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Published: December 4th 2006
Glacier Hike
Tunnels of Blue Ice...When the sun is out, Frances Joesph is an awesome little town with beautiful snowy mountains (glaciers) as backdrops, however it does rain...ALOT! I wish I had a few days to chill out here, but all I could fit in was an 8 hour glacier hike on Friday.
I awoke (very early) on Friday morning to rain so hard that you could hear it outside your windows before even opening the blinds....and I thought to myself, "what was I thinking??" I was a little apprehensive when the shop gave us our gear...the boots were wet when you put them on and their wool gloves were useless in the rain...
We had about an hour's walk through the valley before reaching the glacier and putting on our ice spikes. We had to cross three rivers and my feet were totally soaked and cold before we even started. As we climbed, the tempertures dropped and the rain was yet to let up...in other words, I was not having so much fun. But my attitude improved as the day progressed. The first hour or so was really steep but they did have ropes
Frances Joesph
View from our hostel to hold on to along the way. We passed through steep terrain, narrow crevasses, and ice caves...and even saw a bunch of "kea" birds (whom are quite clever little buggers). The amount of blue ice was spectacular. The even sun came out for the last few hours, but coming down was harder than going up.
We arrived back at the hostel around 5pm, and it felt like a great accomplishment, but I could no longer walk properly with the two ENORMOUS blisters on my each of my big toes...let's just say, wet boots and wool socks aren't the best match for an 8 hour hike!But I still managed to walk 800 Meters with Emma to the bottle shop to get some NZ "Wilson's" whiskey to warm our bellies. Later, we watched a fun rugby league match between NZ and Australia, but unfortunately NZ lost right at the end.
Sunday November 26 - Drive to Makaroru Our first stop of the day was at Lake Matheson which has brown water that reflects Mt. Cook. This lake sits next to the smaller glacier called Fox Glacier where we had a cup of tea after our walk before moving on.
Not recommended
Do you notice the sign on the day of our walk? It says not recommended due to flooding... Next we stopped at a "Salmon Park" where they breed salmon, and some of them were HUGE!!! We got to feed them, but the sand flies here were pretty brutal. I realized as we moved South along the West Coast, the sandflies seemed to increase in numbers.
Most of the day was spent driving along the scenic coastal highway in the "Te Wahi Pounamu World Hertiage Area" otherwise known as the "the place of treasures". The south westland contains some of the best examples in the world of undisturbed, continuous mountain to sea landscapes with lowland native temperate rainforests including Kahikatea forests. It was stunning to say the least, however the rain returned before we stopped at "Knights Point Lookout" and then again at "Arnott Point", both were beautiful even in the rain but our photos suck. Our last stop along the West Coast before heading inland was at Haast. (Haast is also where we got to visit a muesum about this World Hertiage Area and is why I can talk so intelligently about it...Taxi, although I think he's great, but he likes to exaggerate and sometimes lie for entertainment value!)
After Haast, the sun started shining again
Lake Matheson
See the reflection on the lake? Most lakes in NZ will reflect the scenery on a sunny day. as we turned inland towards Wanaka. We turned into the middle of mountains with beautiful green rivers and mountains full of trees (and you could also still see all the snow capped mountains). Tons of waterfalls and lush tropic vegetation (lots of ferns). we passed the huge waterfall called "Roaring Billy" and got to see the native "Paradise Ducks" whom mate with only one partner. If the woman duck dies, the male will also die...but if the man dies first, the woman goes on to mate again. (just an random fact we learned) Next was the Thunder Creek Falls where we also tried "Horopito" a bush herb that tasted like cinnamon that burned your mouth. It is used in native dishes as well as a painkiller because the hot sensation could also be used to numb I suppose. Next we passed the "Gates of Haast" on ANOTHER one lane bridge which a flowing gorge underneath. We also stopped at the "Fish River" and took a walk over the suspension bridge to the "Blue Pools" to skim some rocks.
After we arrived in our huts at Makaroru. Emma and I along with our new canadian friend Kristine aka Caroline took
Thunder Creek Falls
Nicknamed "LSD Falls" because they create an opitical illusion, one of many beautiful waterfalls of the day. an hour bush walk to Pipson Creek. But it was an early night.
Monday November 27 - Drive to Wanaka We awoke to a beautiful chilly day in NZ as we headed southeast to Wanaka. The scenery changed yet again...there weren't as many trees on the mountains anymore but the lakes were huge and their colors amazing. We stopped at Lake Wanaka and Lake Hawea. And then I was dropped off on the side of the road to be picked up for my skydive....
The's company's motto is "adrenalin is legal" and OMG skydiving was AWEEEESOME! I got strapped in and sent up in a little plane with 4 other jumpers (and four guides). I started to get nervous when the plane had some turbulence from the wind, and when I thought we were almost there....someone said...."okay we're half way now!" ....WHAT???!!!
The plane was amazing though, I was sitting right next to the door (which was clear) so the views were amazing...but then I was scared sh!tless when I was hanging on the edge of the door while they were trying to take my picture....and then we got sucked out and before I knew it
Gates of Haast
Most bridges in NZ are only one lane, just a funny tidbit about NZ...gorge underneath this bridge was fantastic. I was enjoying a fanastic feeling of weightlessness 12,000 FT above ground! It was crazy cold and we did a ton of spins with our parachute and landing was a breeze, although I was still shaking when I landed.
We got dropped off in town (Wanaka) and after a nice walk around the beautiful town/lake, I spent a few hours checking out "dub" music in a local music shop. "Dub" music has reggae roots and is the only genre of music that New Zealand claims to have invented.
We had a four person suite with two others girls from Sweden this night. We had our own kitchen and bathroom and it was nice to be able to watch a little tv before bed. I absolutely adored this town, and the hostel (Purple Cow) in Wanaka. I wished I could have stayed here for a while but it was time to move on....but we did get a chance to walk the 2.5km to "Puzzling World" in the morning before the bus came to pick us up.
Tuesday November 28 - First Trip to Queenstown Queenstown - Round 1 - was nothing but drinking games and teacups at
More Southwest Scenery
Amazing turquoise rivers, they were everywhere! the World Bar where we danced the night away. We did however win yet another quiz night which paid for our drinks, and I even won a free river surfing trip for winning a beer chugging contest! Mom and Dad I know your proud! hee!!
Wednesday November 29 - Start our trip to see the bottom of the South Island Heading down the road with wildflowers everywhere and still more mountains...first stop Te Anau and then we were off to Milford Sound. Weather was horrible today...pouring is an understatement and the wind was quite rough as well. We stopped at the Eglinton Valley lookout, Mirror Lakes where we saw a "scaup" (small duck) and then OMG the waterfalls...so we didn't see Milford on the most gorgeous day, but I bet most don't get to see waterfalls gushing like we did...The tunnel we had to go through was a little eerie and our river cruise was even cancelled (due to 140 knot wind, it rains all the time)...which supposedly NEVER happens....it was still amazing, but I bet it's breathtaking on a sunny day..
By evening, we had arrived in Tuatapere, New Zealand Sausage Capital! It was an early
Suspension Bridge
Emma, Kristen and Taxi on crazy bridge on our 30 minute walk to the Blue Pools. night, and come morning everyone went to go "sheep shearing" but me. I was feeling under the weather and didn't want to pay the 15 bucks for a sausage breakfast that I knew my stomach couldn't handle, but I got to see the farm and the sheep after breakfast before we headed to Invercargill.
Due to the horrible weather we were having, Emma and I decided against the expensive ferry to see Stewart Island. We had intended on doing some fishing (which wasn't possible with the rough sea), so we went to an overlook hill by the ferry in Bluff...saw the very end of Route 1 (country's main highway) and the famous "shell house" and then a small group of us headed back into town (Invercargill) and go see "Borat" the movie (it'sa na-ice)....We had a fun night out and just enjoyed each other's company. Invercargill was much larger than I had anticipated and we had a good time.
Friday December 1st - Heading North again to the college city of Dunedin Today we traveled through the Catlins on the east coast to arrive in Dunedin. Finally, the sun appeared and the Catlins were amazing. We saw
tons of sea lions and some nice waves. The sea lions were hugging, kissing, hissing (they are quite the characters) and some huge funky looking seaweed at Waipapa Point. Next was the stunning Curio Bay (would have loved to chill out here too) where we got lucky and saw a yelloweyed penguin. These are the rarest penguins in the world and it looked sooo cute hopping from one rock to another. After Curio bay and the 180 million year old petrified forest, we headed to Florence Hill Lookout overlooking Tautuku Beach. Lastly we hit Papatowai (famous surf competition spot) and then Nugget Point which was brillant!
Unforunately the Speights Brewery was being fumigated when we arrived in Dunedin but we did all go out for a group dinner for once before a night out on the town. We ended up at this "sportsbar" that resembled a bad 1970's dance joint with a lighted floor and a crazy crowd. I felt like it was halloween or something...weird I tell you, but it made for a good laugh! Night ended early because nights in Queenstowne are always rough!
It's Saturday night (12/2) in Queenstown....Round 2 The morning was spent
cruising the Otago Penisula after a short stop at "Baldwin Street" (the steepest street in the world)...The Penisula had beautiful green hills and even more sheep. We stopped at the Taiaroa Head Reserve before continuing west to Queenstown.
As we approached Queenstown, and the beginning of the "Remarkables" (mountain range), the bus stopped at the Kawarua Bridge so Emma and I could plumet ourselves 43 meteres (160 feet) into the river on our first bungy. This was actually scarier than sky diving I think, hobbling to the edge of the bridge and making yourself jump (and not someone else throwing you from a plane) was a frightening but thrilling experience.
Before long, we were heading out for yet another wild night in Queenstown (I could never live here!). This is probably the wildest kiwi town I have been in and Emma and I danced the night away....literally. I woke up the following morning feeling pretty good considering the debauchery from the night before but I was unable to use my free river rafting trip that I won the last time I was in Queenstown due to the fact that I forgot to reserve myself a space, but maybe
this was a blessing in disguise considering I was a little slow and I saw a bus full of people leaving the "surfing" van with bloody lips...it can get rough out there.
During our free day, Emma and I ate yet another Fergburger (huge burgers), designed our own hoodies, and went to the luge with six of our friends from the bus. You start by taking the gondola up the huge mountain and enjoying some fantastic views of the city...next you get into a chair lift up to the top of the luge track and around and around you go. I got taken out on a turn (but I'm okay) and this was soo much fun with a group of people, and cheaper than any other activity in Queenstown...I highly recommend it!
Monday December 4th....Back to Christchurch We saw some amazing views of Mt. Cook behind Lake Pukaki on our drive northeast to Christchurch. The lake was a bright aqua blue because of all the glacier waters that flow into the lake. We also drove through the Cantebury Plains which is the flatest part of the Southern Island, but for most of the ride I slept.
I am now back in Christchurch (which is where I started) and will be heading again through Kaikoura and then Picton before I reach Carolyn in Wellington on the 7th. Sorry for the long blog, we are always on the move so it is hard to find time to write. But this is my own journal too so I need to keep it detailed! We have more time to stop in places on the north so hopefully I will write again sooner than later.
I miss you all and happy belated Thanksgiving...time is flying I can't believe its December already...
much love Kristen
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Matt
non-member comment
sure, sure the south island is alright but wait to you hit the North Island - we are sweltering up here!