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Published: April 25th 2019
Yokohama Mama – Japan, April 2019 The city’s name literally means “horizontal beach”, but I have never seen a vertical one and don’t know anyone else who has either. That being said, the explanation makes a little more sense…. its current location was once surrounded by a gulf, divided by a sandbar from the open ocean. This sandbar was the original site of Yokohama, and since the sandbar protruded perpendicularly from the land, or horizontally when viewed from the sea, it was called a "horizontal beach". It’s Japan’s second largest city, population-wise, and despite its humble beginnings as a small fishing village during the feudal era, it is now a major port for the country. Located on the shores of Tokyo Bay on the main island of Honshu, it lies just 18 miles south of the capital.
During the mid-1800’s, Yokohama had little if any contact with foreigners, until a major turning point in Japanese history happened in 1853–54, when Commodore Matthew Perry arrived just south of Yokohama with a fleet of American warships, demanding that Japan open several ports for commerce. The Port of Yokohama officially opened on June 2, 1859 and the village
quickly became the base for foreign trade in Japan. It has a sister-city relationship with San Diego, California but I don’t think that’s exactly what the Commodore had in mind at the time.
Most visitors to Japan think in terms of exploring Tokyo, Kyoto or maybe Osaka and totally overlook Yokohama lying in mighty Tokyo’s shadow, dismissing it as a port town with nothing to offer – nothing could be further from the truth. My entrance to this town may not have the impact of Matthew Perry, but my arrival is perfectly timed for the blooming of the cherry blossoms, which this year opened around March 30
th and will peak in mid-April.
LAX (Los Angeles International) Airport is probably one of my least favorite domestic airports, especially when transiting to international flights, enroute to Asia or the South Pacific. Give me Seattle or Detroit any day of the week, and why this dislike you ask? Well being the dedicated Delta Airlines flyer that I am, my inbound flight from Las Vegas will land at either Terminal 2 or 3, but my connecting flight is out of TBIT (Tom Bradley International Terminal). Finally Delta has
installed the same “jitney” buses as they have at Kennedy in New York, which speeds a passenger over to the international departure gates, eliminating a second security clearance. Thank God for small mercies – that used to drive me nuts and still will, as this is a one-way transit – it doesn’t work in the opposite direction unfortunately! In terminal 2, the buses can be accessed at gate 22A and gate 35P in terminal 3.
It was a super smooth transit for a change when I arrived at LAX, and I was the only passenger on the jitney bus over to gate 130, where my flight to Tokyo departed a couple of hours later. Another uneventful 11-hour flight across the Pacific and I was “feet down” on Japanese soil by midafternoon the next day, with squared-off, dazed eyeballs after watching five new movie releases.
Landing at Hanada International Airport – the one closest to downtown Yokohama - in midafternoon, I endured almost an hour in the Immigration line (along with at least another 500 people) before that precious little visa was stamped in my passport. As many of you know, Japan (Tokyo in particular)
is one of the most expensive places on earth, with airport taxi and private transfer services starting at nose-bleed prices. But a little research time spent online paid off like the proverbial Vegas slot machine: how does a ticket price of 520 yen ($4.64 USD) one way transfer grab you? Operating out of both Hanada and Narita Airports, the Airport Limousine Bus Company, is a dirt-cheap, fast, efficient shuttle service with buses running a set schedule from airport to hotels, train stations and central city locations, using spotlessly clean, air-conditioned and super comfy coaches. Ticket counters staffed with multi-lingual agents and automatic ticket machines are located right inside the Arrivals Terminals or can also be booked online in advance. With cheap ticket in hand, I took the elevator down one floor to the outside departure area and was immediately greeted by a “concierge”, who checked my final destination, placed a tag on my bags and directed me to the correct bus stop, 2 feet away. Within 10 minutes my bus arrived, my luggage was stowed onboard and I sat back to watch the port city and docks speed past the windows. Talk about efficiency – the Japanese have this down
to a science. The very first stop some 20 minutes later was my hotel, and by the time I had stepped down from the coach, my luggage had been retagged by hotel staff and whisked away to my room…. I could get used to this incredible service in a hurry – so far, the only time I actually touched my bags since Las Vegas, were when I was wheeling them out of baggage claim and thru customs on a cart.
Surprise, surprise I’m staying at a Hilton (what else is new?) – this time, the Hilton Tokyo Odaiba – a 15-story building located right on Tokyo Bay, just minutes from popular theme parks, malls, dining and entertainment. The hotel offers easy access to Shinagawa and Ginza as well as cruise ports, major roads and rail lines. It’s also a Tokyo Disney Resort Good Neighbor Hotel, with free daily shuttle service to and from the park. Not sure if I’m up for that but considering how long it’s been since my last visit to a Disney park, anything’s possible.
Again efficiency to the core. Checked into my suite on the 10
th floor in a matter
of minutes and upon entering the room, totally stunned – I couldn’t believe the view. It’s a long room ending with a circular balcony (every room at this hotel has one) with jaw-dropping vistas overlooking Tokyo Bay, the Rainbow Bridge, the entire downtown central Tokyo skyline on the horizon, and the beautiful Odaiba Marine Park walking area along the waterfront. This suite has it all: fabulous bathroom with heated-seat toilet/bidet combination unit, rainfall shower head, jacuzzi bath and plantation shutters, so the incredible view can be enjoyed from the tub. But my all-time favorite in the control unit next to the bed. Not only does it allow me to control all lighting in the room/bathroom/foyer/balcony, set privacy or room cleaning requests, set wakeup alarm and air conditioning temperatures, but also the floor-to-ceiling blackout drapes. The bed is right in front of the balcony and now I don’t even have to get up to open the drapes to greet the dawn – how cool is that? I’m getting lazier by the second.
But as always first things first, which means a hot shower to wash away travel stains of the past 29 hours and fresh clothing. Then its
off to explore the Executive Lounge on the 3
rd floor and see what alcohol they have in stock. Open every day starting at 6:30am when breakfast is served, its followed by afternoon tea at 2:30pm and finally cocktails and canapes around 5:30pm – yep, I’ve died and gone to lounge heaven, and that’s a fact. I was just in time for the C&C and when I spotted champagne on ice next to fresh sushi, shrimp and blackened Cajun chicken, salads, dips and a large cheese platter, I was one happy camper. There is a large indoor seating area, but I needed fresh evening air after my long flights so with flute and plate in hand, I opted for the outdoor patio and grabbed a table giving the same stunning vistas, only 7 floors lower. Dusk was falling, the wind was rising and with temps hovering in the mid 60’s, it was cool and refreshing with the salt brine smell of the nearby Bay. I spent a delightful hour people-watching, taking photographs and chugging chilled champagne before my eyes began to droop…. Morpheus was calling my name.
How does that phrase go, “small things amuse small minds? ”..so
true, my small mind is currently fascinated by Japanese toilets. Note to self, adjust the seat temperature, it’s a mite too warm for this Western butt! I get a quick jolt every time I sit on it, when the deodorizer kicks in, the water circulates in the bowl and I’m playing with the myriad of buttons on the side…. LOL! Too funny.
Adjacent to the Hilton is the large compound shopping center known as Aqua City Odaiba, complete with a Statue of Liberty in front of the entrance. Apparently this is the signature stature for Odaiba and was erected in 1998 – makes me feel right at home. The Shopping zone contains approximately 80 stores side by side with the Gourmet zone, located along the waterfront where a selection of Japanese, Western, Italian and Chinese restaurants, many with outdoor viewing patios, can be had. Considering how expensive the hotel restaurants are, this is where I will enjoy a few lunches and dinners over the coming days. There is also a large-scale cinema complex containing three multi-screening systems "ScreenX" and 4DX, one of the first to be offered in Japan.Arguably its main attraction is a woman by the
name of Chihira Junco. Created by electronic company Toshiba, Junco is the center’s multi-lingual humanistic robotic information guide, ready to answer all questions in Japanese, Chinese, and English. Finally the all-important Aqua City Shinto Shrine, can be visited during a shopping expedition.
After a decent night’s rest in the wonderful Hilton Dream Bed, I’m ready to check out Seascapes, the lobby floor restaurant serving breakfast, lunch and dinner every day. I always have the choice of eating breakfast either in the Executive Lounge or the full service restaurant, and I usually opt for the restaurant – love those multiple buffet item choices. Hitting the drapes button on my new toy (aka control unit), they opened to display an heavy overcast sky and a cooler breeze that last night – rain is definitely on the menu…..that calls for interior hotel exploration and a little more sleep today, before venturing out and introducing myself to Yokohama. Hilton didn’t disappoint in the food arena, I hardly expected it would – breakfast was fabulous. Still a little too chilly to eat outside, I was given a small table by the window, handed a copy of the Japan Times and New York
Times, asked how strong I wanted my carafe of coffee to be brewed, and how would I like my eggs prepared. I’m definitely NOT in an American café! My Eggs Benedict dish hit the spot and I spent a couple of hours drinking perfect coffee, reading the newspapers and watching the world pass by in the hotel lobby – life doesn’t get much better than this.
Weather is proving fantastic every day, and the promised rain never materialized. Mornings are usually somewhat overcast and cool but by midday, brilliant blue skies and sunshine bathes the region. Makes for great photo opportunities. It’s the perfect climate to sit on the outside patio of the lounge reading my Kindle during afternoon tea.
Of course Tokyo has my preferred mode of sightseeing transportation – the HOHO bus – and the two routes cover just about every major tourist attraction available. I’m staying just outside these routing systems but having the Daiba metro train station adjacent to the hotel, makes getting around the city a no-brainer. But (there’s always a “but” with me) before I spend a single yen for sightseeing, I have to check out any and
all free/low cost stuff I can get my hands on. A 10-minute chat with the Concierge gave me exactly that: (1) a free Tokyo Bay Shuttle Bus runs every 20 minutes making 10 stops at hotels and tourist locations in Odaiba. The first one arrives at the Hilton at 11am and I’ll be on it and so will my camera. Takes approximately 40 minutes to complete the circuit, more than enough time to get “the lay of the land”. My new best friend also supplied a floor and gourmet guide to Aqua City Mall…. the place is massive, but at least I won’t get lost. (2) the Odaiba Rainbow Bus which runs every 10 minutes or so from the Hilton, across the bridge and on to Tokyo central, with numerous stops in between. This route is approximately 10 miles long and starts early morning until late at night. One-way fare is 210 yen ($1.88 USD) or a one-day pass for 500 yen ($4.46 USD) – now that’s what I call cheap!
The Rainbow Bridge at 2,625’ connects Odaiba to the rest of Tokyo. It’s a metaphor for crossing the chasm between good (the enforcement of the law)
and evil (murder). But this two-story bridge is as real as the steel used in its construction in 1993. An iconic symbol of the Bay, it is especially beautiful during the nightly illumination. The bridge supports an expressway, a regular road, the Yurikamome train line and pedestrian walkways along both sides. It’s an approximate 30-minute walk across, with benches placed at regular intervals to catch your breath and even glimpse Mount Fuji on a clear day.
A little bit of history: Odaiba is on a man-made island in Tokyo Bay, which originated as a set of small man-made fort islands (Daiba literally means "fort"), built towards the end of the Edo Period (1603-1868) to protect Tokyo against possible attacks from the sea, and specifically in response to the gunboat diplomacy of Commodore Perry. More than a century later, these small islands were joined into larger islands via massive landfills, and Tokyo began a spectacular development project aimed to turn them into a futuristic residential and business district during the extravagant 1980s. But development was critically slowed after the burst of the "bubble economy" in the early 1990s, leaving Odaiba nearly vacant. It was not
until the second half of the 1990s, when several hotels, shopping malls and the Yurikamome elevated train line were opened, that Odaiba developed into one of Tokyo’s most popular tourist attractions with a wide selection of shopping, dining and leisure options. Despite the initial setbacks, several lavish development projects did materialize, including some of Tokyo's boldest architectural creations, such as the Fuji TV Building, Telecom Center and Tokyo Big Sight. Modern city planning provided Odaiba with plenty of green space and a pleasant division of motorized and pedestrian traffic using elevated walkways.
My first sightseeing venture was on the Tokyo Bay Shuttle Bus and it was very soon apparent just how much is packed into this relatively small area.
· The Fuji TV Building, headquarters of one of Japan’s private, nationwide TV stations. Here you will find exhibits on popular programs, purchase Fuji TV souvenirs at the shop and access
the futuristic looking building's observatory deck housed in the sphere-shaped part of the building. Open every day except Mondays from 10am to 6pm, admission is free to the building, but the observation deck is a 550 yen ($4.91 USD) charge.
·
Decks Tokyo Beach is a shopping mall featuring stores, restaurants and multiple indoor theme parks, including the Tokyo Joypolis (reopened in July 2012 after renovations), a Legoland Discovery Center, a Madam Tussauds wax museum and a trick art museum. Open every day with varying hours for stores, restaurant and the theme parks.
· Diver City Tokyo Plaza is a shopping, dining and entertainment complex opened in 2012 and features attractions related to the Gundam anime series, including a large, "life-size" Gundam statue in front of the building and Gundam Base Tokyo, a shop dedicated to plastic models. Open every day, shops 10am to 9pm and restaurants 11am to 11pm.
· Telecom Center is a major hub on the information highway with several large satellite antennas on its observation deck. The observation deck also offers a stunning bay area view and as far as Mount Fuji on clear days. Open every day except Monday, 3 to 9pm weekdays, 11am to 9pm weekends and holidays. Admission is 500 yen ($4.47 USD).
· Museum of Maritime Science looks like a large cruise ship docked along the Odaiba waterfront. The main building with exhibits on
the history and technology of ships and shipping, is currently closed indefinitely. In the meantime, a mini museum has been set up with a portion of the museum collection on display. Outside you can board a real icebreaker ship that is permanently docked next to the museum. Open every day except Monday from 10am to 5pm and admission is free.
· National Museum of Emerging Science and Innovation, aka the Miraikan, this well done, highly interactive and bilingual science museum includes exhibits about environmental issues, robots (starring ASIMO among others), information technology, biology and space exploration. Open every day except Tuesdays and between December 28 to January 1, admission is 650 yen ($5.54 USD).
· Palette Town is a large shopping and entertainment complex consisting of the Venus Fort shopping mall, Toyota Mega Web, a Ferris Wheel, the Zepp Tokyo music venue and Tokyo Leisureland. Hours and admission fees vary for each venue.
· Tokyo Big Sight, aka Tokyo International Exhibition Center, is Japan's largest exhibition and convention center, and one of the bay islands' boldest architectural creations. A wide array of events is held here throughout the year including the
Tokyo International Anime Fair, the Comiket comic fair and the Tokyo Motor Show. Hours and admission fees depend on the specific events.
As this free shuttle runs approximately every 15-20 minutes from 11am to 8pm daily, it’s easily used as a HOHO bus visiting any or all of the above, or simply stay onboard and enjoy the 40-minute circuit. I did both during my stay - you can’t beat the price and it’s possible to get fantastic photos along the way.
I timed my roundtrip ride on the Rainbow Bus to coincide with morning rush hour in the city – people watching locals instead of tourists is always more interesting. We wound our way past Aqua City Mall, Joypolis, Diver City and a maze of high rise apartment buildings in Daiba before starting across the bridge. If only for the spectacular views of Tokyo Bay and surroundings, this ride is worth every yen – you can see for miles – probably the greatest viewing spot, period. I was able to snap some skyline pix before fencing blocked the camera. Once on the other side, I was surprised at how clean everything was: no graffiti
on walls, no trash in the streets and what fallen flower petals and dead leaves did litter the ground, industrious little Japanese women were sweeping them into trash bins as if on a mission from god. The sidewalks were jammed with businessmen making their way into office buildings – I swear they resembled dozens of clones from some sci-fi movie – all dressed in dark suits and ties, white shirts and staring at their mobile phones, as if they had received a text announcing they had won the Publisher’s Clearing House Sweepstakes. This weird scene was only enhanced by the silence of no-one talking, no blaring car horns and certainly no loud music issuing from a vehicle, we weren’t in Kansas anymore, that’s for sure. I felt like the proverbial stranger in a strange land.
For the past week the weather has been exceptional, considering that April is generally the wettest month of the year here. However according to the latest forecasts, that’s all about to change starting today…. rain in the 80% range for the coming week. Good opportunity to spend time over in Aqua City Mall conversing with robots, checking out the food courts and
maybe even catching a movie at the cinema, assuming it isn’t in Japanese. Whenever the weather has cooperated, I’ve spent a lot of time with my Kindle relaxing on the outdoor patio of the Executive Lounge – its really a lovely spot to enjoy a latte or two. The glass wind breaks don’t impede the stunning harbor views, the coffee machine is only steps away, a selection of snacks is always available, and the lounge chairs are super comfy – what more could I possibly want?
Time to put Yokohama in my rear view mirror and start packing my bag. It’s been a fantastic 12 days but I’m ready for the next adventure…..stay tuned…. sayonara (
さようならin Japanese!).
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Iris
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Touring Yokohama Mama Japan
I love your blogs. I feel like I am there with you. It definitely gives me ideas if I ever go to visit the places you have been. You tell us exactly how to get around , what to see, but most o importantly how to save money. Looking forward to your next trip.