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Published: December 27th 2006
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Temple of Bacchus
Temple of Bacchus, Baalbek, Baaka Valley, Lebanon This prequel to the Ancient World Tour will cover Scott adventures highlights include: Following Lawrence’s footsteps in Damascus; Running the Syrian / Lebanon border on the eve of the cease fire; Learning to navigate without Hel; Visiting the crusader castle Krak des Chevaliers; and Watching the sun rise over the desert ruins in Palmyra.
Damascus, Syria
16 August 2006
I arrived in Damascus on 16th August, for two weeks travelling through Syria. I travelled exclusively on local buses which are an excellent way to get around. The Syrian bus system is extensive, efficient and cheap. All towns and cities have a central bus stations, the language is not a problem, lonely planet guided have the names of towns and cities in both Arabic and English is simply a matter of showing the ticket salesperson the destination in the book and they will sell you the right ticket.
Once the ticket was purchased one of the people from the ticket office invariable came around and took me to the right departure bay and returned later to make sure I had gotten on the bus. I t was common for someone to bring me a glass of tea while I
waited for the bus, Moslems take their responsibility of hospitality to strangers very seriously, and I found the Syrians generous, courious people with a wonderful sense of humour. In the two weeks I travelled in Syria I didn’t have one unpleasant experience.
Spent the day in the old city bargaining for Maris Theresa’s got four for cheaper that the prices on the net. Have been eating local kebabs of the street during the day, great. Fran would love the baklava shops and the sweet shops in the bazaar.
Baalbek, Lebanon
17 August 2006
Well... Just got back from the Beekaa valley and Baalbek, went over for the day and had a great time, gave the cease fire 48hrs and it looked like it was going to hold. The bloke on reception arranged a driver and off we went at 7am this morning, took three hours to get their having to take all the back roads to avoid the bridges that are down. It was chaotic at the Masnaa boarder crossing traffic was backed up for a couple of km’s with Lebanese returning home. It was striking to note that every car, truck, taxi and bus was flying
Bomb Craters
Town of Baalbek, Baaka Valley, Lebanon Hezbollah flags. If the Israelis had been hoping that wrecking the Lebanese infrastructure was going to turn the people against Hezbollah, they have miscalculated again.
The temple was spectacular and on the way back he took me to see the places that had been bombed. If any of you are worried about me don't be, the chances of being killed in a traffic accident are much higher that a missile strike.
When I turned up at the gate the bloke nearly fell off his seat and dropped his AK47, I was the first tourist there since the before the war started and he let me in free, had the whole place to myself. Spoke to a Lebanese soldier who was on guard at the temple, he was keen to know what I thought of the war, asked him how he felt about the army being sent into the south to act a buffer between the Israelis and Hezbollah, he laughed and told me they were all Hezbollah.
Palmyra, Syria
18 August 2006
Am now 400kms north of Damascus, arrived yesterday on the bus and Hel will be pleased to know that I am now in
Dawn in Palymra
Valley of Tombs, Palymra,Syria lonely planet budget accommodation, which is good and just down the road from the ruins. The place is spectacular. The bloke who runs the place I’m in took me up to a ruined Islamic castle on the hill over looking the ruins to watch the sun come up and it was something to see, all the ruins turned pink when the sun hit them.
Going for a swim this arvo and then on the bus tomorrow morning heading west for the coast. Cards in the mail, I hear the post is a bit slow from Syria. 42 degrees yesterday! If you need a guide in Palmyra, ask for Mohammad, he has an encyclopaedic knowledge of Palmyra a genuine love of ancient history, and is an extremely entertaining character.
Hama, Syria
21 August 2006
Well, am now in Hama in north central Syria, had a great couple of days at Palmyra then caught the bus to Tartus on the Mediterranean. When I walked out my hotel room door (lonely planet budget Hel) the Med was 30 metres down the street. If my eyesight was a bit better I would be able to see Barcelona at the opposite end.
Valley of Tombs
Valley of Tombs, Palymra,Syria I spent my second day in Tartus at Krak Chevalier, and what a day it was. Best castle in the world. My hotel here in Hama (lonely planet budget) is describer as the best budget hotel in Syria, and I agree.
Will be staying here for a couple of days before heading for Aleppo. Off to the castle of Salahuddin to tomorrow which is out side the town. I’m not putting up with any cheek about my spelling; I’m struggling with an Arabic key board.
Have just returned from the castle of Salahuddin, and may have to change my view on which is the best castle in the world. Another great piece of stone work in a spectacular setting.
Aleppo, Syria
24 August 2006
Arrived in Aleppo this morning and have been in the souk most of the day. Have found an Alexander teradrachma (life time issue) but the bloke is playing hardball and I won't pay the price. Tomorrow is another day.
The souk is great, like going back to the middle ages, even better than the one in Damascus. Will be spending an other night here and then getting the bus over to
Crusader Castle
Krak des Chevaliers, Syria Antioch in Turkey, only about an hour away on the bus. It will be a shame to leave Syria I have really enjoyed it here the people are great.
I’m off for a beer at the Baron Hotel, which is just around the corner from the place I am staying (lonely planet budget Hel) in the bar where Laurence used to drink.
Hatay, Turkey
28 August 2006
Was due to leave for Turkey today, walked down to the bus station but alas there was no bus until tomorrow. Was approached by a taxi driver who offered to take me to Hatay with two Syrians for $10 each.
When we got to the border and while we were in immigration he picked up a Turk and his wife who had been in Syria buying a washing machine, my two Syrian travelling companions were not impressed by this as we were now crammed into the taxi like sardines. One of them, who spoke good English and was travelling up to Istanbul to pick up a truck explained to me that $10 each for three of us was fine, but not for five, and a washing machine. I felt
sorry for the Turks wife who was obviously embarrassed by the situation, but worse was to come. When we reached the Turkish immigration a couple of kms down the road the Turkish customs confiscated their washing machine due to some question about an import licence.
Finally arrived in Hatay, which was the ancient city of Antioch, got a room and went to visit the mosaic museum which is outstanding. Next day was on the bus north. Stopped in Iskenderun (Alexandretta) and got a taxi a few kms north to Payas and visited the Issus battlefield which is now in the industrial area of Iskenderun, but you can still stand up against the low cliff that stopped Alexander’s phalanx in 333 BC.
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Fran
non-member comment
Ha!
Apart from the visit to Tartus and the temps this is pretty much exactly the route i have planned! Except that i'm taking full advantage of the sweet shops in the old Damascus Souq.