The Lupin Trail

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We have not been able to get web access recently, so firstly a HUGE thank you to Janet, Bryce, Reg and Anne for dealing with the home problems - will try to email later tonight now we're in Queenstown - but all the boys have gone off for a drink, I'm on Eric's laptop in an internet cafe, and don't quite know how to email from it - so will have to wait till he comes back. Thanks also to Wilkes and Bains for your comments - lovely to hear from you.

To catch up on what we've been doing - here's the account of the last few days which I'd already written up, just waiting for the chance to log on and enter it.

Mount Cook

Another beautiful morning; the light is so bright here in the Southern hemisphere summer that we have to squint for a while until our eyes become accustomed to it. No cathedral bells today to herald our rising as there was yesterday for the Harper service - today is just an ordinary Monday morning.

Eric rushed off to the cathedral visitor centre to buy the books he wanted - about the building of the cathedral, and the history of the early colonial church under Bishop Harper. We then set off on our long journey to Aoraki Mount Cook - the highest mountain in Australasia.

Once clear of Christchurch, the journey really became a journey back in time to the early settlement of the Harpers in South Island. We were travelling via Geraldine, a town about 2 hours South of Christchurch, an area now extensively farmed by Harpers. Firstly we had been told by Eric the elder that as we crossed the Rangitata River, we should cast our eyes west up into the Southern Alps, as up there in the headwaters was Eric Stream, Eric Glacier, and Eric Twins (mountain) all named after Eric Harper, Eric’s grandfather, who ‘discovered’ them. We then passed the turn off to the Acland Estate, Mount Peel, which we had been invited to visit, but not today. The eldest Harper daughter, Emily, had married into the Acland family from Devon; the descendants are evidently very proud of the estate which has its own chapel and lilies 6 feet high around the door. Close by was the Tripp Estate on the Orari Gorge- 3rd daughter Ellen married Charles Tripp, and settled here. It seems the Bishop’s wife had been concerned before they left Mortimer about the availability of suitable young men for her daughters, but evidently she need not have worried!

This area also encompasses the Harper (Mountain) Range, which is very close to the location used as Edoras in Lord of the Rings. Finally we passed through Geraldine, where George and Joan have their farm, now managed by their son Phillip, and where various other Harpers are in residence.

As we drew closer to the mountains, the most beautiful sight appeared with constant regularity; swathes and swathes of wild lupins in all hues of pink, red, purple and blue growing beside the lakes and rivers and along the road verges. I can honestly say I have never seen such a spectacular display of wild flowers. Finally we arrived at our stop for the night - the Hermitage Hotel - which is the only hotel at the end of the road beside Lake Pukaki, and in a stunning location at the foot of Mount Sefton and Mount Cook.

We decided we had time to walk up to the Hooker valley to Lake Hooker for a closer view of Mount Cook. It was a beautiful walk, not too strenuous - just as well, as my knees have never recovered since our long walk last week. We were rewarded by a fantastic view of Mount Cook, covered in fresh white snow, following a snowfall last week. The lake is formed where the glacier ends and is melting, the result being a number of icebergs floating in the water.

After taking in the view for some time, we set off back down the valley. In the evening I had booked the buffet meal in the Alpine Restaurant, and we were given a table right by the fabulous huge glass windows which gave a panoramic view of the mountains. The buffet was fabulous too, and we did it proud, trying a large selection of the delicious offerings. After that, back to our lodge, and early bed -again.

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Photos

Mount Cook
Boys on the Bridge - Hooker Valley

Comments

[Viv]

I'm envious!
Have just read you blog to date - brings it all back! It sounds as though you are all having a fantastic time and I hope will continue to do so. Congratulations on the Tongariro Crossing - it is spectacular, isn't it? The lupins were all over when we walked up the Hooker Valley - so look forward to seeing your photos. From foggy Oxon to sunny NZ - happy Christmas