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Published: December 17th 2006
Hi everyone
After a few days in San Cristobal de las Casas, I decided to continue my journey through Mexico. I headed for the town of Palenque. Not very far on the map but 5 winding, twisting hours on the bus. I hadn't realised quite how high I had been in San Cristobal until it came to time to leave. 2,000 metres/6,000 feet for the stat keepers out there.
The ancient Mayan ruins in Palenque are considered by many to be the finest. As for the town itself, I didn't take a shine to it. Perhaps it's because I was tired but there was not much going for the town. My guide book described it as a "lively and colourful" town. That would only apply if by "lively" you mean "noisy" and by "colourful" you mean "dirt-brown". The hotel I found was cheap but not that cheerful.
I was woken at around 7am by voices from the street outside. The voices were Mexican but I'm pretty sure the conversation went something like this:
"Are you ready to make some more noise Pablo?"
"Sure Juablo but what about that bloke staying in the hotel room up there? I hear that someone decided to host a noisy party really close to his room last night. It went on until 2am."
"What? They held a noisy party even though he was really tired from his journey with no regard for any of the other hotel guests?"
"That's right! I reckon he'll be really annoyed if we start making more noise now"
"That's true. But remember. We don't need a reason to make noise. We can just do it anyway. Regardless of time, day or night"
"Let's do it then"
And they proceeded to open up the noisiest market stalls in the history of the world. I was not amused but took it on the chin. Note to self - try and avoid hotels above busy streets.
So, I headed off for the nearby Palenque ruins. They are located in a protected national park, which is made up of lush tropical rainforest. It decided to rain so I wisely put on my waterproofs. The ruins themselves were spectacular and I forgot about my tiredness for a few hours. (Paul B - they are very similar to the jungle golf course on Tiger Woods Challenge for the PS2) You are allowed to climb and touch the monuments, which I wasn´t expecting. The site was very busy with tourists following guides giving talks in various languages. I sneaked a few listens to the English guide as I ambled around.
I found myself at the top of what is considered to be the main palace of Palenque. As if by magic, I was all alone. The crowd of Japanese people had sped off, probably to get new batteries for their camera flashes. I imagined what it must have been like to have been a Mayan ruler sitting in the palace directing the troops against the onrushing crowd of.........erm, Mayan enemies. You certainly got a good view of the site from the palace and would be able to spot any attacks. I was in the middle of plotting a perfect strategy when it started to rain harder. So I decided to seek shelter. I don't think I'd have been a very effective Mayan ruler. But I don't like standing out in the rain when I don't have to.
I headed back to the town of Palenque. I didn't like the thought of staying another night in Hotel Night. For the first time on the trip, I started to feel a little homesick. I then realised that I don't have a home in London and I'm hardly ever sick so being homesick was dumb. I also read a few emails from home describing days in the office, dark nights and cold weather. I suddenly felt more cheerful. I had been wandering around like a tourist for days with not very much rest. The beauty of travelling without a plan is that you can do what you like. So I did. I decided I needed a few days of sitting. Sitting is a very underrated hobby. Make sure over the Christmas holidays, you take time out to have a good, old-fashioned sit. It's very good for you. Now, where's the best place to have a sit, I thought. Then it came to me. I'm going to the beach!
Before I head off, a quick update on the Magnum moustache project. Whilst in San Cristobal, I saw an English bloke who had grown a Zapata moustache. To be honest, He looked a doofus, almost as if he was mocking the Mexican moustache tradition. And my moustache colour is not nearly dark enough to come close to emulating Tom Selleck. The hotter weather has caused blonde streaks to appear in my stubble. Eek! So the moustache growing is postponed for now. Sorry to disappoint all the Magnum fans out there.
Coming soon - find out about my adventures on the coast. And I must remember to post details of my itinerary next time.
Joff
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Tom
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Christmas Cheer
I thought I'd bring you up to date with the ensuing Christmas season - the Phipps-Kunwar household is awaiting the arrival of the Phipps family in a few days time. Still not sure who will be turning up and if they do, who will be talking to who. In an effort to provide a talking point, we purchased (not stole) our first Christmas tree yesterday and realise now why we have not invested in what is essentially an overgrown pot plant that sheds foilalge the moment you bring it into the house and dies within two weeks before- £34 for a six foot tree! In my day it was a £1 a foot and no messing. Have had the work Christmas party, home by 3am, no search party required and as Trinder has mentioned DC on Thursday night which will be a big one as I've no work on Friday. Your absence will be noted in the minutes! You'll probably more up to date on the disastrous Ashes tour than I am and I'm pleased to report that I was named BBC Sports Personality of the Year for my gym attendance. Gloucester continue to cling to a glimmer of hope of qualification for the next stage of the Heineken Cup. And by the way, a cracking result for the dirty reds yesterday. I should also mention that I'm having another go at Syphon Filter for old times sake. Good to hear all the traveling tales, keep it coming, we'll be in the pub from 7pm on Thursday night if you fancy it although Shield can't make it. Suprise suprise.