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Published: February 7th 2007
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Angkor Wat
This is the view of the temple structure as you approach from the main entrance. Really really incredible to see. Well for the past week I have been staying in the Cambodian town known as Siem Reap. Located in nearly central Cambodia, Siem Reap is the gateway to perhaps one of the most treasured ancient civilizations on earth. Known by most of the world as Angkor Wat, the ruins of the ancient Khmer Empire are spread out over a vast area just a short motor bike ride away from the main part of town. Angkor Wat, listed as one of the 7 wonders of the ancient world, just so happens to be the largest religious monument on the face of the planet. The main temple structure at Angkor Wat is like nothing I have ever seen, its unique style and layout have no parallel in western civilization. Consider that during the height of the Khmer civilization, between the 12th and 14th centuries, Angkor Wat was home to more than one million people, which at the time made it the most populous city on the planet. What the hell has happened since? How could Cambodia be barely a shell of its former self? I could spend days trying to explain the history and splendor of Angkor but instead I have attached a
View of Angkor at Sunset
This is the view of Angkor Wat from atop another temple several kilometers away. link with a much more detailed explanation. For those who are interested in more information, click here:
Wikipedia's Article on Angkor Wat So...over the course of three days I combed the inside and outside of the temples. Waking up at 5am to see the sun rise at Angkor and staying until sunset to view the breathtaking views of the land surrounding the great temples. When I wasn't swimming and dodging my way through crowds of Japanese toursists I was off exploring some new corner of a temple, snapping away pictures with my camera. In the days at Angkor I took more than 1000 photographs, try doing that with film! Anyways, crawling amongst these ancient ruins gave me perhaps the greatest feeling of wonder since I left on my travels. Such a different way of life and an ancient civilization in the Cambodian countryside, hidden by forest and jungle but once home to the most thriving civilization on earth. As I wandered around during the offpeak hours of tourists, I often found myself alone amidst these massive stone monuments, some more than 1000 years old. The sheer size and scale is shocking to the senses, and to think that they were built with not
View from Angkor
This is the view from the highest point at Angkor Wat, just as the sun is coming up. There are even hot-air balloon rides for those who want a better view. one trace of modern technology. It's quite a splendor to behold, certainly worthy of its place amongst the 7 wonders of the ancient world.
Something I found to be extremely interesting while visiting the temples were the distinct differeneces present between the Buddhist and Hindu architecture. Previous to my arrival in Cambodia I was unaware that Hinduism played such an important and influential role in the shaping of the Khmer culture. Because most of Thailand, Buhrma, Cambodia, Laos, and Vietnam are Buddhist countries, one would not think that a predominantly Indian religion had such a huge impact on the shaping of the region's largest ancient empire. The differences is style, construction, layout, and worship are very much present once you know what you're looking for. It took my motor bike driver and the help of a guide book to finally understand that all these ancient temples were definitely not the same. A recurring factor in visiting Buddhist temples in Thailand and Cambodia, thus far, has been that they often are very similar. It would be like trying to get excited to see the same basic Chatholic church a hundred days in a row. While always fascinating in the beginning,
Sunrise
I got up at 5am and took a motor bike over to Angkor Wat. After using my headlamp to navigate the dark passage ways and confused Japanese tourists, I made my way to the top for a great way to start the day. they now seem to lack the initial excitement that they once bestowed upon me. But not Angkor Wat, alas...a vast ancient civilization worth spending several days at.
For those of you who ever consider coming out to Cambodia, Siem Reap is actually a lovely town. Aside from the trickle of sadness that lingers over Cambodia, Siem Reap is a place to visit and still have a few of the normalities of the western world. Cafes, bakeries, and various restaurants line the streets of the once old French colonial town. At most bars and restaurants happy hour extends from 4pm until 11pm, with local beer usually costing $0.50 a glass. 50 cents! I know there are those of you who will read this and appreciate that subtle luxury. Nothing like Angkor Beer after a hot day in the sun. So aside from visiting the temples, reading books, and sipping the occasional frosty beer, not much else happened in Siem Reap. I bought some paintings and sent them home in a box via the "shippng by sea" method. It's supposed to take 2 months for them to get back to Moraga, but I'm thinking that it might take longer.
This
One of the many faces of Angkor Wat
Thousands of these intricate faces are carved into the stone walls around the temple morning I left Siem Reap and took a bus to Phnom Penh in order to obtain my Laos visa from their embassy. Because the overland boarder crossing from Cambodia into Laos is less than a year old, they don't issue visas on arrival. So my entrance into Laos is a few days later than I would have liked. O well. Tomorrow I take a 9 hour bus ride to Stung Treng and then hop a boat and follow the Mekong river into Laos. Southern Laos is known for its enormous archipelago, a vast area of nearly 4000 islands. Numerous waterfalls and riverside bungalows adorn the area. To the northeast of Si Pha Don (Laos name for 4000 islands) is a region called the Bolaven Plateau, home to some of the best coffee fields anywhere on earth. Apparently (I was previously unaware of this), Laos coffee grown in this area is sold in France at a highly premium price and carries a distinct taste different from many other varieties. I just so happen to like coffee so needless to say, I'm a wee bit excited. There's a coffee shop in Pakse that provides free transport to their growing fields in order
View from Atop Angkor
This is a view from near the top of the highest pillar at Angkor. I managed to get some great photos the the temple right after sunrise because it's the least crowded time of the day. to drink coffee straight from the source. I'm all over it. After that I'm headed up north to Vientiane, the capitol, and then onto Vang Vieng where I hope to meet back up with Julia and Carly, who I left several days ago. I know its more difficult to find fast internet access in Laos so it might be a while before my next blog, but hopefully not. From those who have been before more, I have heard that Laos is one of the most beautiful places anywhere. It's mountainous forests, abundant water supply from the Mekong and relatively limited development are supposed to provide for a country of vast natural beauty. I'm really getting excited for the change in scenery. Mountains and the Mekong, what more could I ask for?
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FERGUS
non-member comment
at last
nice to see you've finally spelt my name right!? also, how come you got 20 pictures of a temple, 10 of a monkey and none of me? come on smith, sort it out!