Steamy clubs and sultry samba - enjoying carnaval

---

We watched the crowd from the balcony of a steamy club on the first night of carnaval. The mass of people swayed and heaved and stretched as far as you could see. The humid temperature making it too hot to be inside, the party spilled from bars and clubs onto the street. Music thumped from every direction. Across the street, the Arches of Lapa are lit up and the massive plaza is full of young people standing around chatting and dancing. Vendors sell alcohol at ridiculously cheap prices. You can drink anywhere and anything. Welcome to Merry Making in Lapa a highlight of carnaval.

The costume competition at Hotel Gloria is hotly contested by each of the samba schools. It features the showpeice costumes adorned by the most beautiful people in Brazil and is an astounding array of rhinestones, sparkles, glitter, feathers and fabric. Many of the costumes are enormous and must be suffocating to wear. Others consist of little more than body paint and a few well placed gems.
(We managed to get back stage and meet one of the entrants who was divine and we think won something)

As important as the costumes is the music. The Bands of each school parade around the streets of Rio, trailed by dancers and drawing crowds out of nearby hotels and off the beach. Predominantly made up of drums and brass instruments, you cant help but move your feet and get caught up with the sounds of samba. It is loved by the locals and those that we met were as excited as we were and quick to dance with you. A few Caprinhas and beers later and we had the samba moves down pat.

The Scala Gay Ball is home to transvestites, transexuals, transgender, gay, straight and anything beyond and in between. Costumes are elaborate, makeup lavish and bare bottoms common. After parading along the main street we entered a richly decorated club and got busy dancing amid all manner of characters. Definately an experience!

As well as taking part in the parade it is a different experience to watch it. Without a ticket but with the vague hope that we could purchase one from a scalper at the gate aftermidnight we tried our luck. As luck would have it we got one, in Section 13. Where the locals go. It was at the finish line of the parade so you had to wait 45 minutes for the school to come past you. However you were kept busy because the crush of the crowd was overwhelming. Hands explored your pockets, locals cheered in your ear and your feet struggled to stay on the ground. It was an exhausting experience but worthwhile nonetheless. The passion people felt for the event was palpable, everyone knew the words to the songs and vehementaly waved flags and fans.

Carnaval has now drawn to a close and whilst I wont miss the blaring music that emanates from speakers in the boot of someones car or dodgy speakers setup on the street, I will miss the feverish excitement, the abundant parties, spontaneus dancing and the chance to dress up in masks and wigs!

---

Photos

Samba Dancers
Girls dancing to the street bands

Gay Scala
The three amigos....

Street Bands
Playing the sounds of samba

Comments

[Denise]

I'm sooo jealous
Great to hear already of your adventures in Rio....keep 'em coming Mel. I'll be living vicariously through your blog entries. Thanks very much and keep on having a fantastic time.