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Published: November 22nd 2006
Immediately when we arrive in Ecuador it feels better than Costa Rica. It isnt raining for a start, so our luck must be improving? When we gather our luggage and head out of the airport, we are not greeted by a scrum of taxi drivers fighting to get our business like we had been in Costa Rica. Instead, one friendly gentleman asks where we are going. We tell him the address of the hostel in Quito.
"Aah, de nada, es bueno. Aqui, aqui.... diez dollars." Beconing us towards his transporter that will fit our boards in nicely. As easy as that, we set off through Quito to our accomodation in the old town.
After dumping our belongings at the hostel, we change our clothes and head out to get some food and see what Quito has to offer. As we wonder around the streets the atmosphere is lively and there looks like alot of places to explore. We could stay for longer than one night if we want, but after spending a week in the city at san Jose, we are both eager to return to the coast in search of some much needed surf.
At the bus station the next morning we find out that the only buses going to Montanita (Where we had planned to go) leave in the evening and travel through the night. Not keen to make such a long journey at night, the only place we can get a bus to in the day is Atacames, which is much further north than we had planned to go. After a quick check on the map, we figure there must still be waves, so board the bus and get comfortable for the 9 hour journey through the Andes to the beach.
9 Hours on a bus in Ecuador goes by in no time. At every village you pass through, the local population board the bus and try to sell you everything from designer sunglasses and fake watches, to oranges and fresh coconut milk. We decide to give the Calvin Kleins a miss, but enjoy the scenery on offer with a tipple of fresh coconut juice, brought off a young boy of about 9 years old, who is earning extra money for his family by selling their produce on the busses.
By the time we arrive in Atacames it is dark, and as our luck would also have it, we have arrived right in the middle of a power cut (A common occurrance in South America). We get vague directions to the beach off the conductor on our bus, unload our bags and head off into pitch darkness in search of somewhere to stay. There is the occasional light from candles flickering inside the windows of local shops to guide us on our way. We struggle through the streets with our board bags, trying to find anywhere that in the darkness vaguely resembles a hostel. A freindly local called David takes pitty on us and guides us to the nearest hotel. It turns out to be much more than we want to pay, so we head off to a second hotel that David knows. Same story there, and at the next place.
It soon becomes clear that not only have we arrived in the middle of a power cut, but we have also managed to arrive on the first day of a public holiday in Ecuador. Everyone from Quito to Guayaquil has headed to the beach to party for the weekend, meaning that all the accomodation is either full or too expensive. We eventually manage to find a room for $15 each per night if we pay in advance for 3 nights. The room is small, doesnt have constant running water, the shower door is hanging off and the only window has a gorgeous view directly into the sandal shop next door. It is much more than we want to pay, but have little choice and take the room for 3 nights. With such bleek surroundings at our accomodation, there is only one thing we can possibly do. If everyone in Ecuador has headed to the beach for a party, then party is what we shall do as well. When in Rome and all that??
The beach is white sand, lined all along the front with bars blasting out loud salsa music and street vendors cooking up feasts of chicken, sausages, fish and rice. However, the only thing missing from this perfect scene is the dull thud of the swell we have been praying for as it breaks against the shore. On closer inspection of the break, it becomes clear that there are no waves at all. Great!!! Its as flat as a witches tit. We have just paid the most so far for our accomodation (Which is rubbish) and we are forced to stay here for 3 days.
"Barman. Dos Cervezas por favor!!"
After a few beers in a couple of different bars, we quickly decide that the Ecuadorian brew isnt as good as Costa Ricas Imperial. It is however, cheaper, so we make do and sink a few more. At 50p for a large bottle it would be rude not to? As the night moves on, we find the bar that appears to have the most people and settle down for the evening. It is at this point i decide i am bored of watching everyone else salsa, and head out onto the dancefloor to get involved in some of the action. After 5 minutes bumbling my way around the dancefloor, stepping on every toe coming within a 2ft radius of me, i stumble across Pete. Being more intouch with his feminine side than i am, he is already shaking his hips like Ricky Martin. Another 5 minutes goes by of me looking like your dad dancing at a wedding disco and Pete livin la vida loca, when an Ecuadorian lady takes pity on me and decides to show me some moves.
Initially she grabs me as if she is going to lead. I cant cope with the embarasment of having to pretend to be ´the lady´so insist that somehow she must show me how to do it. My spanish ability allows me to find out her name is Lisa, but as she doesnt want to serve me a beer, there is little else my grasp of the language will allow me to ask her. After a while of my dance lesson i was starting to get into it. I dont think what i was doing could actually be classed as salsa, but i had invented my own unique style, which i like to think was much better? Whatever it was i was doing, it felt like i was fitting in and Lisa seemed to be going along with what i was getting her to do. I didnt feel conscious of myself, until i spot Pete on the other side of the dancefloor, flinging his dance partner all over the place, throwing in the occasional spin for good measure. Is that eye liner he´s still wearing? I think to myself.
In the early hours i decide that i am bored of replying with "No entiendo," every time my dance partner tries to ask me a question. I have danced enough salsa for one night. It is now time to go in search of a kebab, or any other suitable form of Ecuadorian late night snack. In this instance the late night snack turned out to be a 2 course meal of soup, chicken, rice and plantaine from a street vendor. Much healthier and very tasty too.
The next morning, sunlight doesnt change what the darkness had partially hid the night before. There are still no waves, so we spend the day enjoying the sun on the beach and wondering around the streets of Atacames. Pete chats to some of the locals and finds out it is possible to surf at this beach, but it doesnt break very often. However, we have no option but to stay or 2 more nights, so i sit it out and kill time. Its a good job i picked up a good book at the airport.
On the morning we are due to leave, i cant get out of the door quick enough. The sooner we are on the bus, the sooner i will be able to surf again. It has been over a week since i last caught a wave and i am starting to feel like a junky going cold turkey in search of my next fix. we are heading to a place called canoa, 7 hours further south. Our research tells us it should be smaller and quieter than Atacames and is a consistant beach break all year round. we strap our boards to the roof of the bus and jump on wondering what treats the locals will try to sell us for breakfast.
Next stop Canoa, and if Huey answers my prayers from the night before..... WAVES!!!!
PS If you havent already checked, have a look at Pete´s blog to hear his side of the story.
http://www.travelpod.com/members/soul_surfista
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Eli
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JAJAJAJAJA
Hola John and the dancing King!!! Jajajjajaaja, those were veryyyy funny letters!!!!! you made me laugh sooo much, sooo funnyyyyy...do me a favour please... DON'T STOP WRITINGGGGGGGGGGG!!! Take care!! (Ah!big swell is coming to San Sebastiann...yeah yeahh!!! upss, considering your surfing chances by now I recon that was pretty cruel from me...jejejejeje ;-) ¡¡¡SUERTE!!!