crap catamaran. Not that it wasn't seaworthy or that the crew wasn't great. I mean, both of the dive instructors were shirtless the entire cruise...which went a long way towards making me forget about the rat hole of a cabin we had. But the boat was really old and none too clean. Which is fine when you're a drunk bekpekka but not okay when you're past your 20s and hygienic. Peter: I have to admit I did kinda savor Dinh's look of totally horror and revulsion on seeing our cabin and hearing the guide state the "60 second" shower limit.

Also, when you're in your 30s, you're that much closer (and aware of) death. So, Peter and I are out in the middle of the ocean with strong currents and a high wind warning and the only flotation device they give us is a freakin' noodle?! No life jacket, no tow rope.

Peter: Meanwhile, on our 3rd and last day on the "Bubba Gump Boat", the engines fire up at 4.45am (at least 3.5 hours before we normally consider starting our day) closely followed by our "What the f..." is going on, are we being bombed, sinking.. We proceed to Whitehaven beach still swearing and pissy at the Captain until we hiked to the lookout point to witness National Geographic's World #1 beach, a point we found hard to argue despite our contrariness. The experience was made complete by being the days first vistors as high tide was beginning, making us feel a little like the pioneers such as Cook, Tasman. By the time we left at 10.30am to a beach of 200+ travelers, all we could do was express our total gratitude to the skipper, we owe you!

GREAT, It really was despite all the complaining. Worth the 1,500 mile round trip drive and the ground moving for a full 3 days after our trip ("sea legs").

That's All (for now) Folks. Tune in next time for the World's Funniest German (or worlds only funny German?)

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Comments

[Quynh]

you survived!
OMG! The Great Barrier Reef! Sounds like it was damn exciting and memorable. Isn't it crazy how casual they are about safety out there? I heard about people nearly left behind by their boats. Well, bekpekkas, glad to hear you're safe and sound. Watch out, Vietnam, here they come! -Quynh