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South America » Peru » Puno » Lake Titicaca » Uros Island
November 1st 2006
Published: November 7th 2006
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Well Now

It has been quite a while. We now reckon we have cycled for something like 8-10 days. Covered around 800km and climbed some 4 or 7 thousand meters. Ill get my stats machine for any that are interested.

These trips do tend to be slightly odd. Not the usual experiance that one may expect from folk travelling to these places. If one was to sit back and spend a little consideration as to what the trips actually involved on a real rather than meta level, they'd probably come up with the same reaction as we recieved on arrival to the hostal here last night and that most common from the locals we meet regularly. Which is either 'Why?' or 'Are you nuts?'.

For obviously we spend considerable time cycling, alot on the road, or rather besides, resting and peeling fruit. Much time eating, usually in small concrete boxes with tables and chairs supplied by Coca Cola or another generous multi-national. Sleeping has also ranked amoung one of the most time consuming activities, perhaps more than previous trips. A lot of time is also, atleast by me, spent listening to what I'm told is Spanish and trying to react in such away so that the verbalisor seems content and stops repeating.

In Copacabana it occured to us that are trip is actually the travelling, and when we do regroup with travellers at 'key points' that is our break. In some respects it can often be disappointing to actually arrive at these places, not the initial arrival but the lack of focus once thier. Ofcourse on the otherhand theres likely to be showers, and possibly a choice of food! But it certainly is the transition rather than the position that is what we're all about and thats exactly why, and probably does make us nuts. Dynamic as opposed to the static. One can hold truth the other can only be a particular instance of it, perhaps.

Still we have managed to more or less accidentaly bumped into some sights of great amazment. Firstly we took a boat to the Sun Island or Island of the Sun. Which was pre Incan until the Incas arrived but only stayed briefly. This is where the sun was born before it became a god or the sun. Theres a moon one too that we saw but didnt tread on. A vast terraced herb garden for medicine (and tourists to look at).

We then saw what real is a most remarkable sight, despite its clicheness. The floating Islands. I think 4 hundred years ago some Andeans got fed up with the fighting in and around the shores of lake Titicaca so built some islands out of reads and floated them off shore.

Theres about 60 islands, each lasts 25 years. 1000 people on them that don't particularly fancy broadening thier gene pool, not that I insisted.

On a classic cultural level there wasn't that much between there and here. A duo gringo appearance in a Puno local discotech ended an excellent local cultural experiance that started with other Gringos, one rather large english man ended a little surprised when as he came to pick me up, I did he. And spun him around until he collapsed with my lossening of his grip. He seemed to think I was mad, strange english people.

Some street drinking with some very friendly Punoians, rum and coke I think. Had to be in turn, pass to the right. Only one plastic glass you see.

Lots of churches some very old, some very massive.

Then to yesterday, we have had a fantastic descent (and ascents) into this much more arid of lands. Spectacular changes as we left the altiplano and descend through vast valleys. This last one must have been 140km long. Really stunning. You don't feel quite as mad, once your legs are prept, moving easily, cycling nearly second nature as the scenery passes you by on all sides. Infact you kind of begin to think tose3 in buses, with curtains half drawn and some crap movie on in the front are proabably slightly more half roasted.

Ofcourse we've had 15-20km head winds and some tired seemingly never ending ends. However its been relatively straight forward. The extra time makes all the difference it can be enjoyed not rushed like a fine

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