Magical Machu Picchu

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Geo: -13.1628, -72.5158

After a 4.45am breakfast, we headed down to the bus station to attempt to catch the first bus up to the mountains to watch the sunrise. However, as we approached the station, we stared, incredulously. It appeared that the whole of Aguas Calientes had the same idea - we stood in line for over an hour, watching the sky gradually lighten around us (at least there had been no official sunrise to miss) and watched in awe as the clouds swirled around the mountains high above us. Eventually, we managed to board one of the buses, where we were treated to outstanding views of the surrounding peaks which rose dramatically around the road that snaked between them, a steep series of switchbacks with heart stopping drops to one side. Buses careered past us in the opposite direction, squealing their brakes as they thundered around the corners. Thick mist hugged the verdant mountainsides, hanging in the air like smoke. As we neared the top, huge stone blocks peered out through the jungle and swirling fog, giving us our first glimpses of this incredible World Heritage Site.

Eventually, after a stunning half hour ride, we arrived at the entrance, where we were ushered to one of the lower platforms of the upper terraces. There was a collective stunned silence as the beauty of Machu Picch stretched out in front of us - the iconic mountain rising dramatically behind the wonderfully preserved stonework of the ancient buildings. All around us were green peaks, rising majestically into the blue sky, undulating away from us as far as the eye could see. Suddenly, out of nowhere, a thick mist began to rise up from the base of the valley, moving incredibly fast: within seconds, the whole sight before us was covered in an ethereal fog, blocking from view both the ruins and mountains behind. Disappointed, we gazed at the smoky clouds obscuring the wonderful view we had been appreciating, but minutes later, the mist had dissipated, leaving puffs of white clinging to the ruins and the landscape behind it. It was even more beautiful than it had been in full sunlight moments ago, if that was at all possible.

After taking what seemed like thousands of photos, we began our hike to the top of Machu Picchu - the Sun Gate, which is around an hour's walk from Machu Picchu itself. The hike led us higher and higher, some steep steps and even steeper ramps providing a challenge, particularly at almost 3000m above sea level. We passed incredible scenery, the mountains to our right, despite our altitude, looming ever higher above us. Each twist in the path and break in the dense foliage of the area afforded us with incredible views of the ruins, decreasing in size, but not impressiveness, every time we saw them. Frequent stops had to be made to take more photos of Machu Picchu from a different angle and altitude each time. In my travels, I have seen some incredible environments, both completely natural such as Halong Bay and Bryce Canyon, and some where man has added to the beauty of nature, such as Lake Bled, yet this incredible area literally left me speechless. Without the ruins, this place with its vast chasms and soaring peaks is achingly beautiful. With them, it takes on a magical aura, one that really has to be experienced to appreciate. Photos can never do this place justice, although it looks incredible on the snaps we have taken from every possible angle, and as the mist cleared below us it revealed the full beauty of the sprawling complex below.

After a a fairly strenuous climb, we finally reached the highest point of Machu Picchu, the Sun Gate. A small, unremarkable building which marks the last part of the Inca Trail, but provides the most breathtaking view of the surrounding area. Not only are you afforded a bird's eye view of the mountains and ruins, but the full scale of the ancient city can be truly appreciated. Buildings spread out across a huge area, steep terraces carved into the hillside that supports the buildings step downwards, only disappearing out of sight when the vast cloud forest below swallows them up. The sun was blazing, the sky a pure blue, all mist now evaporated. Despite our shaking legs and our pounding hearts, we soon forgot ourselves as we gazed over the edge of the cliff simply enjoying the spirituality and scenery around us.

It was a shorter walk back down, and nowhere near as strenuous as the hike down from the granaries on the previous day, and we were able to enjoy the views as we took our time down the cobbled trail. Once we reached the bottom, our guide took us along the upper terraces, where we were able to get the picture postcard shot of Machu Picchu - mountains, sky and ruins all captured in the iconic image. From here, we traversed several steep staircases, our calf muscles stretching with each step, and reached the entrance, where we were able to get a stamp of Machu Picchu in our passports. We then made our way to the lower terraces, where we were able to take even more pictures. We twisted and turned through ancient corridors, huge stone structures designed with incredible precision to meet astrological events. We saw the curved wall of the Temple of the Sun - one window directly aligned with the Sun Gate, through which the first rays of the sun on December 22nd, the summer solstice, would shine, illuminating a rock in the shape of a puma. Through the other windows, on the same day, constellations believed to represent snakes by the Inca were visible, rising through the windows as night fell.

Each time we emerged from a building or descended a rocky staircase, we were met with another incredible view, another angle from which to view the spectacular site, yet we never grew bored of seeing this wonder of the world. At the very bottom of the ruins, llamas grazed unconcerned on the huge grassy terraces, while tourists ducked and dodged trying to get llama, bricks and mountains into one glorious selfie. We saw the fabulous temple of the condor, steep naturally sloping rocks used to represent the wings, while the head had been carved into e ground. Here two indigenous animals sheltered from the heat of the day - chinchillas, their large ears and tails poking out from the craggy rocks. At all times, we were engrossed in the traditional stories and beautiful architecture. It was so incredible, that we did not want to leave, but sadly, our time was up, and we joined the queue for the buses back down the mountain. The queue snaked all the way around the entrance plaza, so we were able to take in our last glimpses while we waited.

Without the mist, the drive down was, although still beautiful, not as ethereal as our ascent and we soon arrived back in Aguas Calientes, where we sunk, tired, sweaty and dusty into a restaurant, devoured food and then, to our horror, realising that the porters had misunderstood our guide and had left our bags at the restaurant at the bottom of the town, carried our luggage back up the steep hill to the train station. The train journey was as stunning as it had been the previous day. Travelling forwards this time, we were able to see more of the scenery to the opposite side of the train, the rapids of the river to our right rushing past the window. The smoke was once again present on the snow-capped peaks, but this time, it was easy to see the flames licking the side of the mountain, billowing huge white clouds into the sky.

Our bus was waiting for us when we arrived back into Ollantaytambo which we hopped into gratefully, our muscles aching. The drive back to Cusco, gaining elevation all the time was gorgeous. The fading sunlight turned the snow, high on the mountains, gorgeous shades of red and pink, while the local people we passed went about their day to day lives, children smiling and waving to the gringos in the bus as it passed. After a devilishly decadent hot shower, we hit the streets of Cusco, which took on another type of beauty at night. As we crossed the main square, the colonial buildings were lit up from blow, casting their facades into another-worldly glow. The houses lining the hillside were illuminated against its dark face, layer upon layer of twinkling lights that added to the effect of the lights in the plaza.

Dinner was what both I and Ken, one of the members of our tour party, had been looking forward to most. An entire guinea pig, or cuy, was delivered to the table, its mouth wide open in a silent scream, its skin brown and leathery. After photographs being taken, it was removed from the table, and re-delivered moments later, carved into six pieces - mainly corresponding to its body regions - the head, left and right torso, left and right legs and, well, its derrière. Gingerly taking a piece of the cuy, the internal organs clinging to the meaty outer layer, we nibbled on it, leaving the head where it was, none of us daring enough to brave its razor sharp teeth and crispy ears. I can't say that it was a pleasant experience, but an experience all the same. Fortunately, we had also ordered lomo asado - beef in spicy vegetables, mixed up with chips and served with rice. It was delicious.

After enjoying the sights of nighttime Cusco, the air temperature lower than we had experienced for the entire time, requiring gloves and thick coats, we arrived back at our hotel, ready for a sleep after a long, but wonderful day.

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