Lake Shitty-caca, no that s a bit harsh, it was ok.

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After a couple more days in Cusco we headed off on a dodgy tour organised for us by a tour operator. We didn´t really know what was happening, just the we had paid about $200 for buses, accommodation, food, tours and all the rest for 5 days a round Lake Titicaca.

The bus to puno was hillarious - it took about 8 hours with stops on the way and a funny tour guide with a microphone. Evidently guinea pigs are for kicking and cooking - his English was pretty good, but a few mistakes made for hillarity - just wished wed known he was standing right behind us when the entire bus cracked up, poor guy.

Puno is a pretty-ish place on the edge of Lake Titicaca, and the entry point to see the islands that dot the lake, which is massive.

Jumping on the boat we headed for the first stop, Uros - the floating islands. It was such a crock! The islands are man-made from reeds all bunched together, and, while the local people used to use them for a handy fishing pontoon, now its just a big set up for the tourists. Still, it was pretty funny, and we all got into the spirit by buying ugly, overpriced wall hangings.

Next stop was an island where we would spend the night with a "traditional family". Unfortunately, the weather was turning really bad, and a trip that should have taken an hour and a half, took four. The water was so rough, i left my stomach on each wave that came before the next, but it was kind of fun. A few people were really sea sick and everyone was relieved to make it to land.

On the island we were paired with a local person, who we would be staying with for the night. Our girl, Ana, seemed pretty cute, dressed in her sandles, stockings, skirt and colourful bits and bobs. We must have come on a bad day though, and following her up the hill to her house she had a massive domestic with a family member, taking another load of unsuspecting people to her own house. It was so uncomfortable, especially when she started bawling her eyes out!! Keeping our distance, we finally made it to our accommodation. Simple house with an outside toilet (we were lucky to have a mouled toilet seat out of stoney clay stuff).

Ana didnt speak any english, and spanish wasnt her first language, so mix her shitty spanish with our almost lack of any, it was pretty difficult to work out what was going on! We were shown to our room, which was basic, but ok. The mattresses were made of straw, and we tried our hardest not to inspect the bedding too closely, because there were lots of suspicious-looking hairs and dirty bits.

We were fed, which considering the conditions, was pretty good and hung around feeling pretty uncomfortable. I tried to think of it just like we were staying at a bed and breakfast, but it felt a bit more exploitive or something. We met up with the rest of our tourists and offended our tour guide by refusing to walk up a hill (inca trail was still fresh on our minds and feet), so just walk around the island into town until Ana found us a led us back home.

We were told there was going to be a party and after many unsuccessful attempts at trying to find out what time, we had given up on it by about 9 oclock and were starting to think about going to bed. Then we were told it was time to go and to take off our clothes. It was freezing cold, and with much reluctance we got dresses into funny traditional garb. Funny skirts and shirts, that were actually really warm but looked ridiculous. Island people are pretty small, so Sera looked even funnier, because the skirt only came to her knees.

We were led to the community hall and made to dance ring-a-rosy style to the band. It was pretty funny actually, but we were so tired we didnt stay too long.

We left our family with a big tip (trying to make ourselves feelk a little less guilty). It was weird, but hopefully a good way for them to make a bit more money.

Next day, the weather was even worse and the water so rough that we were told if it got too bad we would have to go back to Puno instead of visiting our last island. Half an hour into the ride, fearing for our lives and everyone trying to work out how long we could survive in the cold water (we decided 45minutes, thanks to Seras criuse boat sea training) and which island would be the closest to swim to (the one which the current was heading). Finally the captain decided it was too dangerous and we would have to head back to Puno..... thats until someone mentioned a refund.... suddenly the weather was peachy and we would push on to the island after all. With dagger eyes at our mate who made the fuss about turning around, we did our best to dig our fingernails into the seat and continued the conversation about what would happen if we capsized - does a boat suck you under when it sinks ala Titanic style? (evidently Myth Busters say no).

Safely on land at the other island our rage for our mate who didnt want to turn back subsided, because it was really pretty. we had lunch looking out over the lake and the weather calmed down. After the island it was really clam and a bit sunny, but the boat ride was nice, but painfully slow.

In Puno for another night we caught up with some inca trail mates for dinner. Next day we left for La Paz, Bolivia.

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