A Birthday in Paloloem

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20th November Mel’s birthday in Palolem

After a well deserved day of rest, our journey started to take on a celebratory note, as Mel’s birthday was rapidly approaching. So the boys Deepu and Amrose had decided arrange a bit of a birthday in Palolem as they would not be able to partake on the 23rd. 7am at he beach, as soon as you reach the sand turn right, walk past the two beach huts masquerading as shops, face the ocean and look for Amrose. We did exactly this and thee he was with his family’s traditional fishing boat. A morning of Dolphin spotting had been planned. It was ok for Mel, being the birthday girl and all, but I had to help get this thing in the water and as you will see in the photo’s this is not a little tinnie. So after a good 10 minutes of rhythmical pushing, the five of us managed to get “Prajita” into the water. What a magical start to another beautiful morning in Palolem. At this time, come to think of it most of the time the water in this particular beach is quite calm, so once in the boat it was very smooth going along clear waters and an even clearer blue sky. The sun had just risen over one of the many hills that dot this landscape, giving us enough light to see the yoga class going through their stance’s on a rock precariously perched above the lapping ocean below. Magic!

This being Goa, and Palolem being the postcard beach, we were not the only ones on the water that morning, as we looked around, we could see at least four other boats laden with tourist’s who had all coughed up close to $10 each to catch a glimpse of a dolphin on its turf. For us or Mel rather, this was a gift, for me this experience was one that truly touched me, again such generosity from those who can only give what they have. In this case time and a boat. As we motored along across this peaceful stretch of ocean Amrose noticed something in the water and steered us in that direction, this being India and all, as soon as we took off so did all the other boats who were also chasing this elusive sight. So the now the race was on, who could manoeuvre their cargo of foreigners into the best dolphin spotting position in order to get the best tip. Well we got their first, by a good 30sec’s, just enough time to see to dolphin’s proposing along the surface. It is truly a wonderful experience to be yet again so close o mother nature. Although these creatures didn’t look me in the eye like the snake, we were still close enough to feel their presence. Some more time on the water and another sighting of two more dolphins and we headed back to shore. Like so much of India, it is so very difficult to put these experiences into words.

As we near the shore Amrose times his run perfectly, waiting for a wave just large enough to carry us onto the sand. It’s funny you know, Amrose being a fisherman and all, is still apprehensive around the surf, we would have waited for at least 5 waves to pass us before he chose the one he did. I think it’s because he had birthday girl onboard and wanted everything to be just right and it was…. for Mel. I stll had to get this boat back onto the sand, past the high tide mark, so again we rhythmically pushed and pushed until “Prajita” was safely perched in her resting place high on the beach.

After some breakfast at Cheeky Chapatti’s (one of the better western/indian restaurants around), we headed back to our room, to prepare ourselves for the next adjunct of this very memorable day. Birthday blessings at the Siva temple just outside Palolem. Back on the Enfield for another short ride, off to the next major village, Chaudi, where we picked up some offerings consisting of a coconut, incense and bright yellow malligi flowers, which are tied together on a string, to place at the temple. We arrive to find that there is a new temple being constructed around the old one, I don’t know how long it’s been there, but just by looking at it you know its old. It’s very strange in most spiritual places the shrine, altar or temple is usually well lit, not so over here, most of the houses of worsip have no artificial light and get darker and darker as you pass through the succession of chambers which lead you up to usually a holy man and an elaborately carved or painted statue of the particular whose house you are in. So we offered up our offerings and received our blessings, but not before birthday girl made a donation of money with the wrong hand. You see over here yor right hand is clean, used to eat, shake hands with people etc and the left, well that’s used for the unsavoury tasks of life lke taking of dirty shoes and attending to personal bodily hygiene if you know what I mean. For any of you who have travelled to an asian country, you would be familiar with the squat toilets with no loo paper, India is an asian country. So you can imagine everyone’s (Deepu) horror when Mel placed the money with her left hand. A new meaning to dirty money I guess….

Dinner at Banyan Tree, great Thai, another beach hut café, this time on the North side of Palolem where it’s so much more peaceful, not less touristy, but peaceful. A pre-birthday celebration with the boys, who, had arrived some time later, giving us all sorts of excuses as to why they had taken so long. But it wasn’t long before we found out the truth….. Birthday cake! At home we it is customary to have cake as dessert, not this time, it was served up with all the usual fanfare, including “29” candles and “happy birthday Melissa” written in white icing across this rich square chocolate cake. Mel was very surprised at the thoughtfulness of these two, until 3 days ago perfect strangers. But I let her talk more about that, I’m just the running commentary…

Hello there beautiful people, I just wanted to (try) share my 29th extra special birthday experience! Firstly it’s such a blessing to be able to have a birthday outside of our western world and secondly I have never felt such warmth and genuine friendship as I felt from these two perfectly good strangers. When Deepu informed me that Amrose would like to take me out on his boat to see the dolphins for my birthday I was immediately moved. The fact that Deepu asked for Amrose was so sweet, given that Reza had met Deepu first I’m guessing…and out of respect. The peace and warmth of that morning was indescribable. I couldn’t help but sit in perfect silence, in awe of my surroundings, Rez and Amrose would talk occasionally while I appreciated every moment. The beauty of the water, the horizon, our boat and the surrounding island had all of my attention. I hope the photos do some if any justice as to what we felt that morning.

Dinner was special, I still can’t believe I had a birthday cake and my mum was nowhere in sight! - I thought of you mum - it even had my name on it! I’m sorry but the fact that we had only known these guys for days still blows me away. I’m truly still touched and so very happy to have met our two special friends. Reza had organised Deepu to have a necklace made for me which has a beautiful piece of moonstone as the pendant and some smaller semi precious stones along either side of it. So spesh..

I would like to finish now as I’d like Rez to get back to his wonderful writing but before I do I would like to say that I am having the most amazing trip and this adventure is so much more than I could ever have imagined. Much love and peace..ciao for now.

So that brings our stay in magical Goa to an end. Tomorrow, were off took Kanataka(ka nut a ka- but said really quickly). There are many different states in India, each have there own language, cuisine and idiosyncrasies. We didn’t know what to expect and certainly got more than we had ever imagined on so many levels.

We both trust that you are well, enjoying life back home and wanting to be here as much as we are loving being here.

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Comments

[Miss Cindy Lee]

Happy Birthday Melomas
Miss Mel, My love to you on your Birthday sweet lady. I miss you guys and would love to giev you a huge hug to celebrate your special day. Mr Reza, I am enjoying your wonderful commentary immensely, you are a wonderfully expressive writer. Love eternal Cindy

[Parry]

Where's Rez
Hey Bro, It took me awhile to spot u in the that pic, u look more and more like an Indian each time i see new photos. Glad u had a memorable birthday Mel. Miss u guys love Parry. Rez do me a favour and don't take so long between entries next time.