Cuzco and the Lares Valley

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Arrived in Cuzco having taken a short flight from Arequipa on day 8, 11th October. When we arrived we had an orientation walk with our guide and then had the rest of the day to ourselves. Cuzco turned out to be just as nice as Arequipa except more pollution, so many cars here. As it is such a tourist stop for the Inca trail and Machu Picchu the town is constantly expanding as people move here for work. Spent the afternoon shopping with Andrea, Molly and Jeanette (all aussie, although Molly oringinally from hull). Was really nice, had a few beers in the highest Irish pub in the world (Cuzco is over 3000 metres high) during the day and then back to the hotel for the briefing with our guide for the Lares trek.

It was an early start the next morning as our quide was picking us up at 6.30am. We set off on our way by bus to begin with to a small town to get some supplies, specifically bread for children we would meet along the way. We headed to the bakery which was on a side street and a bread oven hole in the wall. The bread tasted amazing but I was also amazed at how much we got for 5 soles each (approx 1 pound) the bag was full of buns! After wandering around the market and buying a wooly hat we were back on the bus heading to where we would have our lunch before starting the trek. As we pulled up by the side of a river there were children gathering some just loitering as others tended to sheep or alpacas. We had not been stopped for long before the kitchen tent was up, the chef preparing food while the porters set up a table and laid out a bowl of water for each of us with soap and towels to wash our hands......I was already feeling lifted by the whole experience! Before our food was ready Jeanette, one of our group, gave the group of children a football. The oldest child then kicked a ball around with Arnie, Joe and Mollie (she is 66 years old) for about 30mins and then food was served, a 3 course meal.....incredible!

After lunch we set off on our walk to the first camp....it was a hard afternoon, great scenery but tough walking, especially as we were going to 4100m. What made one section even harder was the sole of one of my walking boots coming away at the front, couldnt believe it on the first day of the trek, ahhhh. Jo (62 yr old aussie) came to my rescue and provided a piece of elasticated string to tie round it and it worked perfectly, suppose it is around time I bought some new boots and they had seen me through 7 years and 10 countries! The altitude was tough on everyone but especially Mollie and as soon as we hit camp at 6pm ish we were all ready to go to bed. We were given afternoon tea of pastries, biscuits, tea (coca, puro or camomile), coffee or hot chocolate. Only 1 and half hours before dinner! Another three course meal......by 8.30pm most people were in bed but me and Jeanette stayed up late and headed to bed at 9pm!!! I had a tent to myself and went to bed feeling sufficiently warm, however, having laid in the sleeping bag for a short while I was feeling a bit chilly. Couldnt get warm and therefore couldnt really slepp all night, by 5am felt like I hadnt slept at all although Im sure I did get some sleep.....hard day ahead!

The second day of walking was amazing, we saw lots of local villages and gave out lots of bread, we were welcomed wherever we went. We got to 4600m at the highest point and were walking alongside glaciers and in the snow (although not much and it didnt settle), it was a truely exhilerating day. The walking was tough again but we were able to take out time and really appreciate what we were seeing. We also saw lakes and plenty of alpacas and llamas! Such an adrenlin rush and a huge high being in such an amazing place and not seeing anyother tourists! As we got close to our camp for the night our guide stopped to talked to some of the local people. One of the younger girls gave him some local brew which is apparently very good for you, but he explained that often girls will do this to get a man drunk if they like them. She obviously liked him as she kept giving him more!! Once again everyone was knackered by the time we reached camp so we skipped afternoon tea and had dinner at 7pm. After a long day of trekking most had an early night but a few of us stayed up to play a game or two of cards, winner had chocolate on offer so of course I played! Still in bed by 9.30pm! Slept well that night and was very snug with a few extra layers!

Woke up at 5.30am to a beautiful morning, we had camped at 3400m so slightly warmer! Porridge for breakfast followed by pancakes, amazing! By this time had developed an addiction to Milo and had to have three cups before heading off on the walk! Said goodbye to out porters and chef as they had finished their job for now. My other boot was starting to look a little worse for wear so decided as a precaution to strap it up too. The last day proved to be the easiest so far, mainly down hill but still tough! The scenery was so beautiful, cant find words to discribe it! We offloaded the rest of the bread throughout the day, walking through some amazing scenery, villages, greenery, alongside streams, waterfalls and inca ruins, always heading downwards. We arrived in Ollanraytambo early afternoon for lunch in a local restaurant before getting the train to Aguas Callientes where we were staying the night. All feeling pretty dirty and ready for a shower the train journey was slow as it had to keep stopping for other trains to change tracks but went through some beautiful countryside. We were heading higher again. Once in Aguas Callientes we got a room, a bed, a shower and after a meal in a local restaurant went to bed ready for the earliest start of all going to Machu Picchu the next day. We were all on a high from the trek and at that stage I wasn´t that bothered about going to machu picchu as i felt nothing could top the last three days, the height in altitude, the beautiful scenery, the people (local and tour buddies), the achievement, it all felt so amazing!!!!!!!

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