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Published: March 19th 2007
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Fixin' a Flat
What perfect entertainment for everyone around. They were all friendly and intrigued. If you look close there's some good smiles. We left Phnom Penh in the early afternoon, retracing our steps 75ks to Skoun, (home of the deep fried wolf spider by the way), where the road splits off to the east. It was a smooth ride, pretty trafficy close to the city but we didn’t exactly get up and out early to avoid that. After a great day of riding the sun set on us so we turned on our lights and continued on for a few km. At one point Nikki lost sight of the edge of the road and went off into the dirt breaking one of the clips on her rear pannier in the process. Instead of fixing the clip we checked out this little store/restaurant across the road. We talked to the owner and asked if there was a place for us to put our tent. Within 5 minutes we had a little outdoor bed area to sleep in, they were making us dinner in the restaurant, Nikki was taking a shower and I was playing frisbee with about 15 kids(it was a light-up Frisbee). We had a nice dinner which to our surprise had been paid for by some other patrons at the restaurant.
Cambodian House
A typical house made from bamboo and palm in the countryside of northern Cambodia. We got up and out early the next morning, got a kilo of cashews instead of fried spiders.
Had a nice day of biking. About 80ks down the road we found a place to stay at village temple. The temples are considered public space and you are welcome to stay for the night. We set up our tent ate a durian by candlelight and had a good nights sleep.
There was a shorter route to the Laos boarder along the river but we opted for the paved road that was an extra 90km. When we crossed to the other side of the Me Kong I felt we were in a much poorer part of Cambodia. Much closer to the Vietnamese boarder. Undoubtedly the war effected this region of Cambodia heavily. We did ride through some agricultural areas, rubber trees, what I think was soap root, papaya and some kind of vine? We had some pretty steady uphill most of the afternoon followed by a long slow downhill which took us all the way to sunset. We rolled into a little village after dark with 105 km under our belts tired and ready to sleep.
Home from School
Some fellow cyclists...just some kids headed home from school. The bicycle is very popular transportation for school kids even over long distance. The next day we rode through what seemed like endless countryside. Every 10ks or so we’d cruise through a small village, I mean small like 10 or 12 palm houses on stilts maybe a few water buffalo a dozen or so kids playing maybe a farmer fixing a flat tractor tire and a few ladies making food or washing clothes, but that’s it. We went through many of these type villages. Then it occurred to me, “Why is there such a beautifully paved road going right through such rural villages?”, just about then I saw a billboard “Built by O.P.E.C. through the Asian Monetary Fund”. It was the hardwoods of the forest that were being exploited and the road was to haul the lumber quick and easily.
Made it to Stung Treng by sunset. Had some khao phat (fried rice with vegetables). Took a day of rest the next day.
With our visa running out we hopped in a minibus
Sunset Ferry to Muang Khong
Was an eventful day. Island life awaits. for the last hundred km to the boarder. Eventually we made it to the boarder crossing which was one of my favorites. A small wooden shack in the middle of the woods with an arm that goes across the road. The guard had to get out of his hammock to stamp our passports and collect one dollar.
10 kilometers of dirt road then 20 more to the turnoff that leads to the 4000 islands of the Me Kong river. We took a little ferry at sunset to the island of Muang Khong where we enjoyed island life for a couple days.
When it was time to go we set out early determined to make it to Pakse which would be our longest day so far this trip. Really nice to ride early in the morning, cool and less traffic. We were eating bananas and peanuts under a shade tree taking a break and up rolled a Norwegian guy on a bicycle going the other way. He had ridden from Norway! He said he loved Laos and had been here three months. He recommended some loops on the various plateaus and then gave us his map.
Some Fans
Nikki making friends while taking a short break in the countryside. It’s nice to meet another cyclist on the road. And when you’re coming from opposite directions you ask each other about the road ahead, what to check out, hills or not, wind, traffic road condition etc. And the just as quickly you’re back on the road the wiser.
Indeed we did make it to Pakse that day. A total 132km. Found a cheap room and then promptly sat down to eat Indian food at the corner restaurant. Almost immediately we met Brice and Elise, the French bike travelers we met briefly near Siem Reap 3 weeks prior. They were leaving the next morning headed away from the river and up to the Bolevan Plateau. We decided to join but would catch up to them a day later. The plan was to do a 200km loop on the plateau and then connect with the river road and on up to Vientiane(the Lao capitol).
The Indian food was delicious and followed by sweet dreams. The next day we hung out in Pakse mostly eating more Indian food and looking for a decent bike shop, to no avail.
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joriver
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wowwheeee!
Hi Kids! I rode that same road I think and crossed that same lonely border butit was I guess 7 hears ago...I was headed down toward Cambodia...but it was a different place I rode...no pave' [all dirt with huge craters that I assumed were evidence of the 500# pounds courtesy of The American Fast War Franchises....anyway the same border crossing and was not allowed to cross until I paid a bride of $25 USD...which does not sound like much but in that area was a huge sum....I imagine Simon's conjecture about the road and logging is true...as when I road the jungle forest was everywhere....anyway I am reliving my adventure through you two...also rode the BlovenPlateu....enjoy...you are going to love Vientienne...my favorite capital in the world (until I was in Addis Ababa...hmmm well maybe not...too many vehicles in Addis but the people and culture....wowwhee)...So Simon and Nickster keep going...if you go long enough I will meet you on the road next winter...All Love Surrounds You...per ususal..hah joriv