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Published: October 7th 2005
Roriama, the begining
The path ahead with Roraima in the distanceWell we left you last as we had just arrived in Santa Elena de Uairen.
Santa Elena is an indigenous (Indian) town not far from the border with Brasil. When you first enter the town it doesnt look much and there are lots of raw Diamond and Gold trading shops and a few brothels but once you scratch the surface you find its a really friendly place. The population is mainly local Indian people but with a large influx of peope at the weekends who work in the nearby Gold and Diamond mines.
There are ridiculous ques at the 2 local petrol stations as people from Brasil cross over the border and que all day and night to take advantage of the petrol at 70 bolivares a litre.
We spent two nights in Santa Elena catching up with Claire and Howard whom we had previously met in Los Roques. We also spent the time preparing ourselves for the 6 day 5 night Mount Roraima trip.
Howard and Claire took us out on the town for an early celebration for Andys birthday. We had a Chinese meal, went to the local pool hall and then to the local
The Wall
On the 3rd day of treking we finally reach the wall. nightclub, which played an interesting mix of salsa, YMCA and hard dance. A little bizare as the locals loved YMCA! The next day we were nursing hangovers because for 25p a beer it is rude not to get drunk!
The morning of the 24th Sept we went to Backpacker tours and met the group for our Roraima trip and sorted our equipment out. Our 2 guides Alex and Marco spoke excellent English as they were Indians from British Guyana. Other than that ther rest of the group were German speakers consisting of 5 germans, 1 Swiss, 1 Austrian.
We were taken in a jeep to the Indian town of Paraitepui which was the start point of our trip the journey took us through and area of open savannah which we were told was where they filmed Jurasic Park. We had a light lunch and chatted to the group which had just returned from their trek, they had a great time but looked like death! We only had to carry our personal belongings,. clothes, sleeping bags and sleeping mats and porters carried the tents and food, however this weighed enough! The porters used locally made woven wicker and reed
Sheffield Wednesday top of the table
Unfortunately just a table top mountain but it´s a start. backpacks to carry the equipment and supplier which didnt look at all confortable, they had shoulder and neck straps and no weight taken by the waist.
The first day was a reletavely easy walk, the thing that was hard to get used to was the heat. We were walking through open Savanah in temperatures of about 90 degrees.
The first camp gave us a full view of Mount Roarima and mount Kukenan we were all excited about climbing roraima and still reletavely fresh from only 4 hours walking on our first day. Although it was still hot as the sun went down we had to don our long sleeved tops and trousers as the Puri Puri flys were out (like scotish midgies) and their bits itch like mad.
After a hearty breakfast we set of walking at a rather relaxed pace at about 9am to the next camp (base camp), again the walk was gentle ups and down as we crossed Rio Cuquenan and the savannah. We stopped and had lunch but there was little shade from the sun. As we sat down the porters started chopping cabbage and carrots and made coleslaw and tuna salad for
Tepuy Kukenan
One of Roriama´s plants with Kukenan in the back ground lunch, nice but a little impractical for lunch on a long hike you would think they would make something a little easier to prepar. Still dont want to complain as the food was nice.
Although we had had a small downpour at the end of the days walking we were all hot and tired from the sun when we arrived at the base camp so a walk down to the river for a bathe was welcomed even if the water was absolutely freezing. We all stood eating our tea and drinking rum and hot chocoalte looking at the now looming size of Roraima ahead of us. We were at only 1500m above sea level and in a distance of 2.5km we had to go up to 2650m above sealevel.
We started our ascent at around 9am entering the cloud forest at the base of the mountain. The ascent was a mixture of walking and scrambling over rocks and tree routes which can be a little dificult with short legs and a large backpack! The cloud forest was welcomed as it gave some shade from the fierce sun. We soon reached the wall of the mountain and standing looking
Roriama frog
A frog that is only found on top of Roriama up from the base to the top was a little daunting. From the wall we had a steep ascent up rocks and scree under small waterfalls and overhanging rock faces. In the cloud forest there were many beautiful flowers and orchids, many of which are unique to the area.
We arrived at the top of Roraima at about 1.30pm and you could instantly feel the temperature change due to the exposed position on the top of the mountain and the altitude. Once on top we walked for around an hour until we reached the camp for the night, El Hotel. El Hotel is basically a sheltered sandy area under a rocky overhang. Looking at the landscape there arent really that many places where you could pitch a tent other than here.
Our tent was pitched at an interesting angle and as such we kept rolling down to one site of the tent, this along with the fact we found a small scorpian next to our tent as we were going to bed meant we didnt have the most relaxing nights sleep!
The next day we investigated the top of the mountain, we visited the crystal vallies, the
Jacuzzi
Looks nice but bloody cold Jacuzzi (small pools) and the egde and the window. At the edge we shuffled on our bellies to the ede and piered over. It made my legs go weak and I wasnt even standing. Unfortunately there was cloud and the we kept having to wait for clear patches to see the surrounding mountains and the ground below.
We returned to the camp for lunch and then set out to the highest point on Roraima. The views were fantastic and as you could see almost the full length of the track we had taken we had a real sense of achievement. Unfortunately dark clouds swept in around us and it started to rain, so we returned to camp for our final night on the top.
The top of the mountain is a strange landscape, not as flat as we imagined it would be. There were massive rocks and boulders many eroded or formed into bizare shapes, wet sandy and marshy areas, there were also inaccesible labrynth areas, valley and pools and again many different small plants and flowers which are unique to the Mountain. There were also carniverous plants such as the Venus fly trap and the Pitcher plant.
The Edge
Carefully does it With the morning came our descent and the longest walking day from the top down to the first camp. The walk was harsh on the knees and legs with large steps down over boulders and tree truncks, in hindsight I think the up was easier than the down! We had lunch at base camp and walked through the baking heat of the savannah to the first camp. There are few birds but many loud singing insects and grasshopers, some oif which had fantastic colours. We reached the first camp at the about 4pm and had a well deserved swim in the river. I also washed my hair for the first time in 5 days which felt great! We also had a welcome suprise at dinner time as we were given 2 beers each and some bottles of red wine with our meal. This was our latest night at going to bed at 9.30pm!
The final day we set off at 8.30am on the final leg of the journey to the start point. With aching legs from the descent the day before and walking through open ground with no relief from the sun the sight of the village at
Hotel Sucre
Not quite the 4 star treatment we´ve come to expect but it was home for a few nights. the start point was welcomed, however from the point of sight it felt like the never ending road!
We arrived at the the start point at 12noon shortly after which the vehicule arrived to pick us up. They had brought a cooler box full of cold beers and soft drinks and us each a chinese takeaway meal! We all were tired from the heat but on driving away and seeing the mountian in the distance we all head a real sense of achievement.
We arrived back in Santa Elena and again went to meet Claire and Howard who kindly let us shower and repack at their place, before a quick pizza for dinner and catching the night bus back to Cuidad Bolivar.
We arrived back at Cuidad Bolvar at 6am and were again picked up and taken back to Posada Cassita, where we spent another night relaxing by the pool and had the luxury of air conditioning. That place is great, cheap, excellent accomodation and food.
After catching the night bus at 10pm last night we arrived in Caracas earlier than expected at 5.30am this morning. Having not really slept due to a rubbish film being
One of the strange Carnivorus Plants found on Roriama
I was expecting plants running around hunting monkeys and instead I got a sticky plant! on until midnight and then a seriously bumpy roller coasted ride we sat in the bus station drinking coffee to wake us up and to wait until it got light outside.
We are now in Altamira in Caracas for the day before flying to Lima in Peru this evening. As Caracas was waking up this Sunday morning we saw a strange sight. In the centre of Altamira one of the main roads was closed and a sound system set up and about 200 people mainly women doing aerobics to pumping hardhouse music. A little strange and especially to say we were sweating like mad just stood watching!
Well I have to say we have really enjoyed Venezuella. It doesnt feel like we have been here a month and the time has flown by. We have found Venezuela a friendly place that is relatively easy to get around and the variation in sight are amazing. There are many places I would still like to visit but we have just run out of time, it is definately somewhere I recommend and somewhere I would return.
Thank you for all the messages and comments we have received, it is nice
That´s not Cricket
A colourfull cricket to hear what is happening at home and also to know that people are reading our journal. Catch up with you all from peru.
Sue & Andy XX
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Sam
non-member comment
well guys Im jealous to say the least looks like youve been having a fab time. I have to say the journal is amazing to read as well- keep it up! andy have a fab birthday - I wont be sending you a card hope you understand!! Take care Samxx